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+1 on opening up the primary, it is not much work and you can make a proper inspection. Check chain tension at several spots, it is possible that due to even slight out of roundness that of either sprocket it can vary considerably. The clutch nut could be loose, the stock tab washer is soft and gets thinner over time and that will make the nut loose. A fix I learned of here is to use a hardened Belleville washer and blue threadlocker. The diaphragm spring needs to be removed to inspect the nut (and clutch plates) but it is easy to make a DIY clutch spring tool. Finally if you do all this be aware that the manual spec of 70 ft-lbs for the clutch nut is excessive and can cause the circlip to break, something like 40 ft-lbs is better. Finally if you do adjust the primary tensIon (by pivoting the gearbox) be aware that this will affect the final drive tension too so check that before you ride your bike...

<blockquote data-quote="bluto" data-source="post: 603713" data-attributes="member: 2337"><p>+1 on opening up the primary, it is not much work and you can make a proper inspection.&nbsp; Check chain tension at several spots, it is possible that due to even slight out of roundness that of either sprocket it can vary considerably.&nbsp; The clutch nut could be loose, the stock tab washer is soft and gets thinner over time and that will make the nut loose.&nbsp; A fix I learned of here is to use a hardened Belleville washer and blue threadlocker.&nbsp; The diaphragm spring needs to be removed to inspect the nut (and clutch plates) but it is easy to make a DIY clutch spring tool.&nbsp; Finally if you do all this be aware that the manual spec of 70 ft-lbs for the clutch nut is excessive and can cause the circlip to break, something like 40 ft-lbs is better.&nbsp; Finally if you do adjust the primary tensIon (by pivoting the gearbox) be aware that this will affect the final drive tension too so check that before you ride your bike...</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="bluto, post: 603713, member: 2337"] +1 on opening up the primary, it is not much work and you can make a proper inspection. Check chain tension at several spots, it is possible that due to even slight out of roundness that of either sprocket it can vary considerably. The clutch nut could be loose, the stock tab washer is soft and gets thinner over time and that will make the nut loose. A fix I learned of here is to use a hardened Belleville washer and blue threadlocker. The diaphragm spring needs to be removed to inspect the nut (and clutch plates) but it is easy to make a DIY clutch spring tool. Finally if you do all this be aware that the manual spec of 70 ft-lbs for the clutch nut is excessive and can cause the circlip to break, something like 40 ft-lbs is better. Finally if you do adjust the primary tensIon (by pivoting the gearbox) be aware that this will affect the final drive tension too so check that before you ride your bike... [/QUOTE]