Gas cap won't close

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Robb2013

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I just got my tank back from the painter and fitted the new gas cap. As hard as I push down the little latch won't tuck under the lip on the filler cap. I was wondering if anyone's had this problem and how they rectified it.

Gas cap won't close
 
Ever heard of C.R.C. , or a drop of oil . :P

If its tight on the pin , or sticky , either end .?
Mechanisms shouldnt bind. Seal should jam in one posn. free / squigly , under thumbs .

So they say . :?
 
Does the spring work? If it does, then I would think something is between the cap and the inner plate. Make sure the inner seal plate moves freely up and down.
 
Are you sure that your new replacement cap is not the problem? You might try putting on the old one and see if that fits.
Maybe the pivot hole is drilled wrong.Just a thought.
YING
 
Hey Rob,

Your picture shows me the toggle on the cap, is too long and fouling on the top the tank, so that it does not sneak under the tank flange. I would think it is okay to carefully file of the toggle a little until it clears. Is this correct or is the photo not showing the details properly?

Regards Richard
 
The cap and the tank are both aftermarket. I originally bought both off of one of the guys from India that's selling them on Ebay. I had to send the tank back because it was such low quality, I was going to have to literally cover it with bondo and totally reshape it. I then drove up to Kenosha and bought this tank from T.C. Christianson, not wanting to waste another hundred on return shipping if the next Indian tank was also flawed. It ended up, TC's gets his tanks from the same aftermarket manufacturer in India. His were much higher quality though. Maybe the one I got from ebay was from the reject bin or something. So, it's hard to say whether the cap is wrong or if it's the filler lip on the tank. I'm afraid to file on that piece on the cap because it appears to me to be too short to begin with. It's almost as if the hole in the cap was drilled too far forward. You can see in the picture that the cap never really seats properly and sits on the filler at a slight angle. It would help a lot if someone could take a picture of their cap seating properly from the same vantage point that I did. Having a proper fit to compare to might help determine whether it's the cap or filler neck at fault.
 
This is an original roadster tank from a '75 MKlll (just look at all the rust) anyway hope these help. Cj
Gas cap won't close

Gas cap won't close

Gas cap won't close

Gas cap won't close
 
When I bought my tank I fitted the cap I was going to use. I found that bending the lip on the tank would allow the catch on the cap to engage the lock. Then neck on mine is shorter than the stock one. It is not a perfect fit but then again none of the aftermarket tanks are.
 
Since your photo shows the front of the cap tilted up relative to the filler neck the pin hole may be drilled too low or the rubber seal is projecting down too far. Any chance that can be adjusted up.
If the toggle is close instead of filing toggle you may want to consider filing the lip bottom edge up a slight amount.
If you do this I'd want to confirm the rubber seal is still sealing all round.
 
Hmmm, another aftermarket thing to think about when buying a tank. Maybe should get one with the cap included?

Thanks for the heads up.

Dave
69S
 
I'd be thinking about pusing the pin back out, pressing the cap down firmly on the tank until it latches and look to see if the holes line up. Or for that matter whether the latch works without the pin.

Russ
 
I've been out of town for a few days but wanted to thank everyone for their replies. Just a couple comments... I'm pretty sure that the seal is not the problem. I took some copper wire and wrapped it around the axle of the seal so it would be raised up a quarter of an inch or so and it didn't effect anything. I guess I need to decide whether the hole in the cap is wrong or the hole in the tank rim. Damn I wish I had kept my old cap when i sold my stock tank.
 
I have a couple of stock caps. I would want it back but if you send me your address I would drop one in the mail for comparison.

Here is what I would do. I would drive out the pin and push the cap down until it latches and check hole alignment. I would do the same with another cap to check alignment. If both caps give the same view I would take a small round file and work on the hole in the tank until the pin will pass. If you could get a drop of JB Weld on the part of the hole left open after the cap is in place it would keep the pin from moving when you open the cap. If the two caps show that yours is the problem, I would source another cap or file the one you have with the knowledge that once the chrome is scored you may suffer corrosion in that spot.

Russ
 
rvich said:
I have a couple of stock caps. I would want it back but if you send me your address I would drop one in the mail for comparison.

Here is what I would do. I would drive out the pin and push the cap down until it latches and check hole alignment. I would do the same with another cap to check alignment. If both caps give the same view I would take a small round file and work on the hole in the tank until the pin will pass. If you could get a drop of JB Weld on the part of the hole left open after the cap is in place it would keep the pin from moving when you open the cap. If the two caps show that yours is the problem, I would source another cap or file the one you have with the knowledge that once the chrome is scored you may suffer corrosion in that spot.

Russ
Click to expand...

I decided to give that a try this morning. Took out the pin and positioned the latch in place under the lock on the tank filler. I was expecting the holes to be off but they were balls on. So I took the dremel to the inner lip on the cap and ground off a few thousands. It fits now, will actually snap in place sometimes, but usually I'll have to push down on the latch for it to tuck in properly. I expect this might improve as things break in a bit. Good point to watch for corrosion in the areas where the chrome was ground. At any rate, it works... one more problem solved. Now on to the carbs. They've been sitting for several years at best. Any suggestions on what to do with them? Was thinking of just giving them a good cleaning and see how they work, and if problems, do a complete rebuild on them. I kind of like the idea of not messing with them because they were probably balanced last time the bike was running.
 
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