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Update after a morning working on the Norton:Electrical issueFixed. It was the contacts/solder joints of the handlebar controls shorting on the shiny new chrome handlebar. The old handlebar was painted in what I guess was non-conductive paint. The solution was to wrap a section of the bar ends in insulation tape prior to refitting the handlebar controls.Clutch nut / push rod adjustmentThe adjustment screw was in too far, touching the push rod. I’ve adjusted it correctly, but can’t find a torque specification for the locking nut. Does anyone know what torque this should be?Primary chain tensionMeasuring deflection up & down I think it’s just over 1/2 inch - so definitely a bit loose. I’ll tighten this but not by much. I’d rather have it too slack than over tight.Stripped stator nutTurned out to be a slightly stripped nut, not the stud. I reversed the nut and was able to torque it ok. New studs and nuts will be ordered this week though, just in case.Stator gapThe search for my feeler gauges continues…
Update after a morning working on the Norton:
Electrical issue
Fixed. It was the contacts/solder joints of the handlebar controls shorting on the shiny new chrome handlebar. The old handlebar was painted in what I guess was non-conductive paint. The solution was to wrap a section of the bar ends in insulation tape prior to refitting the handlebar controls.
Clutch nut / push rod adjustment
The adjustment screw was in too far, touching the push rod. I’ve adjusted it correctly, but can’t find a torque specification for the locking nut. Does anyone know what torque this should be?
Primary chain tension
Measuring deflection up & down I think it’s just over 1/2 inch - so definitely a bit loose. I’ll tighten this but not by much. I’d rather have it too slack than over tight.
Stripped stator nut
Turned out to be a slightly stripped nut, not the stud. I reversed the nut and was able to torque it ok. New studs and nuts will be ordered this week though, just in case.
Stator gap
The search for my feeler gauges continues…