Edfury828
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2023
- Messages
- 148
Even though I asked the PO of my
MK-III If he had used locktite on the inner intake manifold bolts, and I explained the reason why it is important, and he said that he did, it appears that he did not. They were only finger tight with no indication of locktite on the threads.
So, the moral of my story is, don't believe what people tell you about important things! If only he had been honest, I would've taken care of it right away. Good thing at least that I cought it when I did!
BTW, does anyone know what the "IS" that is cast into the center of the manifold stands for? Maybe the manufacturer?
I also just found that the "through bolts" which hold the left and right sides of my engine case together were so loose that I lost a little over a quart of oil through the gap between the two sides on a 100 mile ride! The bolts nuts and washers are stainless steel with nylock nuts.
I had assumed that those nylock nuts were holding the case securely, and it didn't leak more than an occasional drop which I couldn't find the source of, until the last ride. When I got home the entire back half of the bike including back tire were coated in oil! Once I put wrenches to the bolts I found some were not even finger tight. They are much tighter now, having employed large double box-end (ring spanner) wrenches. The leak is now completely cured.
You might think the nuts need locktite, even though the nylock design should hold, but being stainless, they really should have anti-sieze on the threads... I'm thinking of trying that and keeping an eye on them. The best cure may be to buy a set of stock nuts and bolts, and properly torque them? Of course, they wouldn't be as shiney!
It could be that the PO overlooked tightening the bolts in the first place? The case may have held together due to a (possible) layer of sealant? I've only put about 250 miles on since purchasing, due to it having a few more problems than I've had time for, so it held for the first 150 miles, plus whatever milage he put on it since it was apart for minor (?) overhaul.
Got tired of fighting the old VM36, now awaiting the arrival of a new replacement. Will tune new one with the reccomended (new) parts from the old one.
MK-III If he had used locktite on the inner intake manifold bolts, and I explained the reason why it is important, and he said that he did, it appears that he did not. They were only finger tight with no indication of locktite on the threads.
So, the moral of my story is, don't believe what people tell you about important things! If only he had been honest, I would've taken care of it right away. Good thing at least that I cought it when I did!
BTW, does anyone know what the "IS" that is cast into the center of the manifold stands for? Maybe the manufacturer?
I also just found that the "through bolts" which hold the left and right sides of my engine case together were so loose that I lost a little over a quart of oil through the gap between the two sides on a 100 mile ride! The bolts nuts and washers are stainless steel with nylock nuts.
I had assumed that those nylock nuts were holding the case securely, and it didn't leak more than an occasional drop which I couldn't find the source of, until the last ride. When I got home the entire back half of the bike including back tire were coated in oil! Once I put wrenches to the bolts I found some were not even finger tight. They are much tighter now, having employed large double box-end (ring spanner) wrenches. The leak is now completely cured.
You might think the nuts need locktite, even though the nylock design should hold, but being stainless, they really should have anti-sieze on the threads... I'm thinking of trying that and keeping an eye on them. The best cure may be to buy a set of stock nuts and bolts, and properly torque them? Of course, they wouldn't be as shiney!
It could be that the PO overlooked tightening the bolts in the first place? The case may have held together due to a (possible) layer of sealant? I've only put about 250 miles on since purchasing, due to it having a few more problems than I've had time for, so it held for the first 150 miles, plus whatever milage he put on it since it was apart for minor (?) overhaul.
Got tired of fighting the old VM36, now awaiting the arrival of a new replacement. Will tune new one with the reccomended (new) parts from the old one.
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