260 Main Jets in a '74 MK II With 750 Peashooter Exhaust and RH10 Heads?

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I agree with dealing with known maintenance items first. There may be 2 things going on. As you know, blue exhaust = hotter, which suggests lean. The soot deposits may be oil?
Funny thing is the left pipe is the one that is "slightly" blue, the right is straw color. The right plug is brown and the left is sooty, not oily, just dry and slightly black. Absolutely not a hint of smoke, it ticks over and runs evenly. Both needles in the same notch both 260 main jets. Only thing left to check in the carburetors would be float level. Runs too evenly to have a vacuum leak. Tri-Spark Ignition so not likely ignition related.
 
To me ethanol or non ethanol isn't an issue unless there is a likelihood that I may have to let the bike sit for an extended period of time. The main drawback of E10 is the moisture adsorption.
Think again. That's one difference in ethanol fuel. The heat value per volume was discussed recently, it is real. Those that refuse to accept it, skate by riding at moderate speeds. If you're gonna wring it's neck, it's something to calculate.
 
Think again. That's one difference in ethanol fuel. The heat value per volume was discussed recently, it is real. Those that refuse to accept it, skate by riding at moderate speeds. If you're gonna wring it's neck, it's something to calculate.
In the grand scheme of things the power loss is not that significant . Technically, it can be tuned to make more power due to the different stoichiometric A/F ratios required. At the proper A/F ratios it has more heat available albeit with a slower frame front. It requires more jetting and ignition advance. It's not a simple task, but its still a fact. Straight methanol requires about 25% more ignition advance and about 40% more fuel and produces about 25% more power. When talking about a 10% mixture of ethanol all these values are less significant. My '06 Gen II Hemi ran slightly better 1/4 mile times on 10% ethanol It ran like crap on 110 octane leaded race gas.

Is non ethanol better for our Nortons? Yes, but E-10 can give adequate performance albeit with the moisture problems I cited. E-85 can make significantly more power than straight gasoline. Don't believe that? Go to some of the backwoods drag strips in the Southern Midwest and you might be surprised. The only reason E-85 use isn't more prevalent in bracket drag racing is lack of availability outside on the Southern Midwest..

I run non ethanol in my Norton but wouldn't sweat it if I have to run E-10 on occasion. I absolutely will not store any carbureted machine with E-10 in the system.

And BTW, alcohol fuels can run significantly higher compression ratios and run cooler.
 
Yes, I think Concours was making the point it will need adjustments. I agree about not storing the bike with E10 in it. Not just because of corrosion. A few weeks ago, I left it for only 10 days and it was not happy until I put new fuel in. That's UK E10 and it had been damp outside. But, I was disappointed it was so short a timescale and so obvious. Made a mental note to never fiddle with carb adjustments unless I'm on fresh fuel.
 
It doesn't misfire it just kind of wheezes like it can't quite breath. I will be able to get it sorted out once I get everything else copacetic. If anything it seems like it might be rich. The pipes are sooty.
Needs bigger carbs ;)

Overbore to 33mm!
 
Yes. I have the same components to run.
Main jet is only important at wide open throttle , which I never do , to protect my life and the precious driver's licence. To dial in the components you talk of ... I finally settled on a size 3 slide and a needle at the top clip. Plug pulls and analysis visually for correct grey/brown colour on the tips helped achieve that.
If the main jets are slightly too rich, that sounds better to me. You don't usually burn valves or pistons on half throttle. I run my jetting as lean as possible right down the needles, but when the motor is on full throttle, it gets a reprieve. The taper on the needles is more important than the main jet size. At full throttle metering must be done by the main jets. You will notice that during the 1970s, every new model of Japanese bike had different Mikuni needles. There is a reason for that.
 
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On my 850, I use methanol fuel. I have 34mm Mk2 Amals on 30mm ports with the firsdt 25mm of the port tapered. I use 6D Mikuni needles which are the leanest right down the taper. If you are using petrol, the different fuel would not change the shape of the needles you need. for best acceleration up through the gears. The difference is in the needle jet size. I suggest you should visit you friends who have two-stroke motorcycles and scrounge a cou[le of needles. The distance from the clip to the shoulder of the taper and the diameter at the top of the needle are usually the same forth Amal and MIkuni 34mm down to 30mm carbs
 
If you cannot get your motor to cough by lowering the needles, the needle jets are too big. Get the cough, then raise the needles one.
 
adding to the conversation - on my 74 Mk2 - 260 main, 106 needle, middle groove, 3-1/2 slides, stock OE peashooters and RH10 head. seems to run good from idle to WOT, w/o issues, but then again, have nothing to compare it to, so take it FWIW. i believe everything is configured to original factory specs.
That is exactly standard for mk 11 850 with hamcan aircleaner except needle should be in top groove. Ie the leanest position.
 
That is exactly standard for mk 11 850 with hamcan aircleaner except needle should be in top groove. Ie the leanest position.
i'm thinking i saw some service bulletin or something that changed the clip to the middle groove. FWIW, i wouldn't have changed it without some reason. well satisfied with my plug readings.
 
If the clips are in the top groove, the needle jets are probably too big. You need adjustment up and down to cope with weather changes. If you lower the needles one notch, you should get a cough due to lean-ness when you ride the bike. Most road going Commandos are probably jetted too rich. It is probably better than jetting close to the optimum, because then you don't have to think But the bike will be slightly slower - does that really matter ?
 
If I was using petrol for racing, I would have a full range of different taper Mikuni needles for my Amal carbs.
 
I read that as the Mikuni needle range is better than what is available via Amal.
 
Does that sound like a good main jet choice for that combination?
Dan,
I have the same set-up as you have and have my Premiers set to factory specs with no problem at all.Tried different settings and found these worked best.Bike runs great and I just run 91-93 octane gas with ethanol
I use this m/c for extended trips and don’t want to be searching around for ethanol free fuel.Just my 2 cents.
Mike
 
I read that as the Mikuni needle range is better than what is available via Amal.
Correct, far more needle tapers available. Enough to be quite confusing, but...with guidance you can get close fairly quickly, in a Mikuni, using them in an Amal (you can) you would need to be sure of overall length and you would need to do some serious study, but no reason to think you wouldn't get there. Bonus? Apart from fine tuning ability, the Mikuni clips don't fall off as much as Amal ones do!

Not all Mikuni needles are suitable for use in an Amal, but what is available still gives a better 4 stroke range than one, plus 'Norton special' and 'emission'.

Would I bother with Mikuni needles on a road bike? No.

On a race bike? No, because I would just fit Mikunis and have a access to a greater range of needle jets, and a decent starting device too!

(actually, I would do that on a road bike too! ;))
 
i'm thinking i saw some service bulletin or something that changed the clip to the middle groove. FWIW, i wouldn't have changed it without some reason. well satisfied with my plug readings.
I'll see how things go with the clip at the top. I just spent a day cleaning my carbs in a sonic bath and replacing the needles and needle jet.

I foolishly left modern ethanol gas in my carbs for several months while moving and what a mess. The needles corroded in a ring about the level of the needle jet. It was a silly thing to do. When I was racing I always drained the carbs and blew carb cleaner through before storing it even a week but forgot to do my 850.

Modern fuel - at least what they sell in NZ eats carb internals if it dries out. There was a yellow green powder everywhere.
 
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