Camplate button MK3

Kind of embarrassed to ask this question...how the heck do I rivet my new button to the camplate for the neutral switch? The first pic shows the old one already punched out and the new one with no groove. The second pic shows how the bottom of the new button sits in the camplate...and it’s a loose fit. How does it get set in the hole?
Thanks!

Some how you peen it, It would flare the end and tighten up the OD of the rivet to tighten it up. Like when put metal together when used rivets. You need to back up the head on a strong surface and use a punch to hit the other end, You can use the old one to practice on and then knock it out again , you can practice that way, Look for a web video on peening to show you how.

Oildrip said:

Kind of embarrassed to ask this question...how the heck do I rivet my new button to the camplate for the neutral switch? The first pic shows the old one already punched out and the new one with no groove. The second pic shows how the bottom of the new button sits in the camplate...and it’s a loose fit. How does it get set in the hole?
Thanks!

Click to expand...

Personally, I wouldn't waste the time. Simply weld up the damaged one. Do this without removing it. After welding, the button will be harder than the stock unit and will last much longer. Better to let the pin on the neutral switch wear out. Those can be easily replaced without dismantling the gearbox.
Since you've already removed the old button, press the new one in. Once installed, support the new button on an anvil or flat section of a vice. Place a large pin punch in the center of the back side of the button. Whack that punch to create a deep center punch into the shaft of the new button. That will help hold it in place. Alternately, simply braze it in place from the back side. Be careful not to warp the cam plate. Brazing risks warping the cam plate unless proper precautions are taken.

I drilled a dimple into a thick block of steel clamped in a vice just deep enough for the button to sit in it with its shank sticking up proud, so basically just the point of the drill, located the button in the dimple with the cam plate fitted over it and hammered the end over with the ball end of a hammer.

Oildrip & Grumpy knob, please check your private messages, aka conversations.

Thank you for the tips Carl H, Chaztuna and Grumpyknob. I made the dimple today out of a scrap piece of steel, for the button head to sit in, but the problem is the shank doesn’t sit proud of the counter-sunk hole in the camplate (like in my second pic) so I have nothing to hit directly with a ball peen hammer. I practised setting the old one with a small punch but it didn’t work too well. Maybe I don’t have the right size punch. I’ll figure it out one way or another!

You wouldn't want this to come out, it could get very expensive. My vote would be to take to a weld shop and have them Mig or Tig weld it Both weld types leave a clean finish not like stick welding

Oildrip said:

Thank you for the tips Carl H, Chaztuna and Grumpyknob. I made the dimple today out of a scrap piece of steel, for the button head to sit in, but the problem is the shank doesn’t sit proud of the counter-sunk hole in the camplate (like in my second pic) so I have nothing to hit directly with a ball peen hammer. I practised setting the old one with a small punch but it didn’t work too well. Maybe I don’t have the right size punch. I’ll figure it out one way or another!

Click to expand...

If you center punch the middle of the shank hard enough, it should splay it out and up so it spreads into the counter sunk part. If that doesn`t work then weld.