Getting new wheels, choosing correct size

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Regardless of the technical term for the wheel rims I don't think fullauto would be advocating their use if there wasn't something in it
Where would be the point!!??
 
kommando said:
When you buy a WM4 rim its a 2.5 MT rim, the difference between WM and MT is the addition of 2 humps, hardly something to get all in a tis about as the tyre still fits and the bead is held more positively.
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Not so. These rims differ in more than the additional humps. ISO 4249-3 requires shoulders and the central part to differ substantially.

You may chose between either a 19-2.5 ISO 4249-3 _or_ a 19-MT2.5 ISO 4249-3. If you want a "WM type" rim you'd choose the former, which is a cylindrical bead seat rim; when you buy a MT-rim you get a tapered bead seat rim featuring a flat between the shoulders, the rim being optimised for tubeless tires. These are vastly different rims!

I suggest everyone should exercise caution when proposing a deviation from the tire manufacturer's recommendations as to which rim a specific tyre is to be fitted to. Remember, this is a vital safety item, so please follow the tire manufacturer's requirements.

-Knut
 
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Mountains out of humps

Rim Information
WMO 1.50
WM1 1.60
WM2 1.85
WM3 2.15
 
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The featherbed Manx originally had 19 inch WM2 on the front and WM3 on the rear. Commandos probably had 19 inch WM3 on the front and WM4 or WM3 on the rear ? When you fit a bigger rear tyre on the rear than the front one, you create the situation where the wheels never align properly, so the handling can feel slightly stiffer as you crank the bike over going into corners. Fullauto probably has it right.
On the Seeley, I use 18 inch WM3 on the front and WM4 on the rear, however the steering is already very quick, so any stiffness due to the difference in tyre sizes goes un-noticed.
 
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