Donington 961 - Birmingham 961: What are those re-engineered components?

Stu Bodycote said:

Had a quick nosey at the pegs whilst at the nec. From what I could tell, they've deleted the second detent position, and altered the profile of the mounting sub, so that the peg won't lift a full 90°. They've also altered the angle of the peg ie it doesn't lift vertical, but points back to around the 10/11 o'clock position. From what I could tell, just the mounting stub has changed....the peg etc is the same.

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Never normally a problem for me but can induce horrific hip cramping when lifting the leg to flick peg back down again!!!

Stu Bodycote said:

Had a quick nosey at the pegs whilst at the nec. From what I could tell, they've deleted the second detent position, and altered the profile of the mounting sub, so that the peg won't lift a full 90°. They've also altered the angle of the peg ie it doesn't lift vertical, but points back to around the 10/11 o'clock position. From what I could tell, just the mounting stub has changed....the peg etc is the same.

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So that sounds as though it’s not a change we can adopt Stu - or have I misunderstood? Or can we just swap over mounting stubs?

Stephen_Spencer said:

So that sounds as though it’s not a change we can adopt Stu - or have I misunderstood? Or can we just swap over mounting stubs?

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I think you probably can adopt the changes. To change the angle only the slotted alignment washer for the stub needs be changed. In fact , I would like my footpeg stubs rotated back to 1 or 2 oclock position.

Stu Bodycote said:

Had a quick nosey at the pegs whilst at the nec. From what I could tell, they've deleted the second detent position, and altered the profile of the mounting sub, so that the peg won't lift a full 90°. They've also altered the angle of the peg ie it doesn't lift vertical, but points back to around the 10/11 o'clock position. From what I could tell, just the mounting stub has changed....the peg etc is the same.

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Stu , Does it fold back to 1 oclock or 2 oclock if I am looking at it from the side ? Backward to 2 oclock or forward to 10 oclock ?

If looking at the right hand side of the bike, the pegs lift position angles back towards the 10/11 o'clock position.

Stu Bodycote said:

If looking at the right hand side of the bike, the pegs lift position angles back towards the 10/11 o'clock position.

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OK Got it , A backward angle . I like to have a couple of those slotted washers , I should ask Norton about it. I personally don't need the 45 degree flip up , but I do want the backward rotation .

I just got in the clutch basket I ordered from Birmuingham Norton. This has the hub , pressure plate , basket complete with bearings and circlip , and starter ring installed . Everything but the friction plates/steel plates and springs.

Tony,
That's good news.
So, these components at least, are common between the Donington and Birmingham 961s. Hmmm?

TonyA said:

I just got in the clutch basket I ordered from Birmuingham Norton. This has the hub , pressure plate , basket complete with bearings and circlip , and starter ring installed . Everything but the friction plates/steel plates and springs.

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Do you mind me asking how much that cost Tony?

cliffa said:

Do you mind me asking how much that cost Tony?

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Added up US$ 947

BritTwit said:

Tony,
That's good news.
So, these components at least, are common between the Donington and Birmingham 961s. Hmmm?

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Looks like the original one to me , down to the 4 cush drive springs and 5 bolts holding the starter ring gear on . Just better made fingers crossed . And with the enormous 69 rwhp I need all the clutch I can get !

TonyA said:

Added up US$ 947

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That's very cheap tbh...cheaper than the last one I had to get in for a customer.
On the one I was looking at at Solihull, the starter ring gear appeared quite different. Don't know what else was changed.

TonyA said:

Added up US$ 947

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Are you going to weld the four through pins just in case?

City Garage said:

Are you going to weld the four through pins just in case?

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I wasn't planning on it . I will post pictures of the rivets etc..

Stephen_Spencer said:

You know what they say about assumptions!

I’d assumed, given the fact that another member had received the gear linkage complete with rose joints (for the part number shown), that I would receive the same configuration. I did’nt. Rod, no rose joints. No matter, apparently those items were not stainless. I’ll pick quality stainless items up locally.

