Fork Stops

swooshdave · Oct 30, 2011

How can I adjust the fork stops so they don't hit the instruments?

I was thinking of expoxying some pads on, but I don't think that will work.

Or just be careful when turning?

rvich · Oct 30, 2011

How much larger does the stop need to be? I would probably drill and tap the stop on the yoke for a small machine screw so that it was adjustable.

Russ

swooshdave · Oct 30, 2011

rvich said:
How much larger does the stop need to be? I would probably drill and tap the stop on the yoke for a small machine screw so that it was adjustable.

Russ

I thought of that, but I need almost .5in, and I'm trying to get away with not taking the front end apart, although that is an option as it's going to be raining here until May. :mrgreen:

Hobot · Oct 30, 2011

Huh must be one of those drag bar fashion slaves to foul the clocks but regardless I've had success gluing on tire case side wall or conveyor belt pads on the sides of the stem tab on my modern but was too much a range limiter on C'do tabs so had welder dab a beads on it I ground back to just miss bars/hands fouling tank. Clocks position might be fudged but then tends to crimp the cable drives

I had mine welded after a ride to welder and just moved stuff aside and put some foil around stuff to protect from the spattering. Its a tight fit for wire welder but he got it down well enough and who looks in that close but your self to know you cheated and failed as a Norton mechanic and had to resort to bodges : (
Once I rode Trixie to welder to weld whole tab back on after a deer strike, ugly and hard to grind back with the stuff around it but a labor saver fix that's held up now on one slow speed drop peg pogo'd swing around test in avatar.

rvich · Oct 30, 2011

It should be pretty easy to drill and tap into the yoke just inside of the stop tab. You could then thread in a bolt and use the head as the stop. It wouldn't be adjustable but it would be removable.

Russ

swooshdave · Oct 30, 2011

rvich said:
It should be pretty easy to drill and tap into the yoke just inside of the stop tab. You could then thread in a bolt and use the head as the stop. It wouldn't be adjustable but it would be removable.

Russ

That's how they are on my Pursang, but they are hardened pins, just a hole, not threaded. They are also asymmetrical so that you can adjust the steering stop. Pretty slick.

Hobot · Oct 30, 2011

The trouble with threaded adjuster is nothing at all til the first bonk on a car bumper or a drop, then try to removed with threads jammed up and end of adjuster proud of the yoke bent ever so slightly enough to blacksmith it in place. BTW all the threads of a hole don't bare the loads so how lucky ya feel ...

swooshdave · Oct 30, 2011

hobot said:
The trouble with threaded adjuster is nothing at all til the first bonk on a car bumper or a drop, then try to removed with threads jammed up and end of adjuster proud of the yoke bent ever so slightly enough to blacksmith it in place. BTW all the threads of a hole don't bare the loads so how lucky ya feel ...

Good call.

Jeff W · Oct 30, 2011

Mine hits the tach also (no speedo). I just moved the tach to clutch side for more throw and run it the way it is. I have Ceriani forks & trees with no stops at all. Really not a problem as they only hit when I'm trying to park.

swooshdave · Oct 30, 2011

Jeff W said:
Mine hits the tach also (no speedo). I just moved the tach to clutch side for more throw and run it the way it is. I have Ceriani forks & trees with no stops at all. Really not a problem as they only hit when I'm trying to park.

I'm not overly concerning about the fork stops, just interested on how or if people approached the issue.

splatt · Oct 31, 2011

I had to tack a 3mm packer on one side of the tang to stop the bars hitting Interstate tank, how about a piece of 1/4'' steel flat folded over nice and tight, or machined so it was a knock on fit over existing tang, it should stay there for normal use, a misshap may dislodge it, paint up before fitting , minimal disruption

swooshdave · Oct 31, 2011

splatt said:
I had to tack a 3mm packer on one side of the tang to stop the bars hitting Interstate tank, how about a piece of 1/4'' steel flat folded over nice and tight, or machined so it was a knock on fit over existing tang, it should stay there for normal use, a misshap may dislodge it, paint up before fitting , minimal disruption

Those are great ideas, I'll post a picture later so you can see how far I need to make up.

swooshdave · Nov 2, 2011

So you can see on this side it's a good 1/2 inch.

bwolfie · Nov 2, 2011

You could drill and tap the face of each fork stop on the lower tree and use a long setscrew and jamb nut. They would be replacable and adjustable.

swooshdave · Nov 2, 2011

bwolfie said:
You could drill and tap the face of each fork stop on the lower tree and use a long setscrew and jamb nut. They would be replacable and adjustable.

That was one of my ideas. I'm trying to see if I can get away without too much surgery.

Matt Spencer · Nov 2, 2011

Would you fit a 3 mm steel plate in between the lower triple clamp & the frame neck ? .
The clamp steering damper lower plate / lockstop type arrangement , or in under there .

RennieK · Nov 2, 2011

I had some of these but I can't find them for the photo. Bolt goes through the hole in the triple clamp and you weld a little bar on the head of the bolt. Excuse my art work but you can get the idea.

swooshdave · Nov 3, 2011

RennieK said:
I had some of these but I can't find them for the photo. Bolt goes through the hole in the triple clamp and you weld a little bar on the head of the bolt. Excuse my art work but you can get the idea.

Brilliant! Is that what you used on your bike?

Carbonfibre · Nov 3, 2011

Very very easy to sort this problem out. Firstly work out how much will need to be added to the stop to avoid contact, then obtain a small block of steel of the right dimensions, mill a slot into it to fit over the steering stop on frame, drill a small hole through the slotted area, fit it over the frame stop and drill the frame the same size, then secure it with a roll pin. It can then very easily be put back to standard, and if the additional stop is painted black it will look orginal.

Hobot · Nov 3, 2011

From what I learned going down on Ms Peel's alloy yoke fork stops, ie: depending on the shear and bend tolerance of bolt top stops, I'd HIGHLY Recommend - Don't Do It that way but just JBW steel tabs on the stem tab or on cast iron yoke bumpers. Next Ms Peel will use the old bolt holes but not as a single bolt back up but to double up holding a steel bumper plate down with robust stops milled out.

Fork Stops

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