Ignition switch fix.

A week ago or so someone posted a link to Mike Taglieris " How to repair a Lucas ignition switch better then new " from the Norton owners club of NSW site, it looked like a good fix & a smart thing to do so as not to get stranded. Of coarse a week later my switch goes bad. Skips & will not connect the "Engine & Lights " position. So now I want to repair mine & read the Taglioni repair agin but would like some more info, picures & to hear from anyone who has done it for tips etc. I did a search but as far as repairing the switch that article is the only thing I found. Has anyone done this & do you have any tips, suggestions or pictures of it in progress? Thanks, Glenn.

I happen to have done it a week ago. It came out great. I took the keyed cylinder out before I took the back plate off..... Do not do that.... there is a ball and spring dentent in there that is a pain to get back in. I encourage you to try it. If I can do it anybody can.

No pics, but I did it some years back.

Don't remember if I took the cylinder out first or not.

Use epoxy that tends ever so slightly to liquid so it fills up the space easily. And I recommend you test a bit to see how it grows/shrinks after setting.

You don't want to underfill and need another pour, and don't overfill too much - will be hell to sand off since this isn't really something you can put a grinding wheel against.

Need some small yet effective clamps to hold the two sheets of fiberboard flat and together as the epoxy between them (I used a thin layer to glue them up) and the epoxy filling in the space around the contacts sets up.

I had a hard time getting the crimp on the metal housing to hold it together tightly when done, but eventually finessed it somehow (can't remember what I went through except to remember it was a pain).

Mine needed solder on the staked blade terminals to smarten up. Full dismantle and clean/lube as well.

The blue/yellow appears to be connected to terminal 3 instead of terminal 4 (the single spade)?
Is there a reason?

i like the idea of leaving the ignition switch on (or jumped) and just hiding a toggle switch somewhere. (easy install, easy remove)

Opening, inspecting, cleaning, and reassembling the switch may do wonders to solve weird engine stuttering!
As mentioned, securely recrimping the case is the hardest part. I used a blunt chisel tip and hammer.

Previously posted:

Now that scares me to think what mine might look like......

Wow that one is realy coroaded. Thanks for the info guys, I have access to several types of epoxy at work or can buy the typical hardware store stuff. I don't see why I can't use my belt/disc sander carefully. I have 220 on it now so it should work to get it started. I won't know until tonight but something may have broken, the key doesn't click at the 2nd stop it just slides over to the last stop. Thanks again for the responses.

concours said:

Mine needed solder on the staked blade terminals to smarten up. Full dismantle and clean/lube as well.

Click to expand...

Only reason is that's how I found it... functionality appears correct. :?: I have: Vertical key position=off, 1 click CW = ignition, 2 clicks CW = ign and headlamp. Park lamp (battery kill) position is inop..

concours said:

Only reason is that's how I found it... functionality appears correct. :?: I have: Vertical key position=off, 1 click CW = ignition, 2 clicks CW = ign and headlamp. Park lamp (battery kill) position is inop..

Click to expand...

There would seem to be something wrong with the switch if the parking light position doesn't work (not that many riders use parking lamps these days) or it's not the correct model switch? Maybe the connecton to T4 doesn't work either?
If the switch was functioning correctly, with the blue/yellow connected to T4, then the headlamp circuit is isolated from the lighting circuit at the parking lights positon.

L.A.B. said:

concours said:

Only reason is that's how I found it... functionality appears correct. :?: I have: Vertical key position=off, 1 click CW = ignition, 2 clicks CW = ign and headlamp. Park lamp (battery kill) position is inop..

Click to expand...

There would seem to be something wrong with the switch if the parking light position doesn't work (not that many riders use parking lamps these days) or it's not the correct model switch? Maybe the connecton to T4 doesn't work either?
If the switch was functioning correctly, with the blue/yellow connected to T4, then the headlamp circuit is isolated from the lighting circuit at the parking lights positon.

Click to expand...

I'll give it some wringing out after the fall.. too busy RIDIN now! :mrgreen: