850 low RPM

The OLD WAY shade tree way of getting max performance was to advance the timing until you would get pinging under full load and then back the timing 2 degrees! Worked great...and still does for conventional (non computer-controlled) engines. Only issue was (is) that if you did it that way you needed to use the same octane rating (or higher) for every fill up. I run 3 degrees more timing than stock on my '76 Honda CB400F using premium fuel. Runs noticeably stronger! :)
 
Nigel, didn't you ever do your own tuneups on older vehicles? When setting the timing didn't you rotate the distributor a long way just to see what would happen?
Sure did.

Still do!

Can’t recall it ever causing the kind of change we’re talking about though (bumping idle up to 2k).
 
The 850s I work with all have the same problem.......when shutting off the throttle, the motor is slow to reach an idle. This occurs from 3000 downward and actually seems like the slide is slow to return. With a 750 this doesn't happen. At around 2500 there is a "shudder" and it's become annoying passing through this point every time. Most 850s I work with have a single Mikuni, and I don't remember if the problem exists with dual amals. So what kind of carburetion do you have and do you experience this? I've tried different pilot jets and different slides with no real change. Currently I use the same jetting as the 750 which works well. The slide is a #3. I consider it slightly lean but a 2.5 will foul plugs quicker but gives better low end response...a compromise.
Is it possible that the balance factor for an 850 using isolastics produces this small problem? My next idea is perhaps the motor would benefit from a pair of JS lightweight pistons and the shudder will possibly disappear.
To sum up...is it a carb problem or a reciprocating mass problem?
Are you sure it's not just a case of the slide hanging up due to engine vacuum at lower revs?
When I had a vm36 fitted to my 750 it used to do exactly that
I cured it by fitting an amal spring inside the mikuni one
 
The 33mm FCRs return to a smooth idle right now. They match your throttle position like fuel injection. I've used all brands of carbs and these run the cleanest.
 
The OLD WAY shade tree way of getting max performance was to advance the timing until you would get pinging under full load and then back the timing 2 degrees! Worked great...and still does for conventional (non computer-controlled) engines. Only issue was (is) that if you did it that way you needed to use the same octane rating (or higher) for every fill up. I run 3 degrees more timing than stock on my '76 Honda CB400F using premium fuel. Runs noticeably stronger! :)
In the early 80’s I used to own A Hillman Hunter GLS. The engines were tuned by a company called Holbay engineering. It was equipped with two twin Weber DCOE carbs, and required 5 star petrol (100+ octane). This was already not easily available unfortunately. Setting the ignition timing at the correct full advance meant it went like stink, but the pinking was unbearable, so I used exactly the method you mentioned Mike. It was a real shame, as the loss in performance was very noticeable. I don’t think octane boosters were a thing back then.
 
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