Dragging clutch?

I have a cNw e-start with belt drive and a dry primary. Lately I've been experiencing a few issues that I believe are related:

1) Accelerate in first gear, back off on the throttle, and pull in the clutch for shifting to second. It feels like the engine is pulling back, like the clutch isn't disengaged. Only happens in 1st.
2) Clunking / grinding while downshifting to first. It's always done that, but lately it's annoyingly loud. I can feel it in the shift lever.
3) Difficulty finding neutral with engine running.

I have a Barnett clutch, with the cNw clutch rod seal.

Is this classic symptoms of gear oil on the clutch plates? I would think (hope) that the CRS would prevent that.

No...I have a chain drive/oil in primary and have never needed to "clean" the clutch plates. The symptoms you describe are that of a clutch not completely disengaging. Assuming nothing has actually failed, I suspect a slight adjustment in the clutch assembly and or clutch cable is all that is necessary.

Gear oil contamination on a Norton clutch in a wet clutch environment can make the clutch difficult to free up when stone cold. They don't drag much fully warmed up with a little gear oil in the mix, but it doesn't help at all. Hence, the introduction of the aftermarket clutch rod seal. I would imagine gear oil on what is supposed to be a dry clutch would not improve the operation of the clutch.

If you are going to adjust the clutch, do it as if you just did a clutch install. Back all the adjusters off and start over. If that doesn't help, take the primary cover off and take a look at what is going on in there.

Sounds like the typical "notched" clutch hub issue... but Barnett plates shouldn't do that...
The only other thing that I can think is the belt is too tight...

+1 on the tight belt suggestion.

Do you have dual adjusters?

cliffa said:

+1 on the tight belt suggestion.

Do you have dual adjusters?

Click to expand...

Belt tension is fine. Yes I have dual adjusters but haven't touched them since the initial install. Clutch center is the hardened cNw unit, I have maybe 600 miles on it. I guess I need to get into the primary and look.

Here is what I had happen to me on my 1972 750. I would adjust the clutch - following all of the rules, and everything would work for about 40 miles. Then the clutch would start to drag. Adjusted the clutch again. Same thing, good for about 40 miles then it would start dragging again. This included checking over the clutch plates and cable function.

Here is what I found. While looking everything over again, I found the lock ring for the clutch operating body backing off. This is why it kept changing my adjustment. I pulled the cover off, used lock tight to secure the lock ring and adjusted the clutch one last time. Many miles later, no more clutch dragging.

Cheers

maylar said:

I have a cNw e-start with belt drive and a dry primary. Lately I've been experiencing a few issues that I believe are related:

1) Accelerate in first gear, back off on the throttle, and pull in the clutch for shifting to second. It feels like the engine is pulling back, like the clutch isn't disengaged. Only happens in 1st.
2) Clunking / grinding while downshifting to first. It's always done that, but lately it's annoyingly loud. I can feel it in the shift lever.
3) Difficulty finding neutral with engine running.

I have a Barnett clutch, with the cNw clutch rod seal.

Is this classic symptoms of gear oil on the clutch plates? I would think (hope) that the CRS would prevent that.

Click to expand...

I have the same primary/e-start as you and was experiencing some problems - not quite all your list but also included "grabbing" as I let the clutch out. Enough to chirp the tyres sometimes.
What fixed it for me (only a couple of weeks ago) was to:
- remove the clutch plates and clean them with brake cleaner
- gave the friction plates a light "flattening" with 400 grade abrasive (wet & dry) on glass - don't know if this was needed, but they were out anyway!
- used a small paint brush and hand-held vacuum cleaner to remove dust from inside the basket - was a fair bit there.
It completely cured my symptoms. I put it down to the effects of dust accumulated over nearly 6000 miles.
Definitely worth a try for you.
Cheers

BTW - absolutely no sign of oil contamination

I often replace those lockrings. Once the slots get worn they are very hard to tighten. Have yet to see a really good tool for the job. I wish there was a better type of lockring.

seattle##gs said:

I often replace those lockrings. Once the slots get worn they are very hard to tighten. Have yet to see a really good tool for the job. I wish there was a better type of lockring.

Click to expand...

Doesn't this tool work for you?