Master Cylinder 13mm upgrade exchange

http://www.deluxecycle.com/t-NortonCustom.aspx

Anyone ever deal with these guys? This seems like a good deal. It sounds like it's all assembled and ready to go for 147.00

Certainly much cheaper than anyone else. But I don't know if the other vendors require a core. Best to check.

Have never dealt with them so can't speak first hand.

Other vendors will require a core.

They have been listed in the FAQ section on a Triumph website (along with Raber's, British Only, etc.) - I assume that means they checked out good at some point in time. They have a store front and are listed in California directories. http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vinta ... 7-faq.html

swooshdave said:

Certainly much cheaper than anyone else. But I don't know if the other vendors require a core. Best to check.

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Looks like they require an exchange. I purchased the RGM kit from Clubman Racing and they priced out at $72.50. You then need a milling machine; drill and 18 mm tap to complete the job. After the conversion the brakes work great! I would recommend it, if you want to keep the original switchgear and M/C. Takes a bit of fidgeting to get the air out. Biggest thing is to make sure the vent holes are facing up and the insert is fully seated into the bore.
But this kit is all ready with powder-coated finish. That’s not a bad price.
CNN

Robb2013 said:

http://www.deluxecycle.com/t-NortonCustom.aspx

Anyone ever deal with these guys? This seems like a good deal. It sounds like it's all assembled and ready to go for 147.00

Click to expand...

If u can get them to call I back!!! I called ten times when I wated mine done. Never heard anything. Call Raners! The same guy does all the 13mm jobs. They all contract out to him. Rabers has a good reputation. Ken Armann does too.

SierrasCafe530 said:

Robb2013 said:

http://www.deluxecycle.com/t-NortonCustom.aspx

Anyone ever deal with these guys? This seems like a good deal. It sounds like it's all assembled and ready to go for 147.00

Click to expand...

If u can get them to call I back!!! I called ten times when I wated mine done. Never heard anything. Call Raners! The same guy does all the 13mm jobs. They all contract out to him. Rabers has a good reputation. Ken Armann does too.

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The Price looks good, I paid over $200 for mine with a core exchange, in Canada( I would imagine they all require a core exchange ).
Infact that price seems really cheap :shock: .
like 80 - 100 $ cheaper than everyone else :shock:

I've not dealt with Deluxe Cycle. I used Vintage Brake in Sonora CA for the 13mm resleeve of my MC. I don't think they did an exchange, I sent my MC in, they modified it and sent it back. Quality of work was excellent, it's worked perfectly since installed. Vintage Brake also helped me select the best brake pads for my normal use.

The resleeve is a good mod. Prior to this mod the front brake felt like squeezing a 2X4 and required a lot of pressure to get any braking action. Now it's got plenty of initial bite, a fairly light pull and it's easy to modulate.

mgrant said:

Prior to this mod the front brake felt like squeezing a 2X4 and required a lot of pressure to get any braking action. Now it's got plenty of initial bite, a fairly light pull and it's easy to modulate.

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Nortons early form of Anti lock braking.
CNN

I've been developing my own master cylinder resleeve kit 1/2"
I did one and one of the members here on the forum has been testing it on his MKlll and all seems to be good
I just did another one for my unfinished 72 Interstate , staticly (not riding the bike) it seemed fine , but I could see that the rubber hose was a big problem, I just fitted a stainless hose, WOW what a difference,
now the end of the lever travels no more than 1" toward the handlebar and just stops. the difference in feel is unbelievable.
In time I plan to offer the sleeve down kit and hose assembly , now here is the problem.
I wouldnt mind doing the resleeve but shipping cost to and from my country the Philippines would be the killer.
owners could fit the kit themselves , which basicly consists of loctiting in the new sleeve and drilling 2 small holes in the fitted sleeve , its easy, but my concern is supplying a "do it yourself" kit and the owner stuffing it up and blaming me due to his incompetence.
Hmmm

this is my 1/2" sleeve down setup with piston assembly installed, loctite in, drill 2 small holes and away you go

http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb4 ... DC1789.jpg

Hi Madass140 what is your price shipped to Australia I am willing to take the chance and do a full review on the forum if priced resonable

Kanaka, I am getting a bunch machined which will take a while but in the meantime , I can send you one and you can see how it goes, at the moment I dont have Stainless brake hoses , but I recommend you fit one while you are at it
Don ex Wynnum

sounds good pm you details and I will send $ and my postal address

pm sent

I've now of tested opinion that only real advantage- reason to resleeve is to recover a pitted bore and to get essentially the same performance out of factory Lockheed just requires a new tough hose with or w/o SS braid and remove-open the factory restriction that mimics a drum brake in heat fade. Apparently no one else has tried the full flow stock bore Lockheed but me so who'd believe it could be so cheap and easy. I worry about tire grip now not brake force.

