650 Mercury - horn/high-low beam/kill switch

According to this chart, the 650 or SS has neither?? Don't think it is correct.

650 Mercury - horn/high-low beam/kill switch
 
My Atlas came with a Hi/Lo, Horn, and kill button on the left, but looks nothing like yours.
I will post a pic in a few days when I visit my bike at my shop.

The switch is an all chrome affair with the horn button facing rear, convenient to a thumb press, the kill button is a nub protruding from the downward edge, and the Hi/Lo lever protrudes from the left edge.

Slick

Edit: The switch is a round cylindrical unit similar to that above (third from left). The switch has a pair of clamp arms that slip into slots on the switch body, wrap around the bars, and secured with a screw and nut on the bottom.

My Atlas is a '62 build, and the switch is original.
 
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Roy Bacon has a photo of '69 Mercury handlebar layout showing what I assume is the horn/dip switch screwed into the bars (it's visually similar to that as was on my P11), facing downwards and outboard of the clutch perch....
No visible cut out switch, though??
 
Does Roy Bacon's photo show the type screwed into the bar with two small screws?

I think various versions were used, depending on what was available.
 
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Roy Bacon has a photo of '69 Mercury handlebar layout showing what I assume is the horn/dip switch screwed into the bars (it's visually similar to that as was on my P11), facing downwards and outboard of the clutch perch....
No visible cut out switch, though??
Cut out switch was not used on coil ingition.
Somewhere out there is an Atlas with a horn/ dip switch which is held by two BA screws in the handlebars, it might not be the only one.
 
Cut out push button switch was used on coil ignition P11s. Probably because an offroad bike, or key was difficult to reach.

I think 650SS and Atlas have the small headlamp bucket switch.

Mercuries do not; they have a biger headlamp switch in the position of where the tachometer would be. This is the same switch as on the P11.
 
Does Roy Bacon's photo show the type screwed into the bar with two small screws?

I think a various versions were used, depending on what was available.
Just to clarify/confirm, yes, it is the screw in type. Hard to tell but I think it's the sort with the chrome push cover, as opposed to the other protruding plastic 'pip' type (!)... The Mercury shown has pretty flat-ish bars, every other contemporary model shown has the switch mounted on the rear 'face' of the bars, the Mercury being the sole example of it hanging below?
 
That is the switch I need, unsure if the screws or position is correct. The Mercury didn't have a tach as standard.

Don't know why they didn't just use the Wipac switch as the Commando would have had this during that time.
An original Wipac is hard to find but this Lucas chrome switch is even harder.


Anyone able to post an image from Roy Bacon's book?

PS. The above Lucas parts page is just plain wrong.
 
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Perfect, thanks. That photo is probably the gold reference. Although it is interesting there is no Mercury decal on the tank.

Now the challenge will be to find one, a gasket and some chrome-head self tapping screws.

What an odd place for the horn button.
 
Most Mercuries today do not have that original switch. If they do, it is not mounted in that bottom position but higher up.

Another picture of a Mercury (with a tach) from Roy Bacon's Norton Twin Restoration. The switch is certainly higher.
650 Mercury - horn/high-low beam/kill switch


The "005" plate on the S Type indicates it was an unregistered factory test bike.

 
It looks like the handlebar is rotated backwards in Bacon's photo. Maybe that could account for the position difference I am seeing.
 
FWIW: A pic of the switch I described in Post #3 above:

The switch on the right of the dipper is my retro fitted winker switch.

650 Mercury - horn/high-low beam/kill switch


Slick
 
I'll keep looking at the swap meets for a NOS Lucus screw in switch. And drill the handlebar. Or find a clip-on Lucas. I think the screw on original type look best. I do like my non-stock higher "SS" handlebar on this bike.

@NorLuck : Yes, please. It would be good to know the distance of the holes from the end of the bar..
 
Here is an aftermarket switch, very similar to the original, but it comes with a small bracket.

I'd be inclined to go with one of these, as you can put it where you want it and adjust it until you are happy.

Drilling and tapping threads on a rounded and chromed bar sounds like a PITA . You get one chance and the hole centers may or may not be where you want them.
 
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