Clutch improvements ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

splatt

Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
1,131
Country flag
Every time I have pulled my clutch apart the hub has been loose with the nut held on by the lock tab, now the hub is worn out on the spline and needs replacing.
The lock tab appears to wear badly, so I'm thinking of useing the suggested hardened washer and loctite on the nut,there has been comments on a larger washer behind the clutch to help support it.
Any one else got any any special tricks they have been using to keep it all up tight and reliable
 
I think a belleville washer would do the trick, then are conical spring steel that stay in tension, if you can only find one that suits the bill? If you do and it appears a bit thin put two on. I have allways had a great respect for these ,and grossly under rated for there anti-loosen ability.
 
Make sure to use a new hardened circlip behind the basket, and that the groove for it is clean and square.
 
"The circlip behind the clutch locating washer should be replaced with #15 shown here. http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g12.html 06-8072
This is a much beefier clip and does a good job. Sharp edge facing gearbox."

Hint from pvisseriii.

Use blue locktite on the nut. 40-45 ft lbs.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
"The circlip behind the clutch locating washer should be replaced with #15 shown here. http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g12.html 06-8072
This is a much beefier clip and does a good job. Sharp edge facing gearbox."

Hint from pvisseriii.

Use blue locktite on the nut. 40-45 ft lbs.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...
I have just done this on mine and the alternative part was too thick to fit in the groove, I had to take 0.13mm off it, on the plus side it is a perfect fit now
 
As mentioned above, the torque spec in the manual IS WRONG. It will destroy the circlip EVERY TIME.
 
I drilled the clutch nut for safety wire several years ago. I much prefer that method to the tab or other means of security for that particular nut. I just tighten it to to "good and snug" and safety wire it. (Had to do that twice recently for the e-start install/reinstall!)
 
mike996 said:
I drilled the clutch nut for safety wire several years ago. I much prefer that method to the tab or other means of security for that particular nut. I just tighten it to to "good and snug" and safety wire it. (Had to do that twice recently for the e-start install/reinstall!)
Click to expand...

What do you tie it to ?, I'm no longer using the lock tab as it seemed to soft and the hub just chewed into it
 
I kinda like the idea of anything that will decrease the weight of the clutch pack. Including Ludwig's idea of lightening the steal plates by enlarging the center hole on a lathe.

Russ
 
The safety wire goes from the nut down and through one of the holes in the center gear (which rotates with the nut) then back through the adjacent hole and back to the nut. I don't have a pic but it's an easy hook-up.
 
the Belleville clutch washers are available at http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/N ... NO=1969924 though the minimum order is 12, I went that route awhile back and sold the surplus washers here at cost. On another thread someone said they were available singly at Fastenal. In any case loctite is required in addition to the washer, I found out the hard way :oops: (was VERY lucky and the nut loosened up pushing distance from home), used blue loctite the second time and all is well with the nut torqued to 45 ft-lbs.
 
I think comnoz will sell you the Bellville washers? I seem to remember him offering them one time. They're not cheap. I had to remove all the washers on mine to get the DD clutch rod seal to work, I just use blue locktite.

Dave
69S
 
I had problem with tearing lock tabs and loosening every 200 miles on rebuild of motor found bearing had spun in left hand side caseing wearing casing after rebuild and hardened washer to clutch problem solved I'm guessing play in casing caused wobble in clutch drum causing it to shear lock washerand loosen no problem since
 
renorton said:
I had problem with tearing lock tabs and loosening every 200 miles on rebuild of motor found bearing had spun in left hand side caseing wearing casing after rebuild and hardened washer to clutch problem solved I'm guessing play in casing caused wobble in clutch drum causing it to shear lock washerand loosen no problem since
Click to expand...

Some clutch hub wobble is normal due to the sleeve gear being bushed, not to mention that you have this spinning mass hanging way out of at the end of a spindly shaft. The extent of the wobble is relative.

Chain and belt primaries should be adjusted when HOT. Tight belts and chains will cause ungodly stress on the internals and is compounded with some hard riding. Although the chains may grow a little, the belt will not. It's the hubs that really swell. Especially the belted alloy type.
 
DogT said:
I think comnoz will sell you the Bellville washers? I seem to remember him offering them one time. They're not cheap. I had to remove all the washers on mine to get the DD clutch rod seal to work, I just use blue locktite.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

I ordered these in error, I was going for the one for the alternator rotor, misordered. But it is correct for the clutch, and cheap. $1.26 each, no minimum.
Fastenal has been great for SS hardware. I did much of the stuff on my Combat for cheaper than cad plated.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... ?sku=33355
 
Unread postby rvich » Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:03 pm
I kinda like the idea of anything that will decrease the weight of the clutch pack. Including Ludwig's idea of lightening the steal plates by enlarging the center hole on a lathe.
Click to expand...

Those big-hole steel clutch plates- a cure for slipping clutches as well- can be had from Andover Norton, part# 06-7248.
 
How about something easier, let's add them to the access norton store. I am putting together a list of items to start selling there.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

P
new improvement in the Jenvey Throttle body
Replies
17
Views
1,645
cliffa
cliffa
Jonez69
06-3979 Clutch center wear
Replies
12
Views
1,125
Jonez69
Jonez69
Q
Clutch Sticking upon inital gear selection
Replies
9
Views
1,166
JimNH
J
S
Commando Clutch on a 650 SS
Replies
10
Views
881
Stephen Hill
S
Tornado
  • Locked
Rear Drum Improvements?
2
Replies
22
Views
3,018
robs ss
robs ss
Back
Top