Alternator Output

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swooshdave

swooshdave

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As discussed I'm electrically ignorant. Can someone help out here.

Weatherpack connectors are limited to 20amp.

A new Sparx alternator is, I believe 180 watts. At 12 volts. Is it 180/12 to get amps?

Should there be any problems with a 20 amp limit on the wires from the alternator to the rectifier?
 
Yes, I=P/E. If you are putting out 180 W, it's most likely at closer to 14 V so more like 13 A. 20 A connectors should be fine, but for sure more like 26 A, but you'd have to go to 30 A. Keep an eye on them and see if any of them get hot. That's the clue. Chances are you won't be putting anywhere near 13 A through them for any length of time unless somethings wrong.

Dave
69S
 
DogT, likes to trick others into electrical traps, not telling ya a new Sparx with good magnet rotor is good for 210 watts 3 phase so better upgrade to 30 amp sockets to avoid burning up another over charging Cdo : )
 
210/14 is still only 15A and the connectors are probably under rated at 20A. But if it makes you feel better, a 30A connector, but probably only in the battery/charger circuit or where ever you are likely to see that amount of current.

Dave
69S
 
The 20A rating should be per conducter, It's also AC from the stator, so that might affect the rating also. You should be well under the limit for them.
 
It's just that design engineers usually double the capacity, just for drill.

Dave
69S
 
Duh, DogT and swoosh, I thought you'd enjoy me jerking your chains teasing about an Over Charging Cdo, so got my kix putting my self in your minds wondering if 20 A connector would heat and melt or just restrict the wimpy amps to handle. If you want to become more intimate with a Cdo's charging system character, put in a tiny battery and a volt meter, then pretend you are a 'puterized black box keeping track of charging time vs discharging, to restart after next shut down. Its worth knowing how long you can idle with and w/o lights on before juice drops below ignition firing right. After dark trapped in slow rainy traffic on brake a lot is the worse condition even 210 watt Sparx, mostly near idle rpm, ain't going to keep up eventually.

Lucus has the best off the shelf compact connectors going as allows passing through primary hole to separate the stator from the Al case, repeatedly for decades. After many ugh-ly learning curves on ole Peel I ended up just wire nutting the leads. Next time she'll connect via those plastic cylinders with screw caps at each end. The smaller versions fit under 'point' covers too.
 
If SD put ammeters in all his wires, he'd probably find that 98% of the time he is passing less than 5A, unless he has that 10A LED rear lamp on.

Dave
69S
 
Kind of like getting a raise, you then tend to spend more till always about as broke. Bad charge connectors cause cause insidious symptoms before discovery so make em good so no stall out black outs just applying mild brake and snappy spark next kicking off.
 
Interestingly hobot brings up a great point, is you change from the Lucas bullet connectors how are you going to get the wires out through the primary case? Well, good question.

Like I've mentioned the Weatherpacks are great for exposed connection such as the alternator wires. But if you had to remove the alternator you'd have to disassemble the Weatherpack. Not impossible and probably worth the hassle.
 
If you discuss 3 phase that means 3 wires to carry the current.
!5 amps total out of the rectifier... means 5 amps AVERAGE per leg. or if you prefer 15 amps peak for 1/3 of the time ie 33% duty cycle per wire.
 
I'm installing my Sparx 3 phase & Reg/rec with those Posilock connectors. You just unscrew the ends and the wire is free to slide through the primary or any other hole and then you just screw them back togeather to reconnect. Never used them before but they seem like a great idea.
 
I could not find the picture of the double ended Posti-Twists but they are the best option for re-usable connector that don't wear out with use, but not as nice and streamlines as good ole Lucus bullets. Lucas downside is attaching the wire end terminals by just crimping instead of factory jig solder too.
 
No auto or motorcycle manufacture solders wire connections. To do so is to invite trouble.
 
Go look close at the Lucas factory terminals, solder on end of wires. I was not saying to solder the charge wires connection but I'm sorely temped too with some low melt alloy i've on hand. Melts at water boil temp so hair dryer could do em on and off. Another alternative is just twist em together well and hold tiddy by heat shrink.
 
My Lucas bullets were soldered on as well as crimped, but minimal solder.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
My Lucas bullets were soldered on as well as crimped, but minimal solder.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

So you two are saying that because Lucas soldered their wires it's a good idea?

Let me get this right... Lucas.

The LUCAS.

Prince of Darkness and all...
 
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