Id suggest you buy a GALLON of C.R.C. / WD 40 or suchlike . here in Aus. WD 40 is 38 bucks for 4 litres .
I tryed gallons of oil , used . drilling holes , chopping down , drilling holes , gallons of oil , on PRIVAT . It Thrived , High Gloss regrowth .
So much for the TREE .
Get a garden spay bottle attomiser thing , and statrt spraying . EVERTHING . And inside the swithblocks & around the plugs . Specially
Spark Plugs . WAY BEFORE yoou remove anything . We speak from experiance . It saves getting blood all over everything .
Also figuring optimum fit & hit . Light taps with a 5 or ten pound hammer beat mighty whacks with a baby one .
Spray inside engine , bores , chest etc etc . DONT use loose spanners . The odd metric one is a good close firm hammer fit .
TO SAVE NUTS . also theres a nut up in under behind the back of the head, below -> under top of barrel . Needs a dog leg spanner .
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The Axle There , First free the clamp bolt . , But leave it in - refit - un tight .
If thats a casting split line , a fine cutom steel fine taper wedge , maybe hardened ( red hot then drop in oil )
Will start to spead the thing , JUST A TOUCH , so the C.R.C. can penetrate axle / leg join .
The sliders / Legs are cast , Not forged like a manx . So dont get brutal , tho the scientific application of brute force is another story .
Pre CRC ing the triple clamps , then dropping the top assembly , leaving the triple clamp back in place , you could get the front end to a large hydraulic press .
But cutting the axles no worries . But Mask / Tape , or sheild ( with a piece of tin , adjacent your ministrations so components are unscarred .
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A pair of high quality VICE GRIPS are a real assett , for the odd inaccessable bit . Clamped real tight , but not so as to crush nuts to studds .
Olde Mk 1 Cortinas , Corsairs & Chryslers benifetted from TWO WEEK previous doesing , liberal at heavy bolt . Saturated . And a second at one week
if you could afford it . Otherwise bolts could howl and snap in the nut . The left rear spring front bolt was the one occasionally tyre levers , prying
and a hack saw were the only solution .
But be thoughtfull & dont hit toward componentrty if avoidable . And get some mug to hold the spanner securely aligned qwhile you hit it , on stuck bits .
Obviously free all flanges , all bolts , just a touch initially . NOT one bolt / nut out then trying the next . Recipee for disaster on severall counts .
SO , likely first step is find all the free bits / 1/2 tyrn . And MARK all the un free / jammed stuff . And STUDY the best acces for leverage without damadge
as the spanner swings . Simultaeneous heat'd be good . The Paint Stripper / Heat guns work better & quicker for changeing bearings & freeing cylinder liners
in exoting model aircraft engines , than ovens & hot water etc . Tho Castor Glued locked wrist pins can take WEEKS & many Heat / CRC cycles before the
dried castor softens & frees . Or the corrosion . Thats the normal worst in them .
SO DONT HAMMER / LEVER the RODS or any precision aligned engine gearbox stuff without forethought & science . Itll still be there tomorrow .
Unless you bugger it .