67 Atlas clutch

N0rt0nelectr@ said:

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I am trying to post pictures of the clutch modification. Check it out, what a very clever man Heinz was.

John in Texas

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I can see why this would be an easy two finger clutch. I am looking at those spring retainer nuts .... back them off any more and they might just pop off the studs!

A close look at your photobucket pics seems to show the tabs on the plain steel plates are also machined at 19 deg. The basket then cams against the tabs which tends to force the plain plates deeper into the basket. The cam action is assisted by the springs and the clamp force is thus augmented. Any other modifications not seen in the photos? Tell us more.


Slick

My friend who has the clutch says that the nuts and springs are there to hold it together not to give any pressure to the plates.
Next time I see him I will try and get a ride on the bike.

John in Texas

texasSlick said:

wjrich said:

Clutch assembly is per the book- five double sided friction plates, 5 sintered plain, and 1 1-sided plate.

If I can get the primary cover to actually seal, I can report back on the ATF v oil discussion...

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Bond a new thick rubber gasket to the inner cover using RTV.
Smear a coat of RTV on the outer cover flange, from half way up one end, across the bottom, and half way up the other end.
Apply a generous bead of RTV to the edge of the thick rubber gasket half way up and across bottom as described for the cover flange. Apply a generous bead to the shoulder of the primary cover - the shoulder is where the sealing flange steps up to meet the edge of the thick gasket when the cover is pressed on.
Tap the cover on with a rubber mallet. Do not over-tighten the big central nut - 2 to 3 exposed threads is sufficient. It goes without saying, the parts should be clean and oil free before applying RTV.


Slick-

Where did you get your new rubber gasket? The old beat up one I pulled off had a flange, the new one (I've had it laying around for a while and can't remember where I bought it) did not have a flange.

I think I got my rubber gasket from BritishOnly.com, but Old Brits, Steadfast cycles, Klemph may have them.
These should come up with a google search. I have also seen them on ebay.

I do not remember any of my rubber gaskets having any flange. It seems to me, a better design on the rubber gasket might alleviate much of the sealing problems we Atlas guys suffer. I am again considering the idea of fitting a Commando chain case to my Atlas.

Good luck with yours,

Slick

N0rt0nelectr@ said:

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I am trying to post pictures of the clutch modification. Check it out, what a very clever man Heinz was. John in Texas

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Sorry, but please free to correct me on this question; you appear to have cut the clutch tab slots in the opposite direction to the Heinz Kelger modified clutch;





Even the Commando servo clutch had the angle in the opposite direction;
who-would-buy-one-these-amc-gearbox-clutch-centers-t12429.html?hilit=heinz kelger clutch

Perhaps I should rephrase the above, as it was not until I have come away from the computer when my 2 brain cells woke up.
With one side of the basket slots cut at 19 degrees, I can see why the clutch plates will lock up, but this is different from the version of the clutch centre slots being cut at an angle as per the Kelger Domi & Commando centre in the opposite direction. The outer basket is left as standard.
Scroll down the page 1 for the Commando servo clutch;

who-would-buy-one-these-amc-gearbox-clutch-centers-t12429.html

Clutch update- Clutch is smooth and engagement feels normal- as does the clutch pull. it was definitely the right move to put new plates in. Now back to my engine cut out problem on the other thread...
Thanks once again for all the good info!

[Slick-

Where did you get your new rubber gasket? The old beat up one I pulled off had a flange, the new one (I've had it laying around for a while and can't remember where I bought it) did not have a flange.[/quote]

Old used rubber seals will over time either develop a taper or a flange –or both :!:
New seals are parallel.

Agree Rohan. I think the alleged flange that I see is nothing more than pressure after installation. As I forgot from the last time I sealed the primary, let the RTV set for a couple of days before adding.

Not sure if it's the ATF or the new clutch, but shifting and clutch action are like a new bike.

I suspect many owners overfill the oil bath chain case, probably with the wrong oil.
Mr Heath who was involved with the original pressed steel oil bath chain case development in the mid 1930s advised me the way to ensure a slip and drag free Norton clutch was to......
Strip clutch and wash in petrol to remove all oil. Remove glaze from friction material. Reassemble clutch DRY with a smear of grease on the rollers.( MY NOTE...as per the instructions in ones genuine Norton manual). Fit chain case cover but leave oil level plug in place. Remove inspection cover and spark plug/s. With son, wife, boyfriend, lover etc turning the motor over on the kick starter slowly fill the chain case with straight SAE 10 or 20 engine oil whilst watching the chain and as soon as you see oil is touching the chain STOP filling. He made the comment that it would stop my Dommy clutch suffering from slip and drag problems for several thousands of miles use but that it did little for chain life. I note that for BSA Gold Star chain cases the instruction is to fill with oil till it can be seen to be just touching the chain.
Looking at my Renold chain industrial use design manual I note that oil bath lubrication, with the chain submerged in oil at its lowest point, is only recommended for chain speeds of UP TO 2,000 ft per minute and 50 h.p. For higher power and chain speeds the recommendation is an oil bath with a sump and in it a pump that supplies oil under pressure that is sprayed on to the inner edge of the side plates just before the chain flies around our clutches. Guess why our chains do NOT give the minimum life of 15,000 hours that the chains were designed to give IF employed as per the Renold industrial design manuals!! If memory is correct I used chain speeds of 6,000 ft per minute and probably over in my young days flying (on a Dommy??) along the Mountain Mile etc as i pretended I was a racer. Once fell off at Windy Corner one very late September day in front of the Manx Highway guys busy removing the famous gate and replacing it with the cattle grid..... it amused them as they watched me while up to their waists in the hole they were busy digging.