Clutch alignment

Dear All,

I need to reassemble the clutch and I wish to have a feedback from you so as not to make mistakes.
I did like this:
-I placed the circlip on the mainshaft gear box;
-I fitted the inner chaincase;
-then I inserted the spacer clutch location;
-then I inserted the alineament clutch shim (those smaller);
-then I inserted the other alineament clutch shim (more large);
-then the clutch center with clutch chain wheel.
Is correct or is something missing?

Thanks.

Ciao.

Piero

That sounds right. Look here http://www.oldbritts.com/nor_comm_71_8.html items 55, 56, 57, 58. 56 should be a cupped washer, cup to the clip. But also make sure your clutch outer lines up with the drive hub using straight edges.

Tighten only to 40 ft-lbs, not 70. Use blue locktite.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

That sounds right. Look here http://www.oldbritts.com/nor_comm_71_8.html items 55, 56, 57, 58. 56 should be a cupped washer, cup to the clip. But also make sure your clutch outer lines up with the drive hub using straight edges.

Tighten only to 40 ft-lbs, not 70. Use blue locktite.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Hi Dave,
What do you think about use a belleville washer to tight the clutch nut?.
Ciao.
Piero

DogT said:

That sounds right. Look here http://www.oldbritts.com/nor_comm_71_8.html items 55, 56, 57, 58. 56 should be a cupped washer, cup to the clip. But also make sure your clutch outer lines up with the drive hub using straight edges.

Tighten only to 40 ft-lbs, not 70. Use blue locktite.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Yes, and items 57 and 58 are shims to bring the hubs to alignment. You may have to use 1, both, multiples or none at all. Just use as many or as little i takes to align the hubs up.

What is the best way to ensure proper alignment.

Then, I can't translate "stright edge": i understand what means "stright" and also means  "edge" but does not understand the meaning of the words together!

Ciao.
Pieo

pierodn said:

Then, I can't translate "stright edge": i understand what means "stright" and also means  "edge" but does not understand the meaning of the words together!

Click to expand...

A "straight edge" can be any tool that has an accurately machined straight side or "edge" (such as a steel ruler) that can be used to check alignment between two or more components.

Long long Ranging rider Alaska and back Bob Paton had the best method using two 90' squares one to about butt up to each other to easy reveal out of square alignment in both spacing out on shafts and angles of offset.

pierodn said:

DogT said:

That sounds right. Look here http://www.oldbritts.com/nor_comm_71_8.html items 55, 56, 57, 58. 56 should be a cupped washer, cup to the clip. But also make sure your clutch outer lines up with the drive hub using straight edges.

Tighten only to 40 ft-lbs, not 70. Use blue locktite.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Hi Dave,
What do you think about use a belleville washer to tight the clutch nut?.
Ciao.
Piero

Click to expand...

I'm not Dave, but FWIW I used just a Belleville washer without blue loctite in error and the clutch nut eventually loosened up while I was riding (close to home fortunately)....reassembled it with the Belleville washer AND blue loctite and all is well

I forgot the belleville, yes lots of people seem to use them with success. I'm not in that category, I don't have any handy.

Dave
69S

Thanks to every body.
Ciao.
Piero

I had Trixie clutch nut come loose on her first trip to pavement but limped home with some primary noises to re nip a bit tighter w/o locktite nor beville washer and has held good for over two years now with a couple openings of clutch to check in but nothing to fix or clean so nipped up w/o the stupid soft fold over tab washer, just good hard fairly thin washer that lets DynoDave rod seal fit right. Thankgoodness the factory parts pretty much self align well enough for triplex chain.

Old mail flash back learning curve balls with DynoDave hand holding.....


5/22/2003 11:29 PM dynodave@GIS.NET

DD> You have a new clutch height, so all bets are off.
>> .050 short make a difference....sure, harder to pull, about 25 lbs
>> http://www.gis.net/~dynodave/images/comclu.jp

h> *Hmm well as I said I considered the old thin clutch wonderous
> easy, no slip and no stick. Only used it to on take offs anyway.
> Lets see, if I clean old frictions and use em instead of new ones
> I get mathemathically with alloy pressure plate and 3 steels
> .504" + .350" + .24" = 1.094".
> This leaves ~0.58" to make up for ideal. Belt drive info I've
> seen [none with the Dreer supplied unit] mentions a steel plate
> should interface with the alloy clutch basket backing. I didn't
> do this so maybe that's what's missing in my case. Do you
> think it wise to add such and is such a thin plate practical
> here or should some be taken off the other steel plates so
> extra plate can be make more rodust?
>
> *If this is all merely academic for the weak fisted fellas then
> I'm ok with a heavy clutch as long as it functions well otherwise.
>
> Popeye grip hobot.

==================================

DD>> Never heard of your tab washer problem before?
>> How does YOUR tab compare to the pix?
>> http://www.gis.net/~dynodave/images/crslg.jpg
>> As you can see tab washer shouldn't even come close to diaphragm.

h * Well nope it don't exactly since I put tab washer on top of
> the thick slit/lock washer so it stood off the face of the center
> to get distorted on 1st torguing down later beat into submission.
> Hey I looked in Haines manual to see and that's the way their
> photo of an 850 shows it installed, with a thick washer under
> and tab washer standing proud of the center face. sheeze.
> Even so your seal fit just right, no gap betwix the fixing nut.
> ...............................................

DD> Add them all up, which is the one/ones acounting for the difference?

h> OK old pack 1st -
> 1x .229" + 3x .080" + 4x .126" = .973" mathematically.
> Acutally measured .968", .005" less, assumed d/t wear.
> OK my new pack next.
> 1x .350" + 3x .080" + 4x .1185" = 1.068" mathematiclly.
> Actually measured it at 1.10", .042" extra, don't know why.
> Either old or new pack falls .119" to .058" less than expected.
> .........................................................


DD> pressure plate- how thick? Since you say thicker than stock....
>> than WHICH stock pressure plate, this doesn't make sense to me.
>
h *Me niether till your list, original [stock one to me] is .229"
> *while the new alloy anodized plate is .350" thick.
> ..................................................

DD> How many of each kind of piece....?

h> *I found 3 steels [installed now, didn't measure em prior],
> *4 friction, old ones being .126" each
> *while new clean ones [Barnett 524-73] are only .1185" thick.
> ..................................................

On Thu, 22 May 2003 20:41:53 -0500,
> David Comeau wrote to hobot's hand holding request again:

DD> Check parts against my list.
>> http://www.gis.net/~dynodave/clutchpak.htm
>> What is the starting point for your clutch thick or thin?
>
h> *Then I guess as my original wondrous clutch pack only = 0.968"
> ......................................................

DD > your bike has at some time been modified to a nonstandard combination of parts
1. You have 73+ thin clutch components in your 72. ie thin friction plates and thin pressure plate. You are short 2 pieces.
2. Stan sent you a 72/earlier thick pressure plate.
3. You need to decide which way you want to go and get the correct combination and # of parts.
4. I'd suggest make a late thin (style) clutch.
5. send the pressure plate back and get a thin one.
6. Add a steel plate and a friction plate to get a "complete" thin clutch pack.

Mine is certainly not a 2 finger pull, but 3 will do and I'm no gorilla. Plus when the diaphragm breaks over it's a 1 finger hold against the grip. Action is smooth and reliable. It is amazing how little the rod moves.

Dave
69S