Anyone using RK SV530UVR narrow o-ring chain on their Norton? New product for vintage bikes using standard 530.

kommando said:

Spray with WD40 periodically and wipe, more to clean than lube and stops the chain going rusty

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I have been told WD40 sprayed on an o-ring chain is a bad idea. The solvents in WD40 wash the grease out of the chain, shortening its life. I just wipe down with a small amount of WD40 moistening the rag and then brush down well to remove road grime/grit and very lightly coat with 90W gear oil on a rag to avoid rusting.

I use WD40 spray to clean the chain, work it in with an old toothbrush, then rubbing clean with an old but clean cloth, then I brush on gear oil with a 1/2" paint brush. I have the IWIS from Jason the Chain Man, so the WD40 isn't washing anything out behind o-rings. I do it once a year and then apply 20W50 from an old squirter oil can, every other ride and WD40 on the chrome wheel, to clean off fling. I haven't had to adjust the chain in 5,000 miles and no rust.

A couple of side benefits:
- I don't seem to get as much gloop around the drive sprocket as I did with chain lubes;
- My rear wheel stays in good condition too!

Jason the Chain Man for vastly superior IWIS .
Don't lube using WD40 penetrant . Washing out road grit only .
Gear oil 80/ 90 for the lube .
Amazing mileage on mine and I do a lot of kilometers .
Enjoy .

I have used several of the new rk uwr chains and am very happy with them. One is currently on an 850mk2. And I am probably a chain geek since I have one in 415 size on my triumph tiger cub.

As I recall, at least one of rk or did specifically approve wd40 for the maintenance of their x ring chains. I normally use a purpose build chain lube but only reapply every thousand miles or so when the outer of the chain looks dry. It is only for rust prevention and lubrication of the sprocket surfaces and does nothing for the chain rollers.

I usually adjust the chain once if needed after about a 500 mile brake in and then, on new sprockets, if it needs adjusting again, I will do it once again and acquire a new chain and replace it the next time it needs adjustment, to save and reuse the sprockets. Once the second chain starts to go I will readjust for a while since I will put on new sprockets with the third chain, repeating the process. In this way chain adjustment is not even an annual process and lubing only a couple times a year unless a very long trip is undertaken.

I use a did chain tool and standard rivet master links and do not think they are difficult to install.

Best to all, M

I have used several of the new rk uwr chains and am very happy with them. One is currently on an 850mk2. Another is a 415 I am using on my Triumph Tiger Cub. I confess to being a bit of a chain geek.

As I recall, at least one of rk or did specifically approve wd40 for the maintenance of their x ring chains. I normally use a purpose build chain lube but only reapply every thousand miles or so when the outer of the chain looks dry. It is only for rust prevention and lubrication of the sprocket surfaces and does nothing for the chain rollers.

I usually adjust the chain once if needed after about a 500 mile brake in and then, on new sprockets, if it needs adjusting again, I will do it once, acquire a new chain and replace it the next time it needs adjustment. The chain would last longer but it is hard on the sprockets and I change early to save and reuse the sprockets. Once the second chain starts to go I will readjust for a while since I will put on new sprockets with the third chain, repeating the process.

I therefore adjust a chain well less than once a year and only lube once or twice a year. In truth however, my long distance miles are on bikes with shaft drive so most chain bikes do less than a thousand a year.

I have a DID chain tool and use standard rivet links. With the right tool I have never had any problem with them.

Best to all, M

One of the strengths/weaknesses of D.I.D. gold chains is it’s easy to see when they’re dirty but look great when new.

My routine every 3-400 miles or after a very wet ride is to use a water soluble degreaser such as Simple Green or from the cycling world, MTB chain cleaner then rinse with low pressure water. After drying with a blower I apply a quantity of WD40 to a gloved hand and pull the chain through being sure that each roller spins freely. 10 min job with perfect results and no mess/fling.