hello from newbie and need tech help please!!

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sharon piquet

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hello all from north east Ohio.......i am a new member in hopes of getting some advice for my hubby. please.....he is working on his 1973 norton 850 trying to remove powe unit from frame...engine is out swinging arm and rear wheel out...only parts remaining is gear box hanging on rear isolastic mount..can't get rear isolastic stud out. have tried soaking penatrating oil under rubber boots, vibrating stud with air hammer, used a 2 pound brass hammer....it still hasn't moved. would love any suggestions. thank you very much for any assistance. looking forward to checking out this forum....looks very interesting.

slotsmama/sharon :P
 
use the nut as a puller on one side buy adding washers as spacers. stack washers until you have about half inch of thread left. put on nut and tighten until stud moves and you run out of thread. remove nut and add more washers or spacers and repete until stud is out. if this does not work the other choice is a hacksaw and cut the stud between the iso and frame.

windy
 
Bill can you show a link to the oil report you told me about. Witch ones have zinc still? MAYBE A NEW THREAD.
 
Greg,
Interesting you asked this. I just happened to find this chart.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

The zinc is found in the additive zinc dialkyldithiophosphate which is also the source of phosphorus which is regulated by the government because it shortens the life of the catalytic converters. I started looking into this because I am running Mobil 1 4T synthetic motorcycle oil in my R1100RS which has a converter. From the chart, I see this has the highest level of phosphorus :cry: but correspondingly the highest level of zinc :D
 
I am afraid to tell you that the safe haven of Diesel Engine Oil muti-grade has also passed sorry..
There are very few cheap oils with Zinc anymore. The list is short and it could get worse.
Ed O had sent out the warning a month ago.
Windy (50cal Bill) Had found good info.
Sorrry for the thread hijack.
 
if any one is interested e mail me at windyae@earthlink.net and i will send you what i have. it came from turbo diesel registry. it was done buy a retired oil engener who was given blind samples of the anlyasys.

windy
 
When I stripped my Commando 2 years ago, I too found the stud locked solid in the rear isoastic mount. I never tried the nut with washers method suggested by bill, but I could not move it at all, much to my disbelief, even tapping it with a lump hammer! Yes I confess :oops:

So I had to hacksaw it off in the end as suggested also by bill. I cut the stud by sawing between the end cap and isolastic adjusting collar (the gap where the ptfe washer sits) after backing off the adjuster as far as I could. I still managed to damage the above vernier adjuster despite trying to cut down the "gap" that the ptfe washer sits in.

Good luck.
 
the trouble with trying to drive it out with a hammer is the stud is rubber mounted :roll: DUUHH so all it will do is bounce in the rubber.

windy
 
need tech. help

Hi Sharon, I used a modified slide hammer to remove a seized ISO stud on my '74 850, a threaded sleeve attached to the slide hammer, then threaded onto the end of the stud, a few good hits and the stud began to pull out, once free it moved easily.I'm in NE Ohio too.
Good luck. James.
 
You might try double nutting one end of stud, then use an inpact gun to try and break free. Another Buckeye near Y-town !
 
Thanks so much for advice everyone. Report from husband is..... used washer method and a heavy slide hammer and it has moved still working on it.....the washer method worked for him the hammer didn't. Will let you know how it goes today. Great meeting all you! We are closeby in Newton Falls. Have an amazing day! :P
 
Congratulations ! All you've got to do now is put it back together again.

Commandos can be harder to dismantle than other British bikes because the rest of them shake themselves apart :)

I recommend thoroughly greasing all the metal parts with Copper grease on reassembly. It will make future dismantling a pleasure. Of course, at this stage you're thinking that you'll never have to do it again but most of us know better :shock:
 
glad you got it apart without having to cut it. like said grease it REAL good on assembly. DO NOT use petroleum grease on the rubber parts. there is a special rubber grease or I use dielectric grease.

windy
 
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