Configuration changes are as detailed previously. 6mm threaded sections, prone to failure, replaced by 6 mm tapped hole (30mm depth). 10mm rod also has slightly more acute bend to clear the primary case and has longer reach (approx 15mm).

Three weeks from ordering to receipt. Not quick but not bad either. I’ve waited longer for KTM spares.

Don’t think this thread works best for recording part/part number detail for re-engineered components. Maybe a definitive list of some sort, possibly like the alternative parts list. Held in the resources space or as a stickie thread. Better ideas welcome.

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A few observations about the gear change link rod I received from Norton.

- It may or may not arrive with rose joints - they are widely available, though mostly mail order. Easier to specify they be included when ordering the rod.
- They may not all adopt exactly the same curve - no matter unless your gear selector arm is not in the centre of its adjustment, as with mine.
- The 6 mm internal threaded portion was not well machined (tapped) - there is quite a lot of free-play in the thread, when a 6mm bolt or rose joint is fitted into the rod. More than there should be.
- With rose joints fitted and rod secured to the bike, the rod itself is free to swing on the rose joints. Too much for my liking with the rose joints that I selected. This may differ between rose joint types/makes.

Note: if you have the original gear change rod fitted with ball and socket ends, keep a close eye on the securing clips. As shown below, the clips on my original rod have begun to distort out of their seatings, increasing the likelihood that they may seperate from the head - not a great outcome.

I’ve reverted back to my re-engineered rod with sleeved/pinned end. I occasionally cannot get the bike into first gear without rocking the bike forward (occasional grinding of gears) - this is because the gear selector arm is not in the centre of its adjustment and as such, the rod is contacting the underside of the primary case before first gear is fully engaged. More fettling methinks.

How are people ordering parts from Norton? email direct....or?

Stephen_Spencer said:

A few observations about the gear change link rod I received from Norton.

- It may or may not arrive with rose joints - they are widely available, though mostly mail order. Easier to specify they be included when ordering the rod.
- They may not all adopt exactly the same curve - no matter unless your gear selector arm is not in the centre of its adjustment, as with mine.
- The 6 mm internal threaded portion was not well machined (tapped) - there is quite a lot of free-play in the thread, when a 6mm bolt or rose joint is fitted into the rod. More than there should be.
- With rose joints fitted and rod secured to the bike, the rod itself is free to swing on the rose joints. Too much for my liking with the rose joints that I selected. This may differ between rose joint types/makes.

Note: if you have the original gear change rod fitted with ball and socket ends, keep a close eye on the securing clips. As shown below, the clips on my original rod have begun to distort out of their seatings, increasing the likelihood that they may seperate from the head - not a great outcome.

I’ve reverted back to my re-engineered rod with sleeved/pinned end. I occasionally cannot get the bike into first gear without rocking the bike forward (occasional grinding of gears) - this is because the gear selector arm is not in the centre of its adjustment and as such, the rod is contacting the underside of the primary case before first gear is fully engaged. More fettling methinks.

View attachment 112009View attachment 112010

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Hi Stephen , Can I suggest that the distorted spring clips hane stretched a bit ? You might be able to bring them back to shape on a vice with pliers .

kev said:

How are people ordering parts from Norton? email direct....or?

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Via the online form on the Norton website Kev.

- Go to the Norton website.


- Navigate to the ‘Contact’ option - this reveals an online form (Get in Touch).


- Provide requested info; select ‘Parts’ from the drop down.

- Provide as much specific information as you can ref the part(s) you require.

- Be patient; my requests have taken several weeks.

TonyA said:

Hi Stephen , Can I suggest that the distorted spring clips hane stretched a bit ? You might be able to bring them back to shape on a vice with pliers .

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Thanks Tony - gonna do that whilst I order replacements; the clips are available online.