1974 Commando 850 Barn Find

Hammerski said:
Anyone see what I've got wrong with the Exhaust mount?
Click to expand...

It looks normal for peashooters except for that angle plate apparently attached to the silencer beneath the two mounting lugs. Is that a repair?

Hammerski said:
the kickstart is occasionally hitting the pipe.
Click to expand...

That is a known problem and why AN supplies this part.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - SILENCER MOUNT BRACKET (STEPPED VERSION) CHROME PLATED - 06.1721/S

SILENCER MOUNT BRACKET (STEPPED VERSION) CHROME PLATED
andover-norton.co.uk

Or the Mk1A/Mk2A/Mk3 lever gives more clearance.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - KICKSTART LEVER ASSEMBLY (850) - 12.1018

KICKSTART LEVER ASSEMBLY (850)
andover-norton.co.uk
 
L.A.B. said:
It looks normal for peashooters except for that angle plate apparently attached to the silencer beneath the two mounting lugs. Is that a repair?



That is a known problem and why AN supplies this part.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - SILENCER MOUNT BRACKET (STEPPED VERSION) CHROME PLATED - 06.1721/S

SILENCER MOUNT BRACKET (STEPPED VERSION) CHROME PLATED
andover-norton.co.uk

Or the Mk1A/Mk2A/Mk3 lever gives more clearance.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - KICKSTART LEVER ASSEMBLY (850) - 12.1018

KICKSTART LEVER ASSEMBLY (850)
andover-norton.co.uk
Click to expand...
Doesn't appear to be a repair, could be replacement silencers from who knows where though.

I ended up solving the issue by loosening the exhaust nuts at the head and then tightening them back down with the pipes closer to the frame. That gave enough clearance for everything.
 
Its officially a runner. got the primary put back together, silencers on, and buttoned up a few small things. Still need to finish the right side handlebar switch but its been a long process involving a stripped screw, stuck screw, broken drill bit in finger, and oversized hole requiring a helicoil. Should be done this week though.

Also, anyone who says a tri spark won't kick back sure hasn't tried one timed 90 degrees out. Started second kick once I fixed that mistake.

Also had to switch to the replacement plug wires. The old ones worked, but I got shocked anytime I touched the right side.

1974 Commando 850 Barn Find


1974 Commando 850 Barn Find
 
Hammerski said:
Doesn't appear to be a repair, could be replacement silencers from who knows where though.
Click to expand...

That's curious as the silencer would normally be the same part whether fitted on the right or the left side which would put that plate on the top if fitted on the left?
 
Not all heads are created equal. You did well to be able too sort the silencer clearance considering you have crossover pipes. I have singles on my 850 and despite that still unable to get proper alignment for the
silencer on the timing side. Succeeded finally by packing out the mounts. Also used the kicker just mentioned.
 
The speedo and tacho cables would normally run under the lower yoke then up which is not always what's shown in the brochure pictures but does seem to be what the factory did.

The lower ends of the gaiters would of course be stretched over the collars.
 
Hammerski said:
Anyone see what I've got wrong with the Exhaust mount? The passenger pegs won't fold down and the kickstart is occasionally hitting the pipe.
Click to expand...
1. Loosen up all hardware, from the rose nuts to the rubber buffers. "Just" loose, not "floppy".
2. Tie the header pipes together with a length of wire, under the back of the engine, and ensure the kicker no longer hits the pipe.
3. Tighten the rode nuts securely. Tighten the crossover tube, if present.
4. Tighten the muffler clamps at the headers. Check the kicker again. (always be ensuring they are symmetrical between steps).
5. Tighten one each side of any of the Rube Goldberg mounts. Then another one, each side, until all nuts, bolts, and buffers are tight.
6. Check the kicker one last time.
7. Remove tie wire.

Good to go.

You got some peg rubbers with too big of a flange. Get different ones.
 
Onder said:
What rim size on the rear and what tyre did you mount on it?
Click to expand...
Both are technically 19in fronts, I saw them on another thread here. No idea how they'll ride, but they fit fine.


Rear Tire
Shinko 712 Tires (Front / 110/90-19 62H)

Front Tire
Shinko 712 Tires (Front / 100/90-19 57H)
 
How important is the front brake caliper dust shield? Mine is rubbing a bit and I'm considering just ditching it. Does it provide any benefit?
 
The 065413 disc scraper?
It's basically useless, the factory stopped fitting them so yes, remove it.
 
long time no see...

Back in the fall I was able to get out for a long 40ish mile ride and the bike performed flawlessly!.... until I ran out of gas 5 miles from the station. One helpful local later and I finished up the ride with no issues. Balanced the carbs with a harmonizer from my airhead days and put it up for the long cold winter with a full tank of ethanol free and empty carb bowls.

That takes us to this years issues. From last season I found that it would wet sump about a liter every 2 weeks. From reading here it sounds like the AMR cover mod is a bit hit and miss. Has anyone found that it doesn't work? Alternatively, the sump mounted reed valves are advertised to get around the issue entirely. Can they really handle 2 quarts of oil before it blows the seals out?
 
Hammerski said:
long time no see...

Back in the fall I was able to get out for a long 40ish mile ride and the bike performed flawlessly!.... until I ran out of gas 5 miles from the station. One helpful local later and I finished up the ride with no issues. Balanced the carbs with a harmonizer from my airhead days and put it up for the long cold winter with a full tank of ethanol free and empty carb bowls.

That takes us to this years issues. From last season I found that it would wet sump about a liter every 2 weeks. From reading here it sounds like the AMR cover mod is a bit hit and miss. Has anyone found that it doesn't work? Alternatively, the sump mounted reed valves are advertised to get around the issue entirely. Can they really handle 2 quarts of oil before it blows the seals out?
Click to expand...
Just posted this on another thread but my solution is a maually operated ball valve tap with an ign cutout switch to idiot proof things. Cost me about $15 in bits and an hour to make up. There are commerically available setups with same concept for $80-$150. Been working a treat now for 25k miles...no more wet sump drama.

Here is my setup on my actual bike featured in this Fortnine video:

 
Hammerski said:
long time no see...

Back in the fall I was able to get out for a long 40ish mile ride and the bike performed flawlessly!.... until I ran out of gas 5 miles from the station. One helpful local later and I finished up the ride with no issues. Balanced the carbs with a harmonizer from my airhead days and put it up for the long cold winter with a full tank of ethanol free and empty carb bowls.

That takes us to this years issues. From last season I found that it would wet sump about a liter every 2 weeks. From reading here it sounds like the AMR cover mod is a bit hit and miss. Has anyone found that it doesn't work? Alternatively, the sump mounted reed valves are advertised to get around the issue entirely. Can they really handle 2 quarts of oil before it blows the seals out?
Click to expand...

I forgot to drain the sump once, and yes, the sump mounted breather handled the oil without any damage to the primary seal.

BUT… would I rely on this as a standard procedure for stating with a sump full of oil… no. IMO it’s asking too much of the seal which will most likely protest at some point.

Additionally, if your tank has fully emptied into the sump, there’s no oil in the tank to feed the pump…!

So IMO the breather is an excellent safety net in case you forget, rather than a full solution allowing you to forget all about the wet sumping.
 

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