Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.

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Madnorton said:
What is the dia of the disc? it looks like the caliper is not sat fully out on the radius of the disc,
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It wouldn't normally [Edit:] be further out but still overhangs the inner.
Edit + Pic.:
Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.
 
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The info I got from the vendor, relayed from Wassell is that it's a problem due to variation in the disc caliper that was 'not consistent' during production, some have radius which is OK but some don't. I don't know myself if this is the case, just passing it on. They will try to get the manufacturer to address it on future batch. At the least they should mention this in their adverts.

I can either return it or Dremel it down a bit (plus the very bottom of the pad tang). I think I'll whip out the Dremel, it appears quite safe to do this. Thanks for the help especially corroboration from Curt13.
 
70's British manufacturing have inconsistent tolerences.......Nah....Couldn't be................ :)
If you look at the HNW picture, it shows the rivets encroaching on the caliper, yet they saw it's a bolt on.
So, maybe it is. Either way, it's a great looking rotor. Should provide good service.
 
MichaelB said:
70's British manufacturing have inconsistent tolerences.......Nah....Couldn't be................ :)
If you look at the HNW picture, it shows the rivets encroaching on the caliper, yet they saw it's a bolt on.
So, maybe it is. Either way, it's a great looking rotor. Should provide good service.
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I've gotten all my vintage bikes to stop very well, to the point where the weak link is tire traction, so here's hoping my streak continues.

I have quality pads and rebuilt calipers with new pistons and will make S/S lines as I've done for my other bikes. I got a master cylinder off a Yamaha scooter with a 1/2" bore. $20 alternative. I may fill in the Yamaha on the cap with JB weld, sand and paint it...

I had a line on an original MC that was part of the front end I purchased, but the owner never found where he stashed it, and sadly passed away. I'd have sleeved it but expensive and my budget's thin.


Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.
 
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Fast Eddie said:
I have limited experience with the company now using the Girling name (we must remember that this is the case and new Firling has no relationship to old Girling).

I bought their calipers and could not get them to work. The seals seemed stronger at retracting the pistons than the lever could overcome, making bleeding impossible. Obviously there is a way as others do use them, but the experience put me off, reinforcing my old fashioned / stubborn snobbery that brakes and braking components are best procured from expert brake / braking component manufacturers.
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It took me three bleed sessions to get one of these calipers to behave itself to an acceptable standard, it's now ok, but if I replace another it will be with a proper AP version.
 
I've been having good luck with an inexpensive pneumatic bleeder. I struggled on a SOHC CB750 years ago, took ages. Now I have another CB and no problems with the tool. Another way I've done is push fluid from caliper at bottom using another spare MC but it's a pain.
 
EstuaryBoy said:
If you want to reverse fill, then chat to your friendly vet about disposable syringes, I have a lifetime's supply now :)
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Oh yeah, forgot I have a bunch of those from a mountain bike set I got. Here's my best brake bleeding story for your pleasure.

I'm underneath rear passenger rear side starting brake bleed on my '72 Fiat 124 Sport Coupe. Wife in driver seat. Calling out down/up as I've done many times with her and others :cool:. Nothing happening. Wait a second, there's this little pinch valve on the Fiat that reduces flow to the rear calipers when the axle moves far away from the body under hard braking. Maybe it's stuck? No, can't be that, I've got the car on ramps so it isn't activated.

After a while fretting and looking at my options, and doing the up/down chant a long while, I ask my wife "show me what you are doing with the pedal." She's pressing the accelerator, ahem.
 
I chanced my arm on one of those 124 coupes many years ago. 1438 twin cam ran like a dream.

MOT tester gave me two A4 pages of 'other faults' !!!!

Nice ornament, mind......
 
EstuaryBoy said:
I chanced my arm on one of those 124 coupes many years ago. 1438 twin cam ran like a dream.

MOT tester gave me two A4 pages of 'other faults' !!!!

Nice ornament, mind......
Click to expand...
I had four of them, all 1608 71 and 72 vintage. Cheap fun in the 80's, put many miles on them and they were quite reliable. No inspection in California.

Wish I had one still. Especially this one, won cleanest and most original at 'Best of France & Italy under 3L' years ago in Van Nuys. It was immaculate, got from a 95 year old Italian fellow who had since new.

Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.
 
I've been looking at this for awhile from this retailer.
www.eurojamb.com

Norton 750 850 Floating Brake Disc Rotor by GIRLING Commando 06-1885 06-6595

NOTE: Norton calipers not all the same during production. Some have an underside radius at the disc slot, some do not. If your caliper has the radius, the disc will fit without mods. If no radius, it will likely need to be machined to clear the float rivets/bobbin assys. New production...
www.eurojamb.com www.eurojamb.com
Note the disclaimer in Blue. Not sure when that was added. First I've seen it.
 
