P11 clutch Vs. Atlas clutch: any differnces?

Hi.
I have a complete Atlas clutch.
Can i fit on P11 or there are some differences?.
Thank you.
Piero

Parts book says everything identical except the double sided friction plates. It lists 043192 for P11(A) and 043442 for all others.
However, when I look up 043442 on the AN site, it says use 043192. So, they may be interchangeable.

Ed

Hi.
I can say i know very well the clutch and primary transmission of the Commando but not those of P11.
The question is if P11 mounts the same spacers and shims of the Commando:
- between the cranckshaft chain sprocket and the rotor;
- behind the clutch chainwheel.
Thank you.
Ciao
Piero

Hi.
Atlas parts book shows n. 4 friction plate and n. 4 clutch steel plain plate.
In the P11 i have found 5 and 5.
Parts list says it is correct.
Ciao
Piero

Do not know what parts list you are using or where you obtained it but I wouold suggest you throw it away.
My 1964 parts list for 88ss, 650ss, 650/99 and Atlas states there are 5 double sided friction plates, one single sided friction plate and 5 steel inter plates making 12 friction interfaces in total.
If your clutch only has 4 friction plates you have the wrong clutch fitted and as sure as god made little apples it will suffer from slip problems long before you put much of the available crank torque through it!! ...unless you ride it without ever getting near fully opening the throttle that is........
I think you are on a very very long Norton learning curve.
Incidentally the standard Atlas clutch required the 3 coil springs to apply approx 250 pounds force uf the clutch if it was not to suffer from slip even when dry with no oil on the friction interfaces and this gave a rediculously heavy clutch lever action....made worse by people fitting clutch levers withy 1 1/16 inch between the pivot point centre and the cable nipple centre. The AMC lift mechanism was designed to employ levers with 7/8 inch centres.

I know this is an old post but I am having similar problems. Although the parts book stipulates 11 plate for all models, the friction plates listed for the P11 , 043192, are 4.5mm thick and the stack would be 35.3mm thick and the basket is only 32mm deep. RGM sell the 043192 plate, they also sell a thinner one at 3.5mm thick making the stack 30.3mm thick, so far so good. The pushrod from the parts book, 040607, listed for all models is too short, the commando pushrod is longer, however with the springs under tension it is trying to push the whole clutch out. The bike is a1966 N15. When I rebuilt it I ran short of money so cleaned the clutch and didn't put any oil in the chain case. It worked ok but started slipping so, having a bit more cash, I decided to replace it. It was a 9 plate clutch, but the pressure plate, one side plain, the other with pads was 5.75mm thick, not 2.8, this increased the stack thickness to 30mm.
So the parts I have should work, I just cannot get it to actuate correctly, any ideas? Anyone replacing a clutch should be aware of buying 5X 043192 plates as it will be too thick.

Are you saying that with the cable adjusters and clutch adjuster at the pressure plate all fully backed off your clutch plates are lifted by the clutch pushrod when the springs are tightened fully? Wrong inner length clutch cable would be one guess. If you have the pre-Commando mainshaft the shorter pushrod would help. The clutch rod actuator lever could be fouled up somehow.

Using clutch plates with the same dimensions you listed I had a Commando mainshaft in the P11 gearbox and had no trouble using the Commando clutch push rod. The Commando push rod also worked with the pre-Commando mainshaft and those clutch plates in the P11 gearbox. The rod stuck out 1/4" further and the pressure plate adjuster had to be backed way off.

Somebody will be able to help eventually if you haven't already figured out how to solve your issue with the clutch.

The clutch pushrod in my gearbox is just a piece of 1/4 inch steel rod, the ends of it are not even hardened. Getting the length correct is not difficult.

acotrel said:

The clutch pushrod in my gearbox is just a piece of 1/4 inch steel rod, the ends of it are not even hardened. