Atlas OEM High Pressure Rocker Oil Line

jms

jms

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Hi All
Happy New Year. I've gotten myself to a point where things are beginning to come together. As part of all of the bits and pieces that I received over a year ago the attached oil line was included. I was surprised that it wasn't copper. It's magnetic so some sort of steel? Here's the question, in order to get it into the correct configuration can I
simply bend it cold or does it need to be heated? Also with the current offerings for these lines is it even smart to use this? How did they hold up to vibration?
 

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jms said:
Hi All
Happy New Year. I've gotten myself to a point where things are beginning to come together. As part of all of the bits and pieces that I received over a year ago the attached oil line was included. I was surprised that it wasn't copper. It's magnetic so some sort of steel? Here's the question, in order to get it into the correct configuration can I
simply bend it cold or does it need to be heated? Also with the current offerings for these lines is it even smart to use this? How did they hold up to vibration?
Click to expand...


jms; From your picture, am I correct that 'original' is not what you are going for? Why not put on a braided stainless line? Mark
 
Northern Norton Nut said:
jms; From your picture, am I correct that 'original' is not what you are going for? Why not put on a braided stainless line? Mark
Click to expand...
Yea that's correct. The problem with the stainless braided type is that they don't seem to be made for Atlas's. The Commando one's are much to long on the short leg of the hose. Oddly Venhill doesn't offer stainless 5/16 banjo's nor does HEL. I think Goodridge does but the 600 series re-usable fittings are frightfully expensive. I'm checking with Norvil to see what they have but they are closed for the holidays. Andover Norton doesn't provide them for Dommies either
 
jms said:
Yea that's correct. The problem with the stainless braided type is that they don't seem to be made for Atlas's. The Commando one's are much to long on the short leg of the hose. Oddly Venhill doesn't offer stainless 5/16 banjo's nor does HEL. I think Goodridge does but the 600 series re-usable fittings are frightfully expensive. I'm checking with Norvil to see what they have but they are closed for the holidays. Andover Norton doesn't provide them for Dommies either
Click to expand...
If you would be comfortable with the process, altering braided lines is not all that hard. The pieces are common and available at any hydraulic shop. I do my own from parts. As the Atlas is shorter on the crossover shortening a Commando item would only need new end parts. A shop might do it all for you and local.
 
I use the Commando piping on my Atlas. The excess loop can be oriented forward or back (I go forward and slightly to one side). With heat you can remove the banjos and refit the tubing after cutting to length, I have read. I’ve never taken the time to do it and have left as is with no problems.

The metal piping works but can be subject to vibration and age. I use the original on my Dominator and have had to repair it a couple times with solder at the joints.
 
I just shorted the cross-over pipe from a regular Commando for use on my P11, been on there for many years, never had a leak. I have a braided unit on the shelf with the correct T shape, don’t know who made it, but the main tube is too short by a couple inches, have to get around to replacing that portion to make it useful.
 
kernel65 said:
I use the Commando piping on my Atlas. The excess loop can be oriented forward or back (I go forward and slightly to one side). With heat you can remove the banjos and refit the tubing after cutting to length, I have read. I’ve never taken the time to do it and have left as is with no problems.

The metal piping works but can be subject to vibration and age. I use the original on my Dominator and have had to repair it a couple times with solder at the joints.
Click to expand...
I'm doing that repair myself. My project 56 Domi 88 has a leak at the fitting at the oil tank. It looked like the tank side fitting was twisted when tightening the return line. I removed the tank fitting cleaned and repaired the pipe and banjo, put it back together without soldering it so I could mark both the banjo and pipe and hopefully keep it from twisting again.
 
Two things I did with the metal piping at the advice of TexasSlick. I used Dowty washers at that junction and simply heated the joint which flowed the original solder back around the joint, sealing it.
 

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