For a '72 Triumph T100R Daytona, the manual calls for SAE 20 weight oil in the primary chaincase. You just can't find straight 20 weight oil anymore. Is it o.k. to substitute 10-30 oil in the chaincase?
Bill
Bill
10-30 for 20 weight in chaincase?
- Thread starter pantah_good
- Start date
From Google, it looks like the late 500 uses the same crankcase breather as the contemporary 650, so the primary contains the same oil as the engine.
10-30 it is.
I think 10W/30 is too thin for any old Brit bike engine.
I think that is the reason for LAB's incredulous smiley.
I think that is the reason for LAB's incredulous smiley.
Due to what the Triumph manual said, I initially wasn't aware that the two oils might intermingle, and wasn't sure a multi grade would be o.k. with the clutch plates. The bike hasn't run for almost 20 years and I'm now thinking of using the thinner mineral 10-30 in the engine for a few short running cycles to flush it out, dump it, then put in what it would regularly run with. Since I'm a big fan of motorcycle specific full synthetic motor oils, I'm now wondering if there are any problems with using something like Klotz in this Triumph?
pantah_good said:
If you use a "motorcycle" 20w-50 then you shouldn't have any problems (unless there's an existing problem with the clutch).
pantah_good said:
Well, if you only intend to run it for a short time then it probably won't do any harm although I think I'd rather use a cheap 20w/50 myself, but I would clean the primary case and clutch plates regardless as it's not a difficult job on a Triumph.
Re; “Since I'm a big fan of motorcycle specific full synthetic motor oils, I'm now wondering if there are any problems with using something like Klotz in this Triumph? “
You could use this synthetic motor oil in your engine, but avoid at ALL costs using anything synthetic where there is a wet plate clutch, as you will find out to your cost, it will tend to slip.
You could use this synthetic motor oil in your engine, but avoid at ALL costs using anything synthetic where there is a wet plate clutch, as you will find out to your cost, it will tend to slip.
Sounds like a motorcycle specific multi-grade mineral oil is the way to go with this bike. The bikes owner can't bring himself to spend any extra for synthetic anyway.
Was common to run A.T.F. ( dextron III ) in chaincases .
Even in Trans. at Daytona , for an extra mph or two .
FRICTION MODIFIED Oils , as they called them , in the 70 on Triumphs , with the Combined Oil System - could ( did ) lead to clutch slip , at the time .
A weekend bike , as opposed to everyday , Id run 40 monograde in the engine , and run it 5 minutes before heading out . Theory is circulate the Oil Twice , minimum . Anyway
before engageing gear . Aston before the plastic ones , were 15 min. before full wellie . Thats so engines at full operating temperature & stabilised , so clearances as required .
Even in Trans. at Daytona , for an extra mph or two .
FRICTION MODIFIED Oils , as they called them , in the 70 on Triumphs , with the Combined Oil System - could ( did ) lead to clutch slip , at the time .
A weekend bike , as opposed to everyday , Id run 40 monograde in the engine , and run it 5 minutes before heading out . Theory is circulate the Oil Twice , minimum . Anyway
before engageing gear . Aston before the plastic ones , were 15 min. before full wellie . Thats so engines at full operating temperature & stabilised , so clearances as required .
Matt Spencer said:
Just start up and ride away.
Is that the Red Line full synthetic?
Sorry for the delay. No. Actually its 25W-60 made by Drag Specialties. Carried in most Harley dealerships. I wouldn't use synth. in the old Bonnie. Anyone I know that did had clutch slippage and an oily floor. Could just be the boys I know.
https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-special ... 309920.sku
https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-special ... 309920.sku