Hobot, so mastercylinder diameter x caliper piston diameter ratio is irrelevant in your book? or do you think that the 5/8 mastercylinder piston is perfect for the Norton caliper? and ALL the 1/2" 13mm resleeves that everyone has been doing for decades are of no benefit?

DAMIRT MAN you just don't understand my extremes nor what matters in real stopping. I am not mis leading anyone and know exactly what I'm talking about here. Everyone confuses lever ease with effective braking but that is just false sense of security. I know the factory set up is very good with my mods and maybe better than moderns as mine have ABS like function in panic stops so slows more predicable and less need of let up for lock up recovery distance lost, only tire traction/surface matters.

Factory ratio is ~17:1, 13mm ~19:1, 12mm ~21:1, race like sports bikes 27:1. RGM lever ups ratio a point or so over Norton lever.

I will never stop beating my wives Ok and so don't put you mis-understanding in my posts -that I said resleeve is not a good thing-. What I do say is its mainly to recover a bad bore and the main thing everyone is claiming as "Better Ratio" is actually the removal of the factory restriction. YES the Main Advantage of Resleeve is not the ratio but that None Of Them Have a Restrictor 'Valve'. So put up or shut up your self until you have tested a red hot nail through the factory pin hole. Yes sir If I was in your place it would be a mood downer to find out for real all the effort and hype is just that concerning higher ratio for girls level grip brake. If you know what you are doing a pilot can out do ABS so main reason for ABS is to avoid over powering into lock up. ABS is not a bad thing either, just nothing I seek for myself, especially on slick conditions the last bike length.

"DAMIRT MAN you just don't understand my extremes nor what matters in real stopping."
No I dont understand your extremes and that is not the topic, but I do understand what matters in real stopping.
I never suggested you were misleading anyone and I'm sure YOU know exactly what YOU are talking about
"I will never stop beating my wives Ok and so don't put you mis-understanding in my posts -that I said resleeve is not a good thing-. " ????
"If you know what you are doing a pilot can out do ABS so main reason for ABS is to avoid over powering into lock up. ABS is not a bad thing either, just nothing I seek for myself, especially on slick conditions the last bike length."
Well ABS was not really in this topic or for any Nortons that I can recall. But I'm pleased to hear you dont need ABS.

All's I'm saying is a red/orange hot 6 penny nail can provides the majority of what we seek to feel less lever effort for better tire braking effect -that prior is always claimed as only being d/t increase ratio of resleeved Lockheed or jumping fence to foreign master cylinders. There's a lot of factory disc brakes out there yet that act like a heat faded drum and is mistaken as over sight in sizing the m/c but can be upgraded very nocticable with the m/c left in place and not even drained beyond hose level. Its a worth while safe mod to know about if bore is still good shape, even if upgrade later planned. I remember hard grip to point of terror trying to slow in need on 2 Combats with the restrictor valve still intact YIKES!. My math my be off on the 12 mm which may be around 23:1.

I salute your efforts creating from about scratch new sliders and disc kit. If it was available prior to my scabbed up Peel brake she'd likely have your kit on front. I looked into dual disc to see that's mainly for less race level heating fade by spreading it out more, w/o much extra tire brake power that matters. Lees spun mass and larger dics leverage implies yours will work a treat with > a warning to creep up on its full potential.

Hobot,

It's a simple mater of physics. The smaller the M/C piston, the more force on the caliper piston. While it is true that the smaller the M/C piston the greater distance it has to move to create the same movement of the caliper piston. I don't know of what restriction you are referring to, but you could have a totally unobstructed M/C with a 1" hose between the M/C and caliper and it won't brake one damn bit better. The only thing that will change is the volume of fluid in the system. The stock Norton M/C is grossly oversized for optimum braking. Even in Arkansas.