BSA b44/50

It might have been enamel under there originally, did you spray polyurethane from a rattle can? Oops , you said Lacquer, so what kind of primer or prep did you use?
The paint was 2pack but the laquer was single pack from a rattle can
I prepared it with an anti silicone panel wipe
Cheers
 
Interesting that the transfer is unaffected. Sometimes transfers wrinkle when clear coat is applied. Would be interesting to know which kind of paint you used.
It's not actually a transfer it's a vinyl type,first time I've used this type I usually use the water slide transfer type
 
Back in the game
 

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Seriously, how did you do it? Just remove the lacquer? Or right back to bare metal?
 
I've been considering fitting a 389 monobloc to my project
The inlet port is 30 mm and the monobloc is 29.2 mm
Can't see .8 mm making much difference but I'm considering boring it out on my lathe to 30mm
Has anyone ever bored out a monobloc carb? Any issues? Cheers
 
I've been considering fitting a 389 monobloc to my project
The inlet port is 30 mm and the monobloc is 29.2 mm
Can't see .8 mm making much difference but I'm considering boring it out on my lathe to 30mm
Has anyone ever bored out a monobloc carb? Any issues? Cheers
Can't see that causing much of a problem. I wouldn't though. The internal profile of the carb is designed to create the all-important venturi pressure reduction (wot sucks the fuel out of the bowl).
There is slight risk of upsetting it.
Why not achieve the smooth transition by fettling your manifolds?
Cheers
 
I'd rather keep the carb as is, and get an AMAL ABF813 phenolic spacer 28 mm or similar.. They are 3/16 thick . Can easily been tapered for a smooth transition. Either by hand filing or in the lathe.
Or simply use a half round file to taper the carb.
 
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I'd rather keep the carb as is, and get an AMAL ABF813 phenolic spacer 28 mm or similar.. They are 3/16 thick . Can easily been tapered for a smooth transition. Either by hand filing or in the lathe.
Or simply use a half round file to taper the carb.
Good point! And wise to include an insulating spacer - even if only 4-5mm thick. Stops excessive heating of carbs.
 
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Still pushing on with this project
And I think I can use this bantam/C15? Seat
I'm going to take it apart,shape the pan to fit the frame
Then put the vinyl back on
Cheers
 

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Still pushing on with this project
And I think I can use this bantam/C15? Seat
I'm going to take it apart,shape the pan to fit the frame
Then put the vinyl back on
Cheers
Hi the seat does look very Bantam/C15
as it is. Hopefully you can bend a nice curve from the nose down towards the oil tank then back up over the rear mudguard like original, as long as the frame permits. Look forward to seeing it. How long do you think it will take?

Martin
 
The problem with the seat is shape of the frame I have tried an A10 seat on there and it's not even close
It'll be a few weeks until it's done
It's finding time to work on it that's the thing
 
I managed to start my engine 3 days ago ,I was very pleased that it fired up
No smoke no funny noises etc
But today I went out to the garage and there was a puddle of oil on the floor
The bike has wet sumped ,I had left the alternator inspection cover off and it has reached that level and leaked after 3 days!!
I will have to remove the timing cover and examine the ball and spring on the check valve
More work!!!!
 
On both B44 the check valve works, but the B40 wet sumps a lot. Tried to fix it with new ball and spring. And tried the usual tapping on the ball to seat it properly. Still a pint of oil per week. Any clue of what I did wrong?
 
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