bummer - cush hub buffers - failed and missing - ???

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kerinorton said:
I ended up cutting the 2 ribs off the main rubbers to enable the wheel to slide on easier. Those rubbers have been on my bike at least 8 years now. They have compressed a bit, with profile marks of the spigots obvious, but I still need to pull the wheel on over them from the right hand side of the bike.
Dereck

As for chain adjustment. After I saw a commando rider ask Nes to adjust his chain to the 5/8" or so clearance, Nes told him it was too tight. The rider didn't agree. After about 2 laps, his chain came off. I am happy to let my chain have up to 1 - 1/2 inch of play. It doesn't cause me any problems.
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5/8" IS too tight - especially if set up on the stand.

3/4" - 1" with the stand up and the rider on.
 
gortnipper said:
5/8" IS too tight - especially if set up on the stand.

3/4" - 1" with the stand up and the rider on.
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set my drive chain at 1.25 - 1.50 with the bike on the center stand (no rider). too loose?

all went well yesterday with the new cush buffers. took the Mk2 out for about a 12 mile run. no issues except a friggin oil leak on the primary case (i'm assuming it's the outer cover). on the second (new) O-ring. this one is challenging me. any suggestions?

set my rear brake so I start to get shoe to drum contact when the pedal is depressed about 1 inch - not sure where exactly to set the adjustment. comments and feedback....
 
joe czech said:
set my drive chain at 1.25 - 1.50 with the bike on the center stand (no rider). too loose?
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Maybe. Take it off the stand and sit on it while someone else measures. Be sure and depress the brake pedal as you tighten the axle nut.

bummer - cush hub buffers - failed and missing - ???
 
kerinorton said:
I ended up cutting the 2 ribs off the main rubbers to enable the wheel to slide on easier. Those rubbers have been on my bike at least 8 years now. They have compressed a bit, with profile marks of the spigots obvious, but I still need to pull the wheel on over them from the right hand side of the bike.
Dereck
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Did you cut the ribs off with a knife or sand them down? I just received some new ones and will need to do this.
 
I just did this. Didn't cut anything. Lubed them and the pins with Silicone grease.
First assembly was work. After about a week or so, had to remove and reinstall for some reason, went back together nicely.
 
I have found mine to be much smoother with about an inch slack in the chain. Just replaced cushions last year and initially the wheel is a booger to install, but easy after run in. I tossed the homemade conveyor belt ones, but still have belting and they are easy enough to fab in a pinch should sources suddenly dry up as once before.
 
(not to change the subject) -- my primary case oil leak. this turned out to be a tough one, but I think I know what's going on, and it's NOT the O-ring seal. it seems to be coming out the stator wire hole in the inner primary case. now, this is just speculation on my part, but it's the only thing that makes sense. seems when mr. previous owner, installed an upgraded (alternator) stator, the feed wire was oriented in the wrong position. it never occurred to me, but this may be the cause of the leak. just about every pic I've seen on the stator installation, the feed wire comes off the stator in about the 5:00 position. the wire runs UP HILL and exits the case. mine was installed with the feed wire in about the 1:00-2:00 position and the wire travels DOWN HILL to exit the case. I speculate, that oil in the primary is "splashed" around in the case, some is deposited on the feed wire, and due to gravity, migrates down and exits the case through the wire opening. as I recall, there is no wire-to-case seal. does that make sense, or is it just wishful thinking on my part and i'm grabbing at straws. this leak is driving me nuts! :mad: if this is the case, chalk this one up to murphy's law....
 
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Okay... Mine runs downhill also and doesn't leak, or didn't. Anyway had primary apart and grommet which goes around wires at penetration was rock hard, so degrease and applied hi-temp RTV to ensure leaking not encouraged. You should have had a sealing, for lack of proper term, grommet in place which was likely tossed by PO. They're difficult to get in when hardened by age and RTV works well enough.
 
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Anyway a Norton has to leak a little bit or rust can get a foothold and you sure don't want that. I make sure mine has ample leaks as a preventative measure for this.
 
maylar said:
There should be a grommet around the wire, and as jb said it hardens and needs to be replaced occasionally. I always goop black RTV around the wire and grommet.
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found the grommet in the parts book (060903). looks to be some sort of sleeve grommet. mine was completely missing, and since the previous owner installed a new 200 amp stator, i'm thinking he didn't find it necessary, or completely missed it. I didn't want to wait for parts delivery, so found a regular sheetmetal grommet that fit the case, and "gooped" it up with Permatex "the right stuff" LSS, no leaks and it will do for now. still have some minor weeping at the exhaust rocker covers and the LH float bowl gasket. new problem, my new venhill speedometer cable failed at the rear wheel - had to re-crimp the ferrule to the cable - can't believe I actually had the correct tool for the job. wrapping up all these little jobs is a bit aggravating. my new cNw easy clutch pull kit was well worth the money. effortless two finger pull. anyway, went out for a ride today, and put about 10 mile on the bike before I ran out of gas. fired up cold on the second kick - this Norton needs choke, so i'm glad I installed the throttle and choke cables back to factory original. i'm done for the day. will gas up tomorrow, and visit a friend in St. Augustine - that should be a 50 mile round trip. after 7 years , baby steps....
 
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