Easy and cheap modifications I would do again

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seattle##gs

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I installed a TriSpark ignition (not cheap) .... not a performance gain but gives an idle that can't be beat.

" " JS exhaust inserts for a noticeable gain in power....no jetting required.

" " Thunder Products torque wing in the single Mikuni for an improvement I could feel. Again, no jetting required. It looks gimmicky but really works.

" " approx 3 or 4 oz of Redline Shockproof oil in the trans, mixed with standard gearbox oil. It shifts better through 1st-neutral-2nd and an overall
improvement. I tried it with 2 other people with the same favorable results.

" " TriFlow down the clutch cable every 3 months. It really is easy to apply using the eye-dropper bottle and only takes a few minutes. Much easier action
and the cable has lasted for years.
 
The biggest performance gain I achieved with my Seeley 850, was due to close ratio gears with higher overall gearing. I was dumb - I bought a 6 speed TTI box, when all I needed to do was fit the Commando first gear into the Manx cluster. Once the bike is rolling, it never goes below 2nd gear, unless it is stationary. Just rev it a bit further in first.
 
Torque wing. I assume a single wing would suffice for a single carb? Website asks for number of cylinders, not sure if they are assuming 1 carb per cylinder? Or special wing for 2 cylinder engine? OR I am an idiot.
Worth the $100? Seems pricey.
 
NPeteN said:
Torque wing. I assume a single wing would suffice for a single carb? Website asks for number of cylinders, not sure if they are assuming 1 carb per cylinder? Or special wing for 2 cylinder engine? OR I am an idiot.
Worth the $100? Seems pricey.
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It fits inside the carburetor so it takes 1 torque wing. It does seem pricey but if you can feel the improvement for only $100 it's a bargain.
 
seattle##gs said:
I installed a TriSpark ignition (not cheap) .... not a performance gain but gives an idle that can't be beat.

" " JS exhaust inserts for a noticeable gain in power....no jetting required.

" " Thunder Products torque wing in the single Mikuni for an improvement I could feel. Again, no jetting required. It looks gimmicky but really works.

" " approx 3 or 4 oz of Redline Shockproof oil in the trans, mixed with standard gearbox oil. It shifts better through 1st-neutral-2nd and an overall
improvement. I tried it with 2 other people with the same favorable results.

" " TriFlow down the clutch cable every 3 months. It really is easy to apply using the eye-dropper bottle and only takes a few minutes. Much easier action
and the cable has lasted for years.
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The anti kickback feature of Tri Spark makes it worth the investment IMO. Safeguards e starts and ankles !
 
robs ss said:
I gather those inserts just make the exhaust port "D" shaped just like the Fullauto head has?
No??
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They make the port smaller at the exit and D shape. They are not the same as the STS head exhaust port. They had the opposite immediate effect on my 750 Norton engine performance. I think they might be as bolt on good as members claim with closer to stock 850 engines using small Amals and stock exhaust.

Edit: Tuning would have been required. More tuning time than I wanted to put into an engine that runs perfectly without them. I don't think they got along with my accelerator pump. So feel free to ignore a non harmonious response.
 
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o0norton0o said:
I think I could start a related thread, "Expensive and hard modifications that I might not have done had I known better" 🤣
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Only time I think like this is during the winter when I can't/won't ride a bike that has way too much "why?" done too it.

I have a garage full of stuff that didn't work that well on one vehicle or another. Some of it from the OEM factory.
 
Can you put the JS reed valve breather on a 1970 case right at the elbow and have it work properly without doing any mods like drilling a hole in the timing chest and keeping the breather disc, the one behind the left cam bushing in place
 
Peter Restaino said:
Can you put the JS reed valve breather on a 1970 case right at the elbow and have it work properly without doing any mods like drilling a hole in the timing chest and keeping the breather disc, the one behind the left cam bushing in place
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No, you can keep the timed breather in place as that should, at low revs, enhance the reed valve but as the engine revs increase it becomes less effective as it is really too small. So you need another route for the reed breather and the sump mount won't work with the frame crossmember in place on the 70 frame so that leaves the timing case or a less effective one using a rocker cover. The rocker cover is a long distance from the pulses so less effective but at least spare rocker covers are easy to come by.
 
What about if I make the stationary disc of the breather bigger like dremmeling on it or drilling on it. I dont want to have to pull the the bushing out to remove it. Thanks for the reply btw
 
If you are going in that far then remove the disc completely by access from the camshaft and put the reed valve in the tube, anything else is a bodge. Coming at the disc from the 90 degree tube is only going to mess the breather timing up and risk swarf getting into the engine.
 
The cases are apart. I heard it was a bitch removing the bushing so I thought maybe making it bigger by drilling on it. Also do you really need to make a timing chest mod or can you leave it stock.
 


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