Getting the Matchless on the road

grandpaul

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Cool old bike with a 4-year gap!

Sounds like something might be "hanging up" on the clutch actuation, then popping into place at the end of the lever release.
 

OzT

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It's almost like I am one plate short grandpaul, but I am not. Was fine before but no idea now. I am 99% sure I have the adjustment correct but something obviously not right.

will work on it, when it gets cooler! Too hot in the garage at the mo!
 
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Check that the clutch pushrod can operate smoothly in both directions. ?

Nortons reportedly drilled the mainshaft from both ends, and they don't always meet neatly in the middle.
This can cause the clutch pushrod to bend in operation, and may cause binding.
The solution may be to cut the pushrod into 2 or 3 bits, and harden the cut ends.
May cause a bit of trouble extracting them, if needed...

Could be your cable action going overcentre though, check carefully ?
Didn't Nortons (AMC) alter this to improve this ?
 
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With regard to inner tube failures- the tyres should have higher pressures than the values in the old handbook. Tyres are different nowadays.
 

grandpaul

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If you are going to cut your clutch pushrod, make sure to use a ball bearing in between the 2 segments.
 
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Question on the bars: how tall are you?
Im not very so I prefer low flat bars and always have.
Tall bars seem to make bikes a bit squirrelly steering-wise.

Nice bike. Do thinks correctly so you dont have to walk home.
 

N0rt0nelectr@

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OzT said:
cheers John for that, so it seems 30 years ago when I junked the half width hub for the (better looking) full width hub I actually did the right thing? No both front and back are 19 inch wheels, the stays were what I could find to put the new stainless guards on.

Going to have a bash at the SR1 mag. It was working before I put the bike away and it is really quite simple I think, just a bunch of copper wires going round a magnet and a coil in there. Heck if MacGyver can make a radio receiver/transmitter from nothing more than a match box, bits of copper wire and a Swiss army penknife sure I can take the mag apart and maybe see something wrong?
Or not....

Never know if you don't give it a bash I reckon!

I'm going to leave the piston in the barrel. the cylinder has no rust, still a film of oil, and I think the rings will be ok. I haven't got a ring compressor and putting the barrel back on has always been a case of balancing it on thumbs of two hands while I push the rings closed one at a time with a small screwdriver, bugger when it comes to the cords oil rings! I know the big end's solid, went to the local engineering shop before I put it together last time to push the pin out and the bearings were good. after taking the head off and realized I didn't need to is holding me back from pulling the barrel up. Though I have a nagging wee bloke sitting on my shoulder, think he's called common sense, that I should just lift the barrel off to have a look.

This week I'm going to make sure the wiring's ok with the battery on. one reason I rather stick with the mag, no worries about having a good battery to start!
The SR1 mag is almost bullet proof. External condenser easy to get to points sweet.I have one on my 55 AJS 18s. Just hook up a plug to the plug wire and give it a kick, it might just surprise you. The wiring is as simple as it can be, which makes life a lot easier.

John in Texas
 

N0rt0nelectr@

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I picked up a 63 G80 in June and as I slowly work out its issues. Needed to flush the oil tank but didn't have access to a parts washer. Picked up some "Super Clean" at Walmart comes in a 1 gal jug in the automotive area. It is a non petroleum based cleaner / degreaser. Took the small pump out of my wife's table top fountain, set it in a plastic tub and filled up the tank. let it run for several hours moving the hose from opening to opening, feed, return, vent that sort of thing. Make sure you wear rubber gloves as that stuff will take the natural oils right out of your skin. The tank is clean and the paint is still good.
John in Texas
 

OzT

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Hi guys, bile been running well last couple of months, since the puncture I have had usual teething problems but all fixed.

Until this one. Last couple of days bike had oil all over the head after a fast (well 70mph) run, discovered now it came from that hole in the photo in the rocker box. that is the other end of the oil feed into the rocker, between those 2 dabs of red hermitite.

Anyway, never really noticed that hole before, but guess it's from drilling the oil feed gallery to the valves. Now when I rev it oil comes out.

Has anyone got a rocker box handy they can have a look for me please? I suppose there was a plug there originally, but whet did it look like? don;t think there's threading in that hole but was it a plug into the hole or was it a plate?

I have googled the net intensively, looked at many pictures of rocker boxes, looked at manuals online but no mention of pluging that hole. I

If no one has any ideas think I will just glue a plate over it to stop oil coming out, and also to keep the pressure I guess to keep the valves lubed!

many thanks guys!

cheers

Ed
 
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I tried to load a pic from flickr but no luck (haven't figured out how to yet!). I happen to have a 63 cylinder head on my dining room table so it was easy to check. That hole on my rockerbox is plugged with a dark charcoal looking stuff. HTH
https://i.imgur.com/jmm73HF.jpg
 

OzT

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May 15, 2013
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Thanks triumph2, I remember now, it was just plugged! I'll find something to plug that with.

thanks again!

Cheers

Ed

ps and I'm sure a 63 cylinder head makes an excellent table decoration for any occasion :)

pps I've stuck a flat bit of alloy over it with adhesive, will take a picture later and stick it up. Hope it works. It may be a metering screw for the inlet valve for all I know, just don't remember seeing anything there before, cept a plugged hole. If it's dry next week will take it for a ride see if that did the trick and report back.
 
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I must have had the same problem with the '61. That hole is gooped with the orange high temp silicone sealant on mine. The oil metering screw for the inlet valve is on the right side - on the head itself not the rocker box.

Russ
 
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