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Sorry for the all caps I wasn't shouting just can't stop the word program from a old preset.

THERE WERE THREE GUYS WORKING ON THIS KIT. WE TALKED AND LOOKED,

AND LOOKED SOME MORE.

FIRST STAGE, STRIP DOWN FORKS TO ONE

FORK STANCHION, ONE SLIDER, ONE STEEL BUSHING WITH CLIP TO RETAIN,

ONE HIGH HAT BUSH, ONE SEAL AND ONE SEAL RETAINER ASSEMBLE DRY

AT THIS POINT. CHECK TRAVEL, GOT SIX INCHES PLUS WITH NO DAMPENER TUBE,

VALVE, ROD OR SPRINGS.

OK SECOND STAGE, ADD STOCK DAMPENER TUBE

WITH VALVE SUPPORTING ROD, TUBE CAP, SPRING, STOCK SPACER, JAM NUT.

NO FORK CAP NUTS OR FLUID SO WHEN YOU SLIDE THIS BACK AND

FORTH THE SPRING ASSEMBLIES ARE COMING IN AND OUT OF THE TOP OF

THE FORK STANCHIONS TOPS. THE TRAVEL WAS FOUR AND ONE HALF INCHES.


NOTE THAT IN THIS STATE THE SPRINGS ARE LOADED AGAINST THE TOP OF

THE DAMPENER TUBE CAP AND ARE TRAPPED BY THE JAM NUTS AND THE

SPACER ON THE OTHER END SO THE DAMPENER VALVE IS TIGHT UP TO THE CAP.

UNTIL THE BIKE IS FULL ASSEMBLED WITH THE DAMPENER ROD JAM NUT

TIGHT TO THE FORK CAPS AND THE WEIGHT OF THE RIDER IS FELT THE

VALVE IS ALWAYS GOING TO STAY THERE UP AGAINST THE CAP.


THE STOCK LENGTH OF THE ROD IS LIMITING THE DISTANCE THE

SLIDERS CAN MOVE. DO THE SAME TEST WITH TWO INCH LONGER RODS AND

AN EXTRA SET OF SPRINGS FOR PRELOAD AND YOU GET BACK THE

SIX INCHES OF MOVEMENT. THE TRUE LIMIT, THE MAX TO BE HAD,

IS WHEN THE TOP OF THE STEEL BUSHING HITS THE BOTTOM OF THE

HIGH HAT.

NOW YOU DON'T WANT TO RIDE THE BIKE IN THIS STATE WITH

THE TWO BUSHES TIGHT TO ONE ANOTHER THERE'S JUST NOT ENOUGH

SUPPORT AND THE FRONT TIRE WILL BOUNCE BACK AND FORTH AT

STOP LIGHTS. SO WE CAME UP WITH THE TWO INCH LONGER MODIFICATION

FOR THE ONE AND ONE HALF INCHES OF TRAVEL GAIN SO THAT UNDER

NO CIRCUMSTANCES COULD THE DAMPENER VALVE BE USED

TO LIMIT THE TRAVEL FOR THIS WE WANTED A FLUID STOP AND NOT A ONE AND

ONE HALF LONG LOOSE FITTING BUSHING BETWEEN THE TWO

BUSHINGS ALREADY IN THE FRONT END LIKE THE COVENANT KIT HAS.


THE SPRINGS THAT COME WITH THE KIT ARE FROM FORD TRACTORS AND ARE

THE SAME O.D. AND I.D. AS NORTON AND PROGRESSIVE SPRINGS.

THEY START WITH A TWO AND NINE SIXTEENTHS FREE LENGTH AND HAVE

HAVE A BOUND LENGTH OF ONE AND NINE SIXTEENTHS FOR ONE INCH OF TRAVEL

. FROM WHAT WE KNOW THE STOCKS SPRINGS HAVE ONE HALF OF AN INCH TO GO WITH

THE SLIDER BOTTOMED OUT, THAT IS THE BOTTOM OF THE STANCHION HITS

THE BOTTOM OF THE SLIDER. WE ADD ONE AND ONE HALF OF TRAVEL

WITH LONGER RODS AND THE EXTRA SPRING ADDS ONE INCH AND

THE OLD SPRINGS HAD ONE HALF INCH TO GO SO THE SPRINGS SHOULD

BOTTOM OUT JUST AS THE FORK STANCHIONS DO.

NOW FOR THE FLUID CONTROL

IF THINGS WERE IDEAL ONE WOULD HAVE FULL MOVEMENT WITH HYDRAULIC

STOPS AT EACH END THAT IS NICE AND SLOW ACTING RIGHT AT THE

ENDS OF TRAVEL. THE BEST WE HAVE COME UP WITH SO FAR

IS USING ATF FOR FLUID AND LEAK PROOF BRAND SEALS IT WORKS

ON FIFTY BIKES SO FAR WITH NO ADJUSTMENTS NEEDED NOT

THAT THERE ARE NO ADJUSTMENTS. I HAVE ONE BIKE WITH STOCK SPRINGS

AND ONE WITH PROGRESSIVE SPRINGS AND I HAVE TO SAY

THAT I FIND THE PROGRESSIVE BETTER BUT THE STOCK SPRINGS WORK

WELL TOO.

ON THE CENTER STANDS THESE MODIFIED BIKES DON'T

LIFT THE WHEELS OF THE GROUND ANY MORE BUT STILL WORK FOR ME.

THE IDEA IS TO GET THE BIKE TO GO DOWN FROM YOUR WEIGHT

AT LEAST ONE AND ONE HALF INCHES. THAN RIDE AROUND WITH FOUR

AND ONE HALF POTENTIAL INCHES FOR BUMPS AND THE

ONE AND ONE HALF FOR POT HOLES. NORBSA

I also have another way to get the same effect without raising the Bike. It uses one inch shorter legs and a one inch longer dampener rod and a different set of springs still get the full 6 inches travel and fluid stops but goes better for the vertically challenged and center stand unsteadiness. If your running a disk brake you may need to make a new bracket and hard line but I also offer this kit.  

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