A Lesson Re-Learned

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69 fastback with original isolastics. The rubber bushes were intact however literally fused to the tube; almost like they was Vulcanized to the tube. There was no drifting them out of there. Lesson: Do NOT dig them out with a sharp pocket knife which lacks a locking blade! Re-learned the hard way, again. Also, there is not a lower limit on the information you can give on any repair subject. i.e., When you advise to upgrade to MK III isos.......go a little further and include: you will also need to purchase the MK III front tube. Ha!

Also, can someone advise the best way to pull the timing-side case before I get out my pocket knife again?!

thanks
 
Ah So Rod, as age 11 was given and new pocket knife and went right out and stabbed a tree with it - folded up slicing off tip of L 3rd finger at 30' angle though the nail. Still got a slightly sharper bird finger to remind me. I've had one set of cushioned fused to the tube which prevents the normal in bike method of renewal others can get by with. The adjustable iso's require ~ 1/4" slice off the RH side of front iso tube, which took me days of travel to shop after shop in NW Arkansas to finally find a tool die maker in the woods now far from me to get it done, with some trial error fitting so two trips in my case. For such a simple machine it sure is complicated to get one fully fettered, for as long as that may last.

Last time I got bad slice was up on ladder stripping hardened insulation off 240 v line to reconnect to shed an ice storm took down, telling myself you are not going to slip - you are not going to slip, ZIp to lay open 5th finer right through the last kunckle about 1/3 its depth. Had to get down d/t blood too sticky to work with and expected long lasting pain but wrapped a thin rubber flexable magnet around it and the deep joint pain dissapeared. Had long shopping tirp next day bandaid kept blood in but ok to grip wheel and items - until got home 8 hr later and grabbed a bad full of cans to rip open wound + deep joint stab pain, put back magnet ring and it got comfy in 10 min and let magnet on-off few more days and no more pain - unless I probed to make sure I'd really sliced it deeply, YEP it hurt that way but not otherwise. Burns too with a gauze so not to stick works a treat too. Baylor found the static weak magnet flux caused local cappilary beds to open and close and not just dry up or swell up with stagnat blood flow. Effect can take hours on bad injury but after a day or so can remove and effect lasts most of a day more - which can fool ya and awake crippled/swollen- till magnets back on and kept on for days till crisis past.
 
RedApe53 said:
When you advise to upgrade to MK III isos.......go a little further and include: you will also need to purchase the MK III front tube. Ha!

I used a set of RGM isolastics which fit the stock 71 front tube fine,a set designed for a Mk3 would need the shorter tube to suit them.
Most of the vernier kits available are to suit the earlier front mount without modification. (unless it is a 75 model)
:?:
 
Also, can someone advise the best way to pull the timing-side case before I get out my pocket knife again?!

assume you are asking about removing the actual right side timing cover ?

after removing all of the fastening screws you can try to tap around the cover with a rubber mallet to see if that will loosen it enough for you to get it off

if that doesn't loosen it up, then maybe try to work a one sided razor blade between the cover and gasket
 
i always said that if you don't bleed you didn't do it right. john, i'm thinking that my timing chain tensioner needs to be looked at, hoping I confused that noise with the valve noise I always bitched about. attempting the front iso. parts in on Tuesday from OB. I'll put on the DT head stay too. More Rolling Stones and brandy maybe? lost your # with the washing of my phone last month.

I took the case screws out and wailed on it with a rubber mallet already..... so the razor blade it is! and hope I find good things in there, it'd be nice to have it quiet down some; tho it runs fine.

Time....had a chance to go to Australia with the USN in 1974, however, port visits to Perth were scrubbed so we could chase Russian submarines from the equator to north of japan, instead. (odd it auto-capped Russian and not japan?) Stories of the "friendlies" down there were rampant thru the ship........are they true? ha!
 
REDAPE,
Did you take the ignition system off before you whacked on the timing cover?
YING
 
uh, no. doesn't sound good for me, they didn't seem intimately attached. Going with the razor blade though to avoid any chance. thanks
 
10 screws IIRC, ignition system and its lead, oil pump seal striction and gasket goop adhesion all the hold cover on. Heat the seam area till oil vapors to soften the grip and maybe 3/8" wood chisel plus pounding praying, as the gasket is certain thickness to proper space oil seal and razors may just bottom out without really wedge case off just displacing crushing gasket. Still not bad idea cut gasket in many places as possible before escalating. Screw drivers too blunt and can leave wedge marks. I've got two cute little carpentry type pry bars 1/2" wide with thin blade I can work down in seam from opposite sides to help pry straighter farther out each attempt.

A Lesson Re-Learned

https://www.google.com/search?q=pry%20b ... 4634475310
 
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