Ball hone recommendation?

Last time I re-ringed the Norton (73 850) I used 320 grit sandpaper to achieve what looked to my lay eyes to be a serviceable cross-hatch. Not that many miles later and I'm doing the whole top end including pistons and rings, and the crosshatch appears to be completely gone.

Thinking of using a ball hone chucked into a hand drill this time. Last time I got queasy about that but willing to give it a shot this time.

Words of wisdom from folks about general advisability, size/grit/brand to use, and/or any other tips?

Tx - BK

I used a 3" Flex-Hone ball hone and their honing oil in a hand drill. Watched some videos first to determine the speed and technique. My cylinders came out perfect.

2WheelsUp said:

I used a 3" Flex-Hone ball hone and their honing oil in a hand drill. Watched some videos first to determine the speed and technique. My cylinders came out perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XUL0X6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007INQHEU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Click to expand...

Thank you. What grit did you use? And that 3", was for an 850, yes? My pistons are .020 oversize, so 77.5mm, which is slightly over 3" and that hone says for up to 3". Perhaps small enough difference but there it is. Tx - B

Brian, What happened that your re-ringing did not last and you had to do the whole top end?
Dennis

Not sure. The exhaust ports got knackered so the head had to come off to get those repaired. For all that disassembly/reassembly, might as well have Leo Goff work his magic and be done with it; from his review, it seems it was indicated.

Leo noticed a lot of oil residue in the exhaust ports and took a look at a photo of my piston tops and diagnosed ring issues (clean areas along the circumferences of the pistions vs the carboned-up centers). So - new pistons and rings, ain't muckin' about here....! Bike had unknown mileage before coming to me, but was on first oversize pistons already so either got used quite a bit, or abused, or both.

The expense hurts, but the labor, particularly bending over and doing this by myself (a good stand and five hands would be preferable....) makes me want to make this one and done.

I thought I was pretty careful last time around but I'm a bit (!) of a hacker so could well be user error. I don't have the tools to measure bore so hoping that's not it....

PS. I still have the honing oil but THREW OUT the brand new ball hone I bought and never used last time (don't remember size/grit; I'm sure I researched it - I should check my old posts, probably got some advice here). Got sick of tripping over it (so to speak) in the garage. And I was never gonna use it, right....?!?!

320 grit was too fine, 180 to 220 would suit the cast rings better and the air cooled barrel with different temp zones.

Just had my bores done and was surprised how fine the hone was. They are a race shop and say that the Hepolite rings are chrome which calls for a finer hone. I have asked them the grit used but no reply yet
Any thoughts? The last thing I want is rings not bedded in and having to pull it apart
Dennis

BrianK said:

Thank you. What grit did you use? And that 3", was for an 850, yes? My pistons are .020 oversize, so 77.5mm, which is slightly over 3" and that hone says for up to 3". Perhaps small enough difference but there it is. Tx - B

Click to expand...

The link I gave you is the exact one I used... 240 grit. Yes, this was for an 850 with .020 over. It was a perfect size.

Flexy hones (ball or otherwise) are just glazes busters. They will not correct a worn bore, a tapered bore, an oval bore or a combination of same. The type of hone to used is similar (or same) to the Delapena pattern of cylinder hone. Unfortunately these types of honing tools are quite expensive. A rebore and hone of your cylinder block is really what is required now.
You need to measure the cylinders with a bore comparitor (bore gauge) and check for ovality, taper and overall wear down the full length of the bore.

If Leo has your cylinders, I'd have him do it. He did some head work for me and I showed him my cylinders so he could measure them. I had already honed them, all good but he recommended slightly honing them again to ensure they have proper crosshatch depth and angle.

dobba99 said:

Flexy hones (ball or otherwise) are just glazes busters. They will not correct a worn bore, a tapered bore, an oval bore or a combination of same. The type of hone to used is similar (or same) to the Delapena pattern of cylinder hone. Unfortunately these types of honing tools are quite expensive. A rebore and hone of your cylinder block is really what is required now.

Click to expand...

Exactly, that's why I would recommend Leo measure his cylinders to ensure they are in spec and suitable for a ball hone as well as the .020 oversized pistons.

Who ever done your bores and what rings were being used should know what hone you need, so put you trust in their advice if they done the honing, most rebores do know their stuff.
The most important thing is how much oil you put in the bores when assembling your motor and running in your rings, too much oil and the rings won't bed in, when I assemble my motors I only put min of oil around the rings while on the pistons and leave the bore dry, has worked for me and on other Norton motors I have rebuilt.

One Commando motor I rebuilt the top end the owner had done a rebore but when he assembled the motor he drowned the bores and pistons with oil and when he did the few hundred miles the ring hadn't bedded in and his bores were glazed, all I did was replaced the rings, gave the bores a very light hone and very little oil on the new ring when assembling, as far as I know the Norton ran without smoking for years after till the owner sold it on.

If done right new rings don't take long to bed in and trust your oil pump to lube the motor when running, rings be well bedded in before the first 500 miles are up.

Ashley