MichaelB said:
I've been looking at this for awhile from this retailer.
www.eurojamb.com

Norton 750 850 Floating Brake Disc Rotor by GIRLING Commando 06-1885 06-6595

NOTE: Norton calipers not all the same during production. Some have an underside radius at the disc slot, some do not. If your caliper has the radius, the disc will fit without mods. If no radius, it will likely need to be machined to clear the float rivets/bobbin assys. New production...
www.eurojamb.com www.eurojamb.com
Note the disclaimer in Blue. Not sure when that was added. First I've seen it.
Click to expand...
I'd imagine today... as he's the one I've been conversing with. He's been excellent to deal with. I was going to suggest it but he took action on his own accord.

BTW I just took a flat file to the area and rounded it off, only took a few minutes. You would have to be nearly under the bike to see it. IF anyone is interested in seeing my hackery I'll post it.
 
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OK I can't help myself, now all the front end is done except making a braided SS line and settling on a tire choice. New 24.93" stanchions and fork internals in the Commando lowers. Spokes laced, it is original Dunlop rider quality MC275 rim. It is NOT dimpled 3x1. I laced it up without any problems, it's true and no hops, correct offset etc. I have done a couple Honda CB750 wheels before, this was tricky but not that bad. Spokes are original and due to budget I just cleaned them and painted with a stainless steel spray paint. I'll touch the spokes up, it was a quickie job as I knew they'd get dinged during assy. Got some rust preventer inside the rim as good measure, it's just light surface corrosion thankfully.

I have a drum WM2 wheel in similar shape, will sell that and quite a few other things soon.

Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.


Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.


Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.
 
gpzkat said:
The info I got from the vendor, relayed from Wassell is that it's a problem due to variation in the disc caliper that was 'not consistent' during production, some have radius which is OK but some don't. I don't know myself if this is the case, just passing it on. They will try to get the manufacturer to address it on future batch. At the least they should mention this in their adverts.
Click to expand...
Not really, looks like Wassel are telling porkies - the calipers are and have always been die cast, casting variation is minimal using a die. They clearly know that as it why they are changing the part design for the next batch - having admitted this then they should replace yours with one from the next batch.
 
MichaelB said:
I've been looking at this for awhile from this retailer.
www.eurojamb.com

Norton 750 850 Floating Brake Disc Rotor by GIRLING Commando 06-1885 06-6595

NOTE: Norton calipers not all the same during production. Some have an underside radius at the disc slot, some do not. If your caliper has the radius, the disc will fit without mods. If no radius, it will likely need to be machined to clear the float rivets/bobbin assys. New production...
www.eurojamb.com www.eurojamb.com
Note the disclaimer in Blue. Not sure when that was added. First I've seen it.
Click to expand...
Just read it, all that drilling and it saves 85grams, truly astounding. I can save twice that easily just by not filling 200cc of fuel. Looks like they made it and then realised it was heavier than standard then gave it a good drilling and machining to get the weight down.
 
i have two OEM calipers if they are die cast product the OEM dies must have been shot in the 1970`s one is rough cast and has the flashing removed with an abrasive wheel
the other has the lower face machined look at the photo posted by LAB this looks like the lower edge of one my calipers no secondary machining has been done but the other one is finished ?
 
Frankie17 said:
i have two OEM calipers if they are die cast product the OEM dies must have been shot in the 1970`s one is rough cast and has the flashing removed with an abrasive wheel
Click to expand...

Most likely sand-cast rather than die-cast as what appears to be a sand-casting finish is visible in areas left unpolished.
Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.


The rough patch in the picture in my previous post could be the casting riser that would have been cut off and only roughly ground as it isn't usually seen.
Is anyone using the Girling floating/slotted brake rotor? Having issues.
 
Back to the OP: I bought two of these from Classic British Spares several months ago for my MKIII, and sent them detailed pictures about having to file a small edge off of the bottom of the caliper. That was the first they had heard of it. Not much of a problem at all, and I like the way they feel. I had a replacement stock front disc on the bike, and always felt it had a slight pulsation I didn't like. Not enough to replace., but enough to jump at the chance to buy these when I first saw them. Not the first time I've had to do a slight mod on a new non-stock part on a bike, won't be the last.
 
Madnorton said:
Just read it, all that drilling and it saves 85grams, truly astounding. I can save twice that easily just by not filling 200cc of fuel. Looks like they made it and then realised it was heavier than standard then gave it a good drilling and machining to get the weight down.
Click to expand...

Yup, didn't make sense to me. I think it's a typo. Alloy, drilled stainless vs cast iron.
Here's another vender listing it at 850 grams.
Sounds more corrrect.
 
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