Crank position sensor - This one has caused us many issues. Matt Capri shared with us he found many of them in the wrong position. So I guess I mis-typed here. Nothing wrong with the sensor it self. More the position of it or the screws being loose and needing tightening.
Head temp sensor - This one is delicate and breaks easy if you're cleaning your bike and you twist it. This is a combo of issues. In some of the bikes we've seen they use knock off sensors (fakes) that just simply burned them selves out because they were not up to par with such a hot environment. Others from human error. If you knock it or twist it you can break the internal connection. We played around with different sensors that showed to work faster or read more accurate but it had zero influence on the actual bike running or idling. And if there was a difference it wasn't worth it for the street.
Air temp sensor - Only issue with this is the airbox design.
When riding in rain it drowns so make sure to use dielectric grease and try not to ride in the rain. No known issues with the sensor itself causing any troubles. You do have to clean them with rubbing alcohol every once in a while because as they get dirty the give false readings. Not sure if it makes a huge difference but we notice after you clean it the bike seems better but nothing to calibrate if it really does anything.
Oil pressure sensor - No issues to report from us
Throttle position sensor- This is the sensor I wish I had when I rode out to North Carolina. This ruined half my trip there. There was a batch of these that were garbage. Even brand new ones replaced from the factory were garbage. On one bike we swapped it out twice with other customers brand new bikes trying to find one that worked. The main issue is flat spots. It cuts out fuel at the most frequently used areas of use. So when you do a very long trip (say 8+hrs) the sensor wears and make s flat spot in teh power. And if my dad and I swapped the error would move. Maybe because cable adjustments or riding style. We had enough of these fail for the first few years we stopped buying from Norton and sourced from a Mercedes dealer or distributor. I forget now. Any how, Norton must have got a better batch (could have been knock offs) as this really only seemed to affect 2013 and 2014 bikes. Because I haven't heard of this issue on any other years.
Lamba sensors - We use those resistors and the issues go away. I think the issue was more with the CATS clogging up internally. As we just discovered. But We have had so many issues with LAMBDA sensors on all years. Pull them out and use resistors. I'll never go back.
IGNITION COIL - The factory ones used to be fake BOSCH. Get the real one and issues are gone. Also et better wires. and use NGK Iridiums.
CAM SENSOR - So this one caused us issues on more than a couple bikes. It is the exact same sensor as the speed sensor. And also plays a part in a flat spot. We shared this with the factory and they sent me about 5 new sensors and I was able to label each sensor and move the flat spot around and also could repeat poor starting and poor idle by using a specific sensor. I believe the factory dealt with it and again, this was on 2014 bikes only. Since I found a good sensor (from factory) I've continued to use it with out any issues.
ECU - Might as well add this too. Ever since I started using the OMEX --- wow, night and day difference. Hence why we made the brackets as Norton didn't make them for single seat bikes. It's plug and play. Of course we can program ours ourselves, so if you can't, make sure to buy one pre-programmed for you set up.
