Cam plate button MK111 .

Torontonian

Torontonian

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After having both of my MK 111 transmissions apart with exploring the finding neutral issue , as indicated by instrument lights ( neutral ) not indicating such , the revelation is cam plate neutral indicator button with deep grooved slots . Not much info on this although Chaztuna recommends a buildup with MIG or TIG weld to the worn slot . Also AN must have realized we have a problem as they now offer a new button that must be peened into place . So I'll take both plates to my welder for a tiny buildup and grind this winter . Just letting MK111 owners know . Enjoy .
 
Torontonian said:
After having both of my MK 111 transmissions apart with exploring the finding neutral issue , as indicated by instrument lights ( neutral ) not indicating such , the revelation is cam plate neutral indicator button with deep grooved slots . Not much info on this although Chaztuna recommends a buildup with MIG or TIG weld to the worn slot . Also AN must have realized we have a problem as they now offer a new button that must be peened into place . So I'll take both plates to my welder for a tiny buildup and grind this winter . Just letting MK111 owners know . Enjoy .
Click to expand...
Just did a button repair myself. I replaced the button with a new AN part. Peened it with a punch then brazed the peened end for good measure. Finally, smoothed the camplate surface that the shifter forks interface with.
 
Torontonian said:
After having both of my MK 111 transmissions apart with exploring the finding neutral issue , as indicated by instrument lights ( neutral ) not indicating such , the revelation is cam plate neutral indicator button with deep grooved slots . Not much info on this although Chaztuna recommends a buildup with MIG or TIG weld to the worn slot . Also AN must have realized we have a problem as they now offer a new button that must be peened into place . So I'll take both plates to my welder for a tiny buildup and grind this winter . Just letting MK111 owners know . Enjoy .
Click to expand...
The new AN button is a little taller and wider - if you buy a new Lucas neutral switch, you must have the new button - even an un-worn original button barely works with the new switch if at all.
 
marshg246 said:
The new AN button is a little taller and wider - if you buy a new Lucas neutral switch, you must have the new button - even an un-worn original button barely works with the new switch if at all.
Click to expand...
Can I order in the new improved button with using the original switch which works fine ?
Or should I order the improved button and the new switch ?
Have both old model items been superceded ?
 
Torontonian said:
Can I order in the new improved button with using the original switch which works fine ?
Or should I order the improved button and the new switch ?
Have both old model items been superceded ?
Click to expand...
New button works with both. If your switch works and doesn't leak (too much), use it. The new switch is a slight PITA as it has spade terminals. At least AN supplies a little harness for it - others don't.
 
marshg246 said:
New button works with both. If your switch works and doesn't leak (too much), use it. The new switch is a slight PITA as it has spade terminals. At least AN supplies a little harness for it - others don't.
Click to expand...
Thank you Greg . My original switch(es) do not leak , yet have a sharp point that rides up and over the button , creating the known issue of the deep groove in the button . I'm wondering if filing smoother the switch sharp piston point would reduce wear . All wear is to the button . I'll go to the AN site to view their switch tip .
 
Torontonian said:
Thank you Greg . My original switch(es) do not leak , yet have a sharp point that rides up and over the button , creating the known issue of the deep groove in the button . I'm wondering if filing smoother the switch sharp piston point would reduce wear . All wear is to the button . I'll go to the AN site to view their switch tip .
Click to expand...
I'll order in 2 of the improved buttons and 2 of the new switches , to mate up .
The image of the switch shows a slightly longer depressor shaft , but the tip profile to the button contact looks similar to the original one .
 
Torontonian said:
I'll order in 2 of the improved buttons and 2 of the new switches , to mate up .
The image of the switch shows a slightly longer depressor shaft , but the tip profile to the button contact looks similar to the original one .
Click to expand...
I think they are selling the Lucas switch. It requires a little more movement and is more rounded at the tip (see the larger picture). With the original button when turned the Lucas switch in far enough to actuate, it would catch on the camplate and turned in slightly more, prevent the camplate from turning. With the new button, it worked very well and probably won't damage the button.

I know AN is (or was) working on a replacement that is all electronic. Last I heard it was working and there was only the issue of getting a supply. That would really be nice because it would not touch the button. They were primarily doing it because most of the originals leak. AFAIK, the new Lucas switches don't leak, but then they are not almost 50 years old!
 
marshg246 said:
I think they are selling the Lucas switch. It requires a little more movement and is more rounded at the tip (see the larger picture). With the original button when turned the Lucas switch in far enough to actuate, it would catch on the camplate and turned in slightly more, prevent the camplate from turning. With the new button, it worked very well and probably won't damage the button.

I know AN is (or was) working on a replacement that is all electronic. Last I heard it was working and there was only the issue of getting a supply. That would really be nice because it would not touch the button. They were primarily doing it because most of the originals leak. AFAIK, the new Lucas switches don't leak, but then they are not almost 50 years old!
Click to expand...
Thanks again . Hard to find info on this subject . I'll place the order tomorrow . I believe it's a real issue for MK 111 owners .
 
All Mk 111 owners should be on top of this issue , particularly if they are having troubles finding neutral , 1 st . , 2nd gears engagements and neutral light indication . I'll drill out the buttons on both MK 111' s tomorrow to replace with the improved flatter head buttons . Hopefully harder material too .
 
Peened in place the new button . The old one was a disaster , a deep slot in the original steel button . Hanging up neutral . Looking at the old original switch , the engagement shaft after a cleaning is made of steel ? Steel on steel created the deep groove in the button .
Got the new type neutral switch in today from Andover Norton and everything is made of brass , including the push pin itself . So hard material on soft switch plunger . Let's see how it all works .
Lubrication to it could be another thing to think about too . Enjoy , you MK 111 owners .
 
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