Battery Terminal Wires Hot

elefantrider said:

... Wires not hot anymore.

Highbeam only works on right push button, not paddle lever?

Right side paddle lever UP turns on the headlamp.
Paddle down dis-activates the headlamp.

Bucket switch turns on/off headlamp.

Click to expand...

When the high beam works with the high beam flash button, that tells me that the wiring from the headlight dimmer switch to the headlight is good because the high beam flash circuit bypasses the headlight switch circuitry at the dimmer switch.

When the dimmer switch is selected to the low beam and the low beam light works, that tells me that the wiring from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch is good.

So my conclusion is that the high beam switch is faulty. Corrosion on the switch contact is probably the culprit. Also the tubular rivets that hold the switch assembly together serve as an electrical conductor, they too can get loose and corrode.

What I have done with my handlebar switches is to clean them really well then soldered the tubular rivets to the switch components. Finally, I used an anti-oxidant type grease on the switch contacts to protect them from future corrosion. If you ever decide to solder those tubular rivets make sure you clean everything really well and use a good flux so that you would spend very little time heating the copper rivets. Otherwise, you could easily melt the plastic switch frame.


Peter Joe

At least they are all working which is better than before when I was getting a faint pilot lamp only, no headlamp.
Now to get them working correctly with the handlebar switch cluster, that will take more sorting.

Also need to sort the horn, also not working.

Will follow Peter Joe's advice and clean the inside of the switch cluster, and see if I can get it to work when apart.

An new problem, maybe related. Battery does not stay charged. I do not believe it is parasitic loss, but possibly a charging issue.

I put a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running.
At idle up to 2500, the meter intermittently jumps all over the place, above and below the normal charged battery voltage at any given RPM.
I seem to remember, these bikes only charge when at sustained hwy speed, 3000-4000 RPMs?

Update. It's not a charging issue. Lights are dim because the hot battery wires are back again!!
It's not in the headlamp bucket because I've taken off the headlamp and the hot wires are still there.
Probably in the wiring under the tank somewhere or in the hand switch clusters. Will go through everything again today. :/

Are you using a positive ground yet ? Sounds to me you may have a ground issue, clean up all the ground wires and frame where they attach. Maybe make another ground wire from the battery to the frame. You may want to use a Jumper wire from the Battery (+) to frame if you are using the original positive ground ,when you turn the key on and the pilot light is dim.....connect the jumper wire and see if the pilot gets brighter.
Dim lights are a good indication of a bad ground as is erratic charging . Start by cleaning your Battery terminals and then the ground wires. Also clean your headlight switch good and then check it using an ohm meter to see if all switches are functioning properly.
Good luck and keep us posted.

Hi, did you check if you have a drain from your battery ? if yes do not forget to check that drain if any while unplugging the rec/reg , just because I had scratched my head a long time due to a brand "new /dead " , rec/reg ........have look too , to the rear brake bulb (21w ), unplugged the switch on the pedal ......keep us informed, good luck, you will find it....!

Individually, I unplugged front lamp, pilot lamp, rear brake, horn, rear brake switch, running out of ideas on what to unplug!!
Still hot and pilot dim.

I added an extra positive ground, no difference.
I bypassed the ignition switch, and connected all 3 wires. Sparks when the lights wire added in!
Something is drawing a lot of current.

How all lights could work one day and not the next has me perplexed.

Engine runs OK on ignition contact only so reluctant to tear into the ignition/charging system.
Will keep scratching my head until I find it.

So it seems that only the lights (front and/or rear ) are putting the mess , if it still had happened when unplugged the lamps , now it "could" (?) only be the wires relative to those lights .......but please try to take off the wires coming from the reg/rec (what kind of?) to the battery , even like this you start your engine with only the battery .....on watch !

Found it!
There was a faint clicking towards the rear of the bike when I connect the third wire.
Disassembled the zener diode to clean. Then, disasembled the rear tail light assembly.
Found a lose ground wire bolt there.
Reassembled, and got full lights again. And no sparks when the third ignition wire (lights) is connected to the other 2.

Thanks all!

Nice to hear , now you can offer you a good beer (or whatever you want) to celebrate that happy end for 2018........!

For sure! Just in time for an end of year beer and an end of year ride tomorrow.

http://socalnorton.com/wp/

Real good to hear. I thought it was a ground problem...glad you found it