How to stop steel tank from rusting, while sitting?

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interstateOz

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Hi all, Ive got a steel roadster tank with minor surface rust on the inside which im going to remove by using molasses and water and leaving it sit for a few days. After the surface rust is gone im going to have the tank sitting, not in use for a little while, whats the best way to stop the rust from happening again? I was thinking i could spray it with WD-40 or will this affect it later when i put fuel in it?

Thanks!
 
Slosh some diesel fuel in it. It's thick enougt to leave a coating, but washes away easily with gasoline. Also works good on boat motors to flush the oil system. Engine makes quite a clatter with it. But has enough lubricating propereties to not do dammage for short low rpm runs.
 
Stuff it full with "long "oily rags, should last about 100 years! easly fished out after with a wire hook...but make them nice and LOOOOOOOONG :!: otherwise you could leave a bit in. :oops:
 
Silica desiccant packages like come with electronic devices work very well. Hang them inside the tank so they are not laying against a metal surface and then seal the tank. It will keep the tank shiny and new inside for many years. Jim
 
A clever trick for your friends you don't care for is to drop a small rag in their tank, which floats about to start and get aways from home, then settles on a drain to stall out like carb trouble, but once stopped it floats off again, to repeat in cycles till someone goes bonkers or gets bonked.

There are oil vapor impregnated packets used for gun, instrument and tool storage that could be dropped in and just shaken out and also packets of Si-oxide that absorb humidity that should work w/o leaving lint or mystery clogs.

In my case I used a good layer of caswell 2 part booze 'resistant' epoxy after a phos acid wash and nuts-chains shaking - so far 1 yr fueled and 3 dry - its clean and clear.

Its been rain forest stormy humid here this season - which reminds me of a local southern joke...
What's a divorce and tornado got in common?






Someone is gonna lose a trailer...
 
I have one hanging on my shop wall that was derusted using the vinegar method prescribed here by some. I just fogged it heavily with D-40 and hung it on the wall with the cap open. WD-40 will not harm the gasoline that later goes in the tank, heck it can be used as starting fluid. Or to rephrase, I have used it a lot on carbs and other items without ill effect.

You can buy fogging oil. It is most commonly used in outboard motors that are put up for the winter. They smoke badly when first started but the gas removes the oil film. It is stickier than WD-40 and while it would be harder to make sure you got it everywhere inside it would stay put. Two-stroke oil is sticky enough to cling to the walls also. You could pour it in tumble the tank and dump out excess. I will probably recoat my tank with two-stroke oil if it continues to sit for a prolonged period.


Russ
 
hobot said:
Its been rain forest stormy humid here this season - which reminds me of a local southern joke...
What's a divorce and tornado got in common?






Someone is gonna lose a trailer...
Click to expand...

Might be funnier except for all the corpses in your neck of the woods...
 
hobot - i never really thought about Caswell lining a steel tank mmmmm.... i guess it would protect it.



I guess it all depends on how long its gonna be sitting to what method one uses, thanks all for the responses youve all helped heaps yet again :)
 
I'm wondering, just wondering, if it is worrying about that much.
I have 2 tanks on 2 bikes that are nearly 60 years old. Still good.
I have an interstate tank in the loft that hasn't been used since 1982, still good. (yes it is a steel one)
Maybe you could just slosh a bit of engine oil in it.
Would never line it, bound to start coming off one day.
 
I've heard this stuff works pretty good. I think someone may have posted this on an earlier three so I can't take credit for finding it. I have seen it in a lot of auto parts stores and even walmart so it shouldn't be hard to find. Just mix the amount it says into your fuel and it should eliminate the water in the tank so it doesn't rust. I don't know if you have the tank on your bike, but I think you may need to keep fuel in the tank for this to work. If your tank isn't on your bike you probably don't want to keep gas in it.

It's the red stuff on the link, if you scroll down a bit, there's some blue stuff that looks like it would work too.

http://www.goldeagle.com/mobile/products/stabil.aspx

Hope that helps - maybe it won't,
Matt
 
About the only gasoline additive that is used to take up moisture/water is Alcohol.
At some point Alcohol or gasoline or diesel or oil is water condenses enough to form a liquid layer that O2 and OH- species can exit to oxidize surface. Not good idea for a bunch of other reasons not to store a fueled tank.

As to the Caswell's on steel, if the tank is already nicely rusted then even better after a phos acid nuts/chain cut back to stable layer, it will have very good bite and adhesion to the epoxy and will likely be as permanent as mankind creations can be. It boring to keep it turning so even thick layer sets up every where but once should do it.

On all the other methods you must repeat em at some point depending on storage conditions. Best preservative I know of short of SS.
 
Flo said:
Would never line it, bound to start coming off one day.
Click to expand...

Lining it is a gamble but I have to say I lined my daily-driver Triumph TR4A fuel tank thirteen years ago and it's as good as the day I lined it. That being said, I'd never put it in my Interstate tank! :)
 
Does any one know what size thread/bolt will fit into a petcock/fuel tap hole in a tank? i went to the local bolt shop today and they didnt have anything that would fit, i was surprised as they have everything, i thought?
 
A good tip to clean out moisture in fuel tank is to pour methylated spirits(cup full) into it when nearly empty. The meths mixes with water then blends into fuel and all gets burnt on the next run!
 
Diesel will collect water in the bottom same as will trying to store something in engine oil w/o supporting it off the bottom. Diesel will grow algae and form a yuky gel at some point and the additives to delay this are toxic to people and pets and gardens and sewers.

Heated melted cosmoline or real lanolin, now that will preserve it and still be solvent easy removal.
 
The tap holes are 1/4-19 BSP, I know because I just purchased a tap and die this week. Does anyone have interest in purchasing a pair of plugs for the tap holes.
 
I used wood dowels or tree twig I whittle down to a bit over size then grease a bit and work into tap threads until a bit proud of the inside. Epoxy don't stick to it but covers right up to the metal lips.
 
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