Engine/gearbox craddle isolastic bolt removal? (2010)

interstateOz said:

And are rubber boots available any where too?

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You can get all the Iso parts from MODAK in 299 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne City. Call them first, as its a bastard of place to park. Tel: 9602 1229

Or, try Union Jack in Ivanhoe, its closer to you but he works by appointment only:Tel 9499 6428, Email: unionjack@unionjack.com.au - Its more of Triumph shop.

Mick

L.A.B. said:

dave M said:

I beleive all of the isolastic kits probably come from the same source ie, Andover Norton.

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The vernier Isolastic kits were never offered as a "factory" upgrade as far as I'm aware.

The vernier kits originated from various Norton parts suppliers such as Norvil Motorcycles and Mick Hemmings etc. who manufactured and sold their own versions of the kit, and still do as far as I know.

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I have no first hand experience with the vernier isolastics, but I'm pretty sure they were standard on the MkIII. Mick Hemmings started selling a type that didn't require the front isolastic tube to be machined some years ago, it was designed by an American and worked a little differently than the traditional vernier isolastics. The kind that Norvil, Fair Spares, etc. sold required one end of the front isolastic tube to be machined 1/4". They may sell a type that doesn't require this as well by now.

If you continually do your wear adjustment on one side only via the vernier adjustment you will affect your wheel alignment, but I'd assume you could pull off the mount and put a shim on the opposite side every so often, to equalize the clearances, similar to what you do with the shimmed type mounts.

-Eric

Rang Modak no luck out of stock and he said there $500+ , spoke to union jack he said they dong stock much norton stuff mainly triumph besides ur norton Lucas and Boyer gear, il stick with the overseas suppliers they've always been cheaper so far and well organized, thanks though!

Interstate,

My opinion:

It's better to deal direct with the companies in the UK, the Australian suppliers are buying from the same people, freight from the UK is not too bad. A funny story about this, when I purchased a set of pistons for the BSA, Draganfly sent me JP pistons (made in Adelaide, SA), They were cheaper from the UK than direct from JP, go figure.

NZ, high prices and high freight.

US, reasonable prices generally, horrendously high freight prices ( prohibitive IMHO ).

Get what you want now, US shipping is going up again in january- I think jan 11

ewgoforth said:

L.A.B. said:

dave M said:

I beleive all of the isolastic kits probably come from the same source ie, Andover Norton.

Click to expand...

The vernier Isolastic kits were never offered as a "factory" upgrade as far as I'm aware.

The vernier kits originated from various Norton parts suppliers such as Norvil Motorcycles and Mick Hemmings etc. who manufactured and sold their own versions of the kit, and still do as far as I know.

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I have no first hand experience with the vernier isolastics, but I'm pretty sure they were standard on the MkIII.

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Yes, the 850 MkIII models certainly had vernier Isolastics as standard. The MkIII front Iso. tube is shorter, so it should be possible to fit a complete MkIII front Iso. assembly to an earlier model Commando.

Back a couple of issues ago in the INOA newsletter Bertrand did an indepth Iso story . His article broke down all the possibilites or varibles you would encounter in trying to get an Iso set-up perfect. He points out a lot differences between your bike & mine as to how far off some frames are and the different size Iso housings that are out there. To get your own Iso set-up perfect you'd have to be a machinist and good with a caliper.
Only to discover your bike still shakes the beegeezus out of you and you wouldn't notice any improvement.
Join the INOA today !


Tim_S

You need a bigger hammer.

$325 to your door for the stainless kits (not incl. mount tube end plates or through-bolt hardware) if you'd like a set.

The through-stud for the rear is like $15 (approx)

Josh Cox said:

Extremely hard to remove is somewhat of an understatment.

I pulled mine down a couple of weeks ago, rip off the rubber boots, cut the shafts off with a grinder or hacksaw as close as you can and drive through the shortest end of the bolt with a punch.

Do not use heat, the rubber will melt and make it even more difficult, WD40 or Lanox will help nicely.

All my photos, enjoy: http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n229 ... 0Commando/

Josh, Cairns, 0428 241 105

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Thanks for this information. I'm down to the frozen bolt for the rear isolastic mount and the frozen steering head through bolt for my teardown. I'll get to work cutting the bolt and bullying it out with a mallet tomorrow.

I just pulled my rear isolastic through stud using a stack of tubing spacers, a few washers, a plain nut and an air wrench. You can only pull a bit more than an inch at a time because of thread length, but it worked a treat. Could do it with a strongarm or ratchet, too, I suspect but it'd be a lot more like work.