- Joined
- Aug 6, 2005
- Messages
- 1,211
Not being as astute as many on this forum when it comes to mechanical genius, I often find myself questioning repairs and my ability to perform them. Although I have muddled through many major repairs on many different bikes over the years, I still consider myself a novice and I do get nervous about unfamiliar territory. With my recent purchase of another commando I found the bike needed the clutch rod seal mod since my clutch was dragging terribly. I tried to find pictures and info on this mod, but came up almost pictureless, not a word, but sufficient for our purposes. I ordered the seal from British Cycle Supply part number 04-0373/A and downoaded the instructions from here http://atlanticgreen.com/rodseal2e.htm. The only special tool you need for this job is a Clutch diaphram compressor tool that can be ordered from just about any vendor and you also need blue loctite. The rest of the tools needed are standard everyday tools, sockets, open end wrenches, screw driver, needle nose pliers. I did not take pictures of the removal of the left footrest/brake lever or the actual primary cover. I assume everyone gets that part. So once those two items are removed you have the exposed clutch. Attach your clutch compressor and tighten until you see the clutch diaphragm spring compress ( first picture). You will need to follow the downloaded instructions once you have disassembled the clutch. There is a part that tells you to measure a few different parts, but the jist of this procedure is to install a simple seal holder with seal. the instructions do mention that The clutch rod seal holder must not bottom out against the clutch center nut. I think this is your guide to a successful fit if you have no way of measuring per the instructions. If the seal holder touches the clutch center nut you will have to follow the fettling instructions at the bottom of the page of instructions you downloaded from above link. As aside note you will also have to click on the pictures to see a larger image.
Then you want to remove the retain clip or spring like this with a pair of needle nose pliers
Once you have this retainer/spring removed, your clutch plates are free and can be removed with a super special tool like a piece of bent wire
This picture shows how the clutch basket is dripping with gear oil and my clutch plates were all fowled and stuck together with the same gear oil.
So, now you have the clutch plates all removed you need to clean them. I used carb cleaner. I love carb cleaner because it has a million great uses including carb cleaning, but in our case it cleans clutch plates great. I had a special Norton clutch plate cleaning rag, but it isn't a requirement.
After you clean all of your plates put them back in the basket the way you removed them and you should have something that looks like this.
Ok, now you want to pull out your clutch rod and clean it off and inspect it for any rough spots. I did not polish the end of mine like the instructions said because the rod looked fine. After the rod is clean you can finally put some blue loctite on the seal holders threads and hand tighten to the end of the main shaft and tight snug with the right size wrench like this.
Now it's time to button things up. Put your diaphragm spring back on and once in place put the retaining clip/spring back on and make sure it is seated in the groove. If you have gotten this far you will know what this means. The clip/spring is the black ring outside the special tool.
Once the clip/spring is in place you can remove special Norton compressing tool and you should have something that looks like this
I did not take an actual picture of the rest of the procedure because it is just basic clutch adjustment after this point which is in the manual on page C35
I adjusted my clutch with the primary off and after adjustment I put the primary cover back on and also attached the footrest/brake lever. Then add the proper amount of oil or ATF (no more than 200cc's) to your primary case and you should be done. I certainly hope this is accurate enough for anyone unsure of the procedure and if not or I have missed a step that is critical, let me know, but this is how I did this mod and it worked for me and if I can do it anyone can.
Happy wrenching, Tim
Then you want to remove the retain clip or spring like this with a pair of needle nose pliers
Once you have this retainer/spring removed, your clutch plates are free and can be removed with a super special tool like a piece of bent wire
This picture shows how the clutch basket is dripping with gear oil and my clutch plates were all fowled and stuck together with the same gear oil.
So, now you have the clutch plates all removed you need to clean them. I used carb cleaner. I love carb cleaner because it has a million great uses including carb cleaning, but in our case it cleans clutch plates great. I had a special Norton clutch plate cleaning rag, but it isn't a requirement.
After you clean all of your plates put them back in the basket the way you removed them and you should have something that looks like this.
Ok, now you want to pull out your clutch rod and clean it off and inspect it for any rough spots. I did not polish the end of mine like the instructions said because the rod looked fine. After the rod is clean you can finally put some blue loctite on the seal holders threads and hand tighten to the end of the main shaft and tight snug with the right size wrench like this.
Now it's time to button things up. Put your diaphragm spring back on and once in place put the retaining clip/spring back on and make sure it is seated in the groove. If you have gotten this far you will know what this means. The clip/spring is the black ring outside the special tool.
Once the clip/spring is in place you can remove special Norton compressing tool and you should have something that looks like this
I did not take an actual picture of the rest of the procedure because it is just basic clutch adjustment after this point which is in the manual on page C35
I adjusted my clutch with the primary off and after adjustment I put the primary cover back on and also attached the footrest/brake lever. Then add the proper amount of oil or ATF (no more than 200cc's) to your primary case and you should be done. I certainly hope this is accurate enough for anyone unsure of the procedure and if not or I have missed a step that is critical, let me know, but this is how I did this mod and it worked for me and if I can do it anyone can.
Happy wrenching, Tim
