adhesive question

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It depends somewhat on what type of bond you want. If flexibilty is more important than absolute strength, my choice would be 3M weatherstrip adhesive. If bond strength is more important than flexibility I would look at an epoxy such as JB Weld or possibly a moisture cure urethane like Gorilla Glue.
 
Not sure about plastic to rubber but for rubber to rubber and vinyl to steel, I have found Pliobond contact cement to be very good
 
De-icer boots are bonded to kevlar leading edges of aircraft wings with contact cement. 3M if my memory serves. It's been over 20 years. Tony
 
gorilla glue? jesus, people slap that shit on anything. i just shake my head when people talk about it. oh by the way, it's going to expand so your going to HAVE TO CLAMP IT i tell the stupid people. but they insist and buy it anyways because it was on tv and has an uber cool gorilla on the bottle too. i like the magic putty too, billy mayes yells how fucking amazing and revolutionary it is when manufactures have been making it for ages, ha.

sorry end of rant, wasn't intended to offend anyone
 
Depends a lot on the application...but good old aquarium cement...aka 100% silicone works great for a lot of stuff. I have used a product called Lexel, looks like silicone but is copolymer (whatever the F that means) with really good results for sticking stuff together. Both work best when the fit up is good, the surfaces are fairly large and flat and you can leave a good film between the pieces. You want to stick toothpicks end to end...not so great.

http://www.sashcosealants.com/Home_Impr ... Lexel.aspx


PS-Gorilla glue actually does kick ass for wood but I prefer the Elmer's variety as it is more vicsous thus easier to spread and clamp. If you want a flexible urathane glue get Aquaseal. Available at most sporting goods stores.

http://www.cabelas.com/p-0005516810247a.shtml
 
yea elmers sells a polyurethane glue which is the same stuff as gorilla glue, amber color too. my wood shop teacher told me years ago that it was "super glue" of wood, and it makes sense. you wet the wood to open the pores and the glue expands and forces itself in.

i would not recommend gasgacinch, it's a gasket dressing and remains tacky like permatex hi-tack, its just designed to hold them in place not seal
 
Here's the application....
I bought these red handgrips, and I want to convert them to foot pegs. I've cut them down and sanded them. They are made out of a plastic like skateboard wheels. I'm going to cut the rubber down on the pegs so the red can slide over them. My main concerns are I don't want them coming off... and - I don't want to use something that doesn't work, and have to worry about removing faulty adhesive to try a 2nd adhesive.
adhesive question
 
A Doctor of Engineering gave me this tip, perhaps no good for this application.

An unlubricated condom and super glue; Super glue the laytex between the components and hold together for 30 seconds or more.

Honestly and it works, especially on broken cases. I've never tried it on a stressed component but it lasted for over 15 years on a Lathe gearbox cover.

I can still remember the embarasment going to Boots with a works order number for unlubricated condoms. :oops:

Cash
 
If the tolerances are close you are gonna have to find a glue that is slippery when wet and then cures to form the bond, in the meantime you will have to be careful not to push all the glue off when forcing them together.

Since I am the dictionary under "over engineered", I would probably cut some channels in the rubber that would allow the goop to get a grab on it and then sand paper the dickens out of the inside of the cover to give it a rough surface. Then I would chose something like that Lexel or Aquaseal.

You could even drill a small hole in the bottom of the cover to relieve air that will trap in there and then put a bunch of goop into it when you push it on...this would ensure no air trapped and then the goop being forced out the hole would give you a "rivet" of sorts.

Maybe an experimental piece that you can then torture to test the bond?
 
cash said:
Honestly and it works, especially on broken cases. I've never tried it on a stressed component but it lasted for over 15 years on a Lathe gearbox cover.

Cash
Click to expand...

This is interesting! What was the case made out of? If I understand correctly the latex is providing a thin film between the two components being glued? Any idea what function it serves if the glue is gonna stick to the component?

Been lookin' for an excuse to buy some condoms...I wonder if the store across from the high school has unlubed ones...
 
GavinJuice said:
gorilla glue? jesus, people slap that shit on anything. i just shake my head when people talk about it. oh by the way, it's going to expand so your going to HAVE TO CLAMP IT i tell the stupid people. but they insist and buy it anyways because it was on tv and has an uber cool gorilla on the bottle too. i like the magic putty too, billy mayes yells how fucking amazing and revolutionary it is when manufactures have been making it for ages, ha.

sorry end of rant, wasn't intended to offend anyone
Click to expand...

I like rants so cary on. :D
 
Gday Pelican, did you know that you can turn rubber on a lathe if the rubber part is thrown into the freezer ( or left out side for an hour in some climates). Ive done this a few times to cut a new seat on valves etc to get me outa trouble when a newy isnt available or the shops are shut! But in your case, Im geussing your going to clean the pegs up with a sharp knife and wire wheel to fit those fast red ones.
Cash, thats an interesting tip about the frangers and supa glue, you wouldnt wanna be like the newly weds who got their window putty and vasaline mixed up............ their windows fell out! Mmmmm.... hate to think if the glue was swapped for KY gel?
Rgds Foxy :lol:
 
Perhaps Pliobond? That stuff has worked well for me in applications I'd be embarassed to talk about...no not that, condom-minded folks, but mechanical issues that have resulted from, um, "overexuberance" on my part....
 
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