Centerstand Shortening for Ease

Status
Not open for further replies.

jaydee75

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Messages
965
Country flag
I'm a little (and oldish) guy and have a lot of trouble getting my MK3 on the centerstand. My rear wheel is about 1" off the ground on the stand, so I was thinking about cutting 1/2 - 3/4 Inch off. Will shortening the stand make lifting onto the stand easier?
Jaydee
 
Me too, but mange. left hand holding the bars on lock stop, right hand on the rear loop and as I pull back I put all my weight on the stand lever with my left foot and she's up.

Shortening might help.

Dave
 
Shortening the centerstand would make it slightly easier, but then so would lowering your lifting grip on the frame.
If you're like me you lift on the rear frame loop. Someone needs to invent a lower lifting handle that bolts on somehow.
Hmmm..

A good welder should be able to shorten the stand easily enough.
They'd have to remove the foot pedal extension and the half round feet feet first, then cut out 1/2" - 1" of leg, then weld the foot pedal and feet back on.
A bit of work.
 
I found the best way for me is to grip left foot peg with left hand and pull back. My right hand is on the seat rail, more to balance myself than anything.
 
Another way to ease center stand use would be to use longer shocks. Years ago I replaced the stock Girling units with those intended for a BSA. They are 13 1/2" fully extended. I don't remember what the original's measure but these are longer. I did this to increase cornering clearance riding two-up and found that an added benefit was the bike will practically leap up on the center stand. Front tire, center stand, and rear tire ALL on the ground too. Good for the isolastics I think. Need to spin the rear wheel? No problem, just place a thin shingle under the stand. And honestly I think it handles better too with this slightly different geometry.
 
mschmitz57 said:
Shortening the centerstand would make it slightly easier, but then so would lowering your lifting grip on the frame.
If you're like me you lift on the rear frame loop. Someone needs to invent a lower lifting handle that bolts on somehow.
Hmmm..

A good welder should be able to shorten the stand easily enough.
They'd have to remove the foot pedal extension and the half round feet feet first, then cut out 1/2" - 1" of leg, then weld the foot pedal and feet back on.
A bit of work.

Length of flat bar @4" bolted to shock mount pointing down drilled hole at the bottom , supported on frame behind oil tank by a grabrail clip and a rear footpeg bolted through it all to use as a lifting handle, fold down when not in use.
sam
 
I find it easier to change the rear wheel when it is further off the ground.
My favourite method of getting it on the centre stand is to mover the bike back quickly and push down on the centre stand lever. Momentum gets it up.
last year I found the stand [ 0n 850 ] wasn't getting the bike up enough to clear the rear wheel with the new TT100's fitted. Mine now has special rubber feet fitted to raise it a bit more. Also grips the slippery concrete at the servo's.
After a long days riding and when I am really tired, I resort to using the side stand on the 850. Happened in Mahia several times.
750 has no mods, nor does it have a side stand. [ the first magic mod I did to it before becoming a mechanic. ]
Dereck
 
jaydee75 said:
I'm a little (and oldish) guy and have a lot of trouble getting my MK3 on the centerstand. My rear wheel is about 1" off the ground on the stand, so I was thinking about cutting 1/2 - 3/4 Inch off. Will shortening the stand make lifting onto the stand easier?
Jaydee

You could try a couple of thin bits of wooden sheeting or similar one under front and other under rear wheel. This will lift the bike so when you put stand down on the ground you can see what affect the cjange on height as on both the ease of use and clearance from tyre to wood to help you decide on how much to remove.

As the front wheel is on the floor and the rear in the air with the stand in between the amount you need to lose may not be as much as you think and would be a shame an annoying to take off to much or for that matter not enough to make a difference.
 
Yes, run the front wheel up on a 1X or 2X that will make it much easier. I thought I was the only one with that problem, last time I had to get the wife to help. Ugh. I can do it if I really give it the heave ho, but it's too easy to loose balance now too.
 
I agree with Cash, the best technique is to think of it as driving the stand through the ground with your leg, the bike then pops on it's stand with little effort other than to steady the frame with your hands. The pre- 71 bikes with the stand mounted to the frame rather than the gearbox mounting plates are a different story.
 
I also use more of my leg to push down on the stand an my left arm just pulls up gently on loop near shock mount. Because most of your weight is on the stand an force is going through your leg its far less stressful on your back and the bike is more stable. It is very much like kick starting and timing and technique are the key. So bikes normally more modern ones are better than others as the stands design together with its positioning and the balance of front to rear mass of the machine effect the ease of use.
 
I have the early Centre stand, which I think might be shorter; but still difficult . I use a skateboard ramp my kids built years ago - which makes it useable.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top