Hard Starting

It has been a very long time since I have visited this Forum. Too Long. I am having a hard start problem with my '73 - 750. It has a single Mikuni and Boyer ignition. At one time is was a one kick start, every time. Now, it is becoming too damned hard to start. I have installed a new battery, charging it fully. I keep it connected to a Battery Tender to maintain charge. Even so, it is a BEAST to start, and my brand new, store bought titanium and ceramic hip tires of it far too quickly. I have connected to a larger battery charger when kicking, and it starts great. I am wondering if I need a larger battery. If anyone has any suggestions on what I can do to make starting easier, I will greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in Advance,

Steve

pull the carb off and spray cleaner through the passages etc

sounds like idle circuit is plugged, which happens to mik's if not ran frequently

How old is the fuel?
Cheers, Martin

If your bike starts well when you have it hooked to a charger but not when running off the battery it does mean that your battery is no good. The boyer needs about 9 volts to work. If it is lower it won't work. It is true that if you leave a bike sitting for 4 months with fuel in the float bowl that the idle jet may plug up. Mikunis are worse for this than other carburetors. I find that normally to clean the jet a very fine wire is required. If you drain your carb and tank during storage this won't happen.

Sometimes after a bike has been sitting for too long the first start is hard. There can be a little bit of rust on the valves that reduces the sealing. If it was really damp the rings can stick. Also sometimes the plugs get damp. I often heat them up with a propane torch. Heat the tip until the side electrode is red and try to get the heat right down around the porcelain.

Sometimes engines get hard to start also when the valve clearance diminishes to nothing. This happens to some engines more than others. It is caused by the valves and seats wearing. It is normal, and it is the reason why the valve clearance needs to be checked.

I wondered where you had disappeared to. Probably having too much fun down there. If I did not have ticklers on my Amals the frigging thing would never start. I cannot imagine starting up otherwise.

Check there is the same voltage at the Boyer as at the battery there may be a bad connection or wire somewhere that has failed slowly over time. Also check Boyer and coils for correct voltage and resistance reading. A couple of years back I parked up my fully working first kick hot or two at most if cold bike for winter then live got on the way (as it does its so inconsiderate) 18 months layer intermittent weak sparks an none starting. The coils and Boyer where both shot even though they where ok when last used. They where both 30 plus years old so I guess it was miracle they last so long all rest of bikes electric system was new so fitted new ones an all is good again hopefully.

aceaceca said:

I wondered where you had disappeared to. Probably having too much fun down there. If I did not have ticklers on my Amals the frigging thing would never start. I cannot imagine starting up otherwise.

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Been having some crappy health issues. Had to have some parts replaced and some re-plumbing done on the bod. A bit over a year later I am nearly feeling well enough to ride Ole Snort again.

sportsroof said:

How old is the fuel?
Cheers, Martin

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Fuel is bout 6 months old. I only use the premium unleaded, with out ethanol. I also use Sta-Bil marine formula as well as a lead additive and octane boost with every fill up. (not that it matters)

I would without a doubt put fresh feel and it during the float bowl to make sure that it's fresh all the way through. Modern feel goes bad very quickly even if it's not ethanol. By the way I love that Metalflake blue gas tank in your avatar.