750 Combat Break in recommendation

Looking for input on running in - 750 Combat - original cam , cam bushes ,followers .
original pistons ,wrist pins , bores . Bores honed - new rings.
new bearings everywhere. New big end shells standard & journals original. New rod bolts .New crank bolts.
Cylinder head has original rockers , rocker bushes . New valves and all ancillaries - seats lapped. New oil pump.
What is common consensus on max rpm & mileage for running in all this stuff ?
Oil & filter change @ 100 miles ?
re torque head regimen ?

DON’T LET IT GET REALLY HOT.
RIDE IT, (don’t parade pussy ride it) include some 3-5 second roll-ons.
Re-torque after a few heat cycles. Check the valve lash.
Change the oil after a few hundred miles.

Full run in is about 1500 miles, drop the oil at the first 500 miles, depend on what head gasket if copper just re-torque at 500 miles and re adjust the valves, the main thing not to do is labour the motor when running it in, the first 100 miles is when the rings will bed in, I have done this with every motor rebuild and have never had any problems, I use copper head gaskets, the fiber head gaskets might need re-torqueing more.

Ashley

All you need to do with that engine is get the rings to bed in
Put some running in oil in or cheap supermarket oil and take it out and thrash it
But don't hold it at very high revs for long periods
Keep tightening the head until it won't tighten any more
Change the oil, adjust the tappets and enjoy

Also retorque the exhaust nuts after each heat up until you can’t tighten them anymore. No need to use lock rings, springs or security em wires if you do this. Also when you want to loosen them heat it up again.

Here's mine
I use Castrol Go 20w/50 Motorcycle oil which is dino and rated SG. Don't use an oil rated higher than SG as they have friction reducers and the rings won't seat
First start run for about 5 minutes or so stationary so that engine is brought up to operating temp, don't let it idle keep between 2-3k revs, shut off, tighten exhaust nuts. Let cool, retighten base nuts, retorque head bolts, check valve lash.
Have timining light set up, start up, warm up a bit, check timing, do rough adjust on carbs but don't waste time fine tuning. Get on the bike and ride about 10 miles. Vary throttle, don't ride at on speed. Speed up slow down going up and down gears. Max rpm 3500. Don't lug it or wack the throttle open from low rpms. Retighten exhaust nuts
Start taking increasing longer rides again varying load. Keep tightening exhaust nuts until you can't.
At 100 miles change oil and filter with same oil, retighten base nuts, retorque head bolts, check valve lash.
Keep riding and gradually increasing rpm. You will be able to feel the engine gradually free up.
At 1000 miles change oil and filter and switch to synthetic if you use it, retighten base nuts, retorque head bolts, check valve lash.
Engine should be broken in at this point follow your regular maintenance schedule.

Basically, just ride it normally. But do consciously take the revs up occasionally at first, more frequently as you get miles on it.

Whilst I get the logic behind running in oils and wouldn’t argue against them, I’ve never used them, and have not had any issues as a result (that I know of). My worry is that whilst fewer friction additives may be good for bedding rings... what about cam, followers, bearings, etc?

A bigger concern is to ensure checking and tightening of ALL fasteners, especially ex roses, and an OCD checking and tightening of the cylinder head fasteners, do this until they need it no more (probably somewhere between 500 and 1000 miles if you used ‘book’ torque figures).