Madass140 Single Throttle Cable Amal Kit

[MexicoMike]

Yes, I realize the bike is not "symmetrical." But the there is nothing gained on my fastback tank by flipping the plate - there is still no clearance for the plate.

 

[MexicoMike]

In my case, no. The first thing I did was remove the cable post but my problem is that regardless of the plate's orientation, the bottom of the tank sits on top of the cam that lifts the carb slides, preventing the cam from moving.

 

[850commando]

In my case, no. The first thing I did was remove the cable post but my problem is that regardless of the plate's orientation, the bottom of the tank sits on top of the cam that lifts the carb slides, preventing the cam from moving.

how much interference? have you considered just slightly raising the tank... i just added new rubber pad in my tank where it sits on the main tube, might such a change help?

 

[MexicoMike]

Sadly, no. It requires that the tank be raised to the point where it looks silly...literally laughably so!

 

[johnm]

There you go. Original on right. New flipped plate on left. Fits perfectly and well clear of the tank.

The original gained a couple of extra holes in the process of using it as a template.

 

[MexicoMike]

Great, glad flipping it works for you. On my fastback tank the plate itself is not the problem - it's the cable post and the throttle cam that won't clear the tank. I can pull the post but the tank still sits ON the cam and lacks a couple of inches from seating on the frame. So, to allow the cam to rotate and lift the carb slides, the tank would need to be about 3.5 inches above its correct position.

 

[johnm]

My problem was that the cable post and the cable hit the tank. As in the photos I posted earlier.

But by taking advantage of the asymmetry of the engine I was able to move the cable post and cable inboard by about 12 mm. That gave me plenty of clearance in the tank tunnel.

The plates not the problem. It's the solution

 

[olympus]

My problem was that the cable post and the cable hit the tank. As in the photos I posted earlier.

But by taking advantage of the asymmetry of the engine I was able to move the cable post and cable inboard by about 12 mm. That gave me plenty of clearance in the tank tunnel.

The plates not the problem. It's the solution

What about reducing the height of the post itself re drill & tap it... bingo

 

[acadian]

Great, glad flipping it works for you. On my fastback tank the plate itself is not the problem - it's the cable post and the throttle cam that won't clear the tank. I can pull the post but the tank still sits ON the cam and lacks a couple of inches from seating on the frame. So, to allow the cam to rotate and lift the carb slides, the tank would need to be about 3.5 inches above its correct position.

The tank is low enough to hit the cable cam? That's a significant difference in clearance, how different is the fastback tank from roadster/others?

edit: Looking the bottoms of the FB vs Roadster tank I can see where there may be an issue with clearance

 

[johnm]

What about reducing the height of the post itself re drill & tap it... bingo

That would not work because the post height is matched to the rotating disc. You would need to redesign the whole activating mechanism.

Anyway it is all done now and yesterday I got a WOF (MOT).

Bike is basically finished after a 4 month rebuild.

 

[johnm]

The tank is low enough to hit the cable cam? That's a significant difference in clearance, how different is the fastback tank from roadster/others?

edit: Looking the bottoms of the FB vs Roadster tank I can see where there may be an issue with clearance

Yes that FB is going to basically be impossible.

Not going to work.

 

[MexicoMike]

Right...the pic looks exactly like my Fastback tank.

 

[acadian]

Right...the pic looks exactly like my Fastback tank.

just re-engineer the iso's and engine cradles to allow the motor to sit 3" lower .... simple

 

[olympus]

I offered up a post on this a couple of months ago and am now unable to find it.

Synchronization was driving me nuts. Cliffa turned me on the Madass sync adaptor plate.

Once installed and with very little tweaking the performance has been flawless.

View attachment 11966 View attachment 11967 View attachment 11968 View attachment 11969 View attachment 11970 View attachment 11971 View attachment 11972 View attachment 11973 View attachment 11974
View attachment 11966 View attachment 11967

Can i ask why you have added the brass ferrule into the upper cable nipple hole....i see no point to this??

 

[850commando]

Mexicomike, is it possible to relocate the cable anchor in between the bearing supports? or would that bindup on the main tube?

 

[Lineslinger]

Can i ask why you have added the brass ferrule into the upper cable nipple hole....i see no point to this??

I added those to eliminate any throttle cable lag.
They take up the very small amount of excess lash, so the throttle twist is truly "immediate".

 

[MexicoMike]

Mexicomike, is it possible to relocate the cable anchor in between the bearing supports? or would that bindup on the main tube?

The cable anchor can be gotten around. The problem is that the tank sits on top of the cam that lifts the carb slides. That cam holds the tank several inches above the proper position and, with the tank sitting on the cam, the cam can't rotate to open the slides. There is no change that can be made to correct that. The only thing that would correct it would be to cut out a portion of the tank itself and then re-fiberglass it to accommodate that cut out. I would not consider cutting up a nice fastback tank for that purpose.

 

[Time Warp]

I added those to eliminate any throttle cable lag.
They take up the very small amount of excess lash, so the throttle twist is truly "immediate".

Just curious with the gantry adjuster near all the way out, is the 'throttle cable stop (Item # 17) in place up at the throttle housing ?

 

[Lineslinger]

Not sure what item #17 is, but the throttle housing (at the end of the handle bar) is tweaked as I prefer.
If I put my hand on the twist grip the engine responds immediately, maybe just a subtle RPM shift, but that's what I want.

 

[Time Warp]

Not sure what item #17 is, but the throttle housing (at the end of the handle bar) is tweaked as I prefer.
If I put my hand on the twist grip the engine responds immediately, maybe just a subtle RPM shift, but that's what I want.

Item # 17 goes between the cable end and the throttle housing.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/76/controls-and-control-cables