Cylinder stud thread sealant

[enekoizagirre]

I've got the tipical oil leak from the two cylinder front studs (number 9 and 10 in tightening sequence). What do you guys use as sealant in this case?
Thanks

 

[trident sam]

Loctite 577 works for me.
sam

 

[Towner]

Hi,

I recently tried to resolve this problem, by applying Hylomar around the pushrod tubes and around the studs. But I can't inform you about the result before next season.
I think Hylomar is better than silicon, because it is more sticky. Silicon is more like rubber and Hylomar is more like glue.

Edit: I believe it is very important to apply the sealant around the pushrod tubes, because this is the origin of the leaks.

Edit2: IMHO Loctite is no proper sealant for head gaskets. It is very good to fix the studs in the barrels. As I know the studs are mounted in blind holes, so that can't cause
the leaks.

Edit3: I had not much luck with sealing only the nuts without removing the head. When it is leaking at this locations, it may not last very long until it starts leaking at
the gasket gap. But you can try silicone or loctite 577 at the nuts.

Ralf

 

[trident sam]

Hi,

I recently tried to resolve this problem, by applying Hylomar around the pushrod tubes and around the studs. But I can't inform you about the result before next season.
I think Hylomar is better than silicon, because it is more sticky. Silicon is more like rubber and Hylomar is more like glue.

Edit: I believe it is very important to apply the sealant around the pushrod tubes, because this is the origin of the leaks.

Edit2: IMHO Loctite is no proper sealant for head gaskets. It is very good to fix the studs in the barrels. As I know the studs are mounted in blind holes, so that can't cause
the leaks.

Edit3: I had not much luck with sealing only the nuts without removing the head. When it is leaking at this locations, it may not last very long until it starts leaking at
the gasket gap. But you can try silicone or loctite 577 at the nuts.



Many, if not all the 850 barrells that I've seen, the front stud threads break into the push rod tunnels, so oil can work it's way up the stud and out, so that's where I use the 577

sam

Ralf

 

[DogT]

Actually Hylomar is touted as a remove/replace type sealant. It certainly doesn't glue things together, at least not the stuff I got. It does work though.

Dave
69S

 

[Towner]

Many, if not all the 850 barrells that I've seen, the front stud threads break into the push rod tunnels, so oil can work it's way up the stud and out, so that's where I use the 577

sam

I completely agree with you to use Loctite for the threads.

Actually Hylomar is touted as a remove/replace type sealant. It certainly doesn't glue things together, at least not the stuff I got. It does work though.

You are right, I didn't want to say Hylomar is glue, but that it does more adhere and is more difficult to remove than silicone. I also suppose that silicone could falsify the torque
when it is dry, but I can't prove it.

Ralf

 

[Hobot]

Loctite seals in most cases to seal but it tends to get hard - brittle, which is how it locks tight but also means thermal expansion and vibration tend to crack it to weep. Hylomar is more sticky than RTV and adheres to itself better than cooked aged RTV. RTV is more trouble to remove but only in sections compared to Hylomar which tends to adhere uniformly. Don't know it super duper blow by evacuation would suck oil back in this location.

 

[guest76]

These are the products I use:

Wellseal
it's is a non-set sealer (so will never go off)
It's great for rocker boxes, inspection covers etc.
I always paint my paper gaskets in Wellseal, and leave it to go tacky overnight before using them - it works a treat!
I wouldn't recommend it for crank case halves or anything else that will be immersed in oil

Loctite 5699 Premium Silicon Sealer
it sets up (but it remains a little flexible so won't go brittle and cracked out)
This is the stuff I use for the crank case - it is a nice grey colour, so doesn't look terrible like blue hylomar or that horrible red shit.
The temperature resistance is good, which is another important consideration

For thread locking I use two types of Loctite:
Green 270 - for in-accessible things that need to be locked in
Purple 222 - low strength perfect as an anti-shake for things you want to undo (like panels and covers) This is the stuff I use most of!

Bearing retaining:
Loctite 620 - high strength, heat resistant. I use for gluing the bearings into the crank case etc...


The other product that people rave about is ThreeBond
I have no experience of it myself, but the Kawasaki and Yamaha boys reckon it's the best thing available.

 

[mike996]

This is like an oil thread - everybody has their fav products.

On the Norton the only two "sealing" products I use are:

Permatex Moto Seal http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... rey-detail

and

Blue loctite

AND...safety wire; for when something positively, absolutely has to stay on the bike!

I don't normally apply any sealer to gaskets. I've found that the problem if gaskets don't seal is that the mating surfaces have been warped over time. Truing the surfaces will fix the problem.

 

[Hobot]

Well in the spirit of experimenting on scope of sealing Nortons I've given up on any gaskests in tranny or engine but the TS cover needed to space the oil pump seal and head gaskets which others have foregone and so may I next time. The Yama-Three-etc-Bonds are what their name says, a type of glue you may develop an bad opinion of trying to part old cooked seams. There seams to be 3 type of goops, tarry weather adhesive that hardens and glues, clay dust with a carrier that hardens/fractures and aheres, and snot like stuff that just sets up firmer not to flow away but has less fastening properties so depends more on going above factory torque to stay sealed, at least in the machines I've dealt with. There's a 4th type sealer, metalic paint thin stuff for heads, but so thin can't always take up the seal gap when engines run into heated pressurized elastic zones, so I've given up on that too and use natural fiber thread and 600'F Hylomar up there now. Nothing will seal if blow by reaches some level, so then can work up the scale of PVC devices till it can't keep up then dive back in or wipe and drip.

 

[lrutt]

yamahbond on threads for me has kept it oil tight for a few years now.

 

[Snorton74]

I think the best sealant is one of Jim's breathers,lol.

 

[xbacksideslider]

Don't forget silk thread around the push rod tubes

 

[Hobot]

must be natural fiber, silk, cotton etc as synthetic thread melts, contracts and leaves gaps weak spots in its coverage. JSM uses unwaxed dental floss. Good luck finding natural fiber thread now a days or even in the 50's.