Front wheel observation

I am getting ready to put some new shoes on old RedHot.

Taking a close look at the orientation of the front wheel with a different mind set and after inquiring about clearance, I notice that the wheel and tire is 10mm closer to the left slider than the right. What ever the offset is, I do not think that the wheels should be in this position. This is telling me the my offset is and has been 3/8 off to the left.

Another indicator is the when checking wheel alignment, the real need to come forward on the right side in relation to the adjusters on the left. Although I run fairly well with out wobble, I can never seem to get it to where I can pull my hand off the bar without leaning to the right to compinsate.

I am sure my bitsa must have had a re lacing at some point in it's past.

Does anyone have a comment on the position of my front wheel.

Please notice the relationship to the slider and not the fender brace which of course is not a true indicator.

pvisseriii said:

Taking a close look at the orientation of the front wheel with a different mind set and after inquiring about clearance, I notice that the wheel and tire is 10mm closer to the left slider than the right. What ever the offset is, I do not think that the wheels should be in this position. This is telling me the my offset is and has been 3/8 off to the left.

Click to expand...

Yes, the clearance on either side should be approximately equal.

Just measured mine. '72 750 with disc front. 9mm on the disc side, 7mm on the other side tire to the middle fender stay. 100/90-19 Avon AM26 tire.

Just measured mine Pete.
From the bulge at the top of the sliders, to the steel rim is aprox 30mm on each side.
Give or take a mm.
AC.

It's my opinion, opinion, from what ludwig said (as I remember) the front wheel should be centered between the sliders. You may want to check the parallelness of the sliders to the wheel too. The forks can shift it one way or the other. I think ludwig used a piece of glass to effect this measurement if you care to search for it.

If you feel competent to play with the spokes, you can loosen one side and tighten the other side equal amounts and move the wheel (rim) one way or the other. I did it when rebuilding my drum brake wheels and everything turned out centered. Seems to run true.

Dave
69S

Bear in mind that if you have 10mm more on one side than the other, the wheel is only 5mm off centre. You may consider removing the mudguard (fender to you guys) and measuring the distance from the fork legs to the centre of the tyre. That's quite simple on a tyre with a straight groove in the middle like a TT100 (unless you've worn it away!!) The disc brake front wheels are very difficult to adjust because to accomodate the disc the spokes on that side have almost no dish.
I centred mine by turning the spacer down to move the wheel towards the right (disc on the right) my disc is now about 0.010" away from the fork leg.

The Stays Bent . .

Pay to triple check measurements , before proceeding .Identify cause . Possibly just ' Trueing over ' Not Respokeing .

For the sake of 5mm you should take a close look at the bearing spacer and shield. Mine is a disc brake front and I made up some spacers out of stainless, not sure of the type used in the drum front, but you should be able to spin something up on a lathe. If the wheel has been re laced the off set could be off a little?
Are the rims original do you think?

Cheers Richard

I would measure the rim, not the tire.

swooshdave said:

I would measure the rim, not the tire.

Click to expand...

Thanks Dave.

I rechecked from the rim to slider.
Drive side 1", timing side 1 3/8".

When re- spoking the new rims, I will take 3/16 from the brake side.

As mentioned tire should eye ball in center of forks and as hub is centered in forks by the factory spaces then suspect spoke/rim issue. To lace up the front disc brake rim requires the disc side two rows of spoke essentially be completely tightened and aligned straight to rim with rim sucked way too far over rotor side Then start on the other side and draw it back to center in forks. Its the hardest wheel to do so easiest to do just good enough.

Would be very educational if a riding report exists on this offset front both with and w/o hands on bars. Rear rim is often 3/8" to LH of center w/o any sense in handling issues. Don't know if matters at front in that range or more. Not something to aim for of course but something to lessen the concern till time to take it on.

hobot said:

As mentioned tire should eye ball in center of forks and as hub is centered in forks by the factory spaces then suspect spoke/rim issue. To lace up the front disc brake rim requires the disc side two rows of spoke essentially be completely tightened and aligned straight to rim with rim sucked way too far over rotor side Then start on the other side and draw it back to center in forks. Its the hardest wheel to do so easiest to do just good enough.

Would be very educational if a riding report exists on this offset front both with and w/o hands on bars. Rear rim is often 3/8" to LH of center w/o any sense in handling issues. Don't know if matters at front in that range or more. Not something to aim for of course but something to lessen the concern till time to take it on.

Click to expand...

I could ride with no hand but I needed to lean to one side compensate. I am sure that when I get the new rims in and right, I'll be riding true.

Thanks to everyone for your input and advice.
I will do a little photo shoot of the process later this winter.

You may reduce the need to lean to L but d/t crown of road and off set of power plant don't expect to balance centered to bike for long w/o drifting out of lane. My sports bike tends to do same as Cdo's- drift left w/o some compensating body English and its got none of the claimed commando reasons for this ie: rigid centered mass chassis to front brakes.