IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT NORTON FORKS:

IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT NORTON FORKS:
1. Featherbed frames used 3 types of yokes for solos;
(a) 7" stanchion centres, all 26 tpi
(b) 7.3/8" stanchion centres, 26 tpi, introduced in 1964
(c) 7.3/8" stanchion centres, 28 tpi, introduced in 1968
As all the above can be interchanged the year of manufacture can only be used as a guide.

2. Norton/Matchless hybrids of the mid '60's used longer 'Short Roadholder' forks. The main
difference is the fork seal holder, our part no.
3.1968-70 Commando models use featherbed type (c) yokes. These have the column nuts
above the headstock, the later models have one nut under the bottom yoke. Early Commando
models also use FW23, FW24, FW25, FW26.
Please ensure you order the correct steering column nuts, we can supply a screw pitch gauge
to assist with identifying threads. Code is T12,

Thanks for that Bernhard. Got a question, with roadholders, if you fix the front wheel so it can't move side to side, and try to turn the handlebars side to side, how much flex should there be in the forks?

TBolt said:

Got a question, with roadholders, if you fix the front wheel so it can't move side to side, and try to turn the handlebars side to side, how much flex should there be in the forks?

Click to expand...

Not much - with everything clamped up tight.
How much are you seeing ?

That stuff on the yokes should be used in conjunction with a similar list on sliders, and fork tube lengths, and spring lengths
to get everything correct on Roadholder forks - Nortons made at least a dozen different versions, when you tot them all up ?

I'm seeing too much I think, about an inch each way at the end of the bars, and they're short bars. I've tried tightening the top nut and the stanchion clamp nuts in different sequences to get the flex out of it, but no good..
It's got new stanchions, seals and bushes and each fork feels good and new by itself but when it's all clamped together.......... It's flex city.
Maybe someone knows the correct sequence for tightening everything, but I'm sure I've tried every way possible.

Not sure I've even seen a sequence for tightening up the forks.
When you get the front wheel pointing ahead where you want it, tighting up the lower fork clamp nuts
would be the first order of the day, but apart from that I'm not sure it makes any difference.

Can you see if the fork tubes are twisting in the fork yokes at all ?
If they are not solidly locked there, then trouble could follow.
The axle is firmly locked and tightened in the fork sliders... ?
The fork top nuts have pulled the fork tubes solidly up into the top yoke tapers ?

Thanks Rohan, I've been held up, I'll try that on Saturday

Ok, it seems ok now, loosened everything and tightened it up again for the fiftyth time and it still has a slight amount of flex but it is probably meant to be like that, thanks.