Hegel said:
Hi Chris,
The bike hasn't been started yet, I put the oil in mostly to see if there was anywhere it'd leak out again. There might be oil sitting in the sump, again, I've got to have a better look @ the w/e. I did get a quick look last night, is definitely leaking out (albeit a very small amount), at where the bottom bolt is. It might well be that all I need to do it an extra nip up...But I'll get some sealant, etc to make doubly sure.
I was more worried about having to pull the lump out again to fix it. But thanks to the above doesn't sound like it, whew!
Actually...When you're prepping for a first start would it be advisable to disconnect a rocker line, kick it through a few times to make sure that the oil is in fact reaching the rockers?
Cheers,
Steve
It would be a good idea to spend £28 with RGM and get an oil pressure guage designed for temporary fit pressure measurement. That will allow you to monitor oil pressue on start up an initial running. Which includes getting a reading on the pressure relief valve setting and the normal running pressures, cold oil and hot oil.
Before starting You should consider pumping some oil into the motor, either via a hand pumping device....to fill the crank and get some up to the rockers....or by getting the bike on some starter rollers.....
You have spend money on a 'professional' rebuild that you will need to get some confidence in, especially now that you don't even have a basic oil tight crankcase seal. Did you ask for recommended start up procedures from the engine builder? or what are his sealant choices? If you are planning poking soe sealant in to one are, will it be compatible with whatever else is around?
If Yamabond or equivalent or Wellseal had been used it really should not leak if it was tightened up properly. If the case mating faces were distorted or damaged the 'professional' should have pointed that out to you. OK, it may be that one of the bolts to the engine plates/mountings is not tight enough, that is in the end down to you, but when the cases were mated in the first place they should have bolts in all holes, evenly tightened and the sealant be allowed to set.
If a bolt tightened by the professional is loose, what else should you worry about!
Next question, do you know what the 'professional' used as assembly paste? and if you need to flush it out of the tank and filter early in the life.
When it does crack up don't let it sit at idle with no oil splashing on cam.....particularly if no assembly paste was used....
(simplest hand pumping device....a syringe, some rubber tube and an old rocker pipe banjo......fits on timing cover or rocker feed at the head.)
I have a set of starter rollers, whereby you can run it for as long as you like to get oil flow before you set fire to fuel ;-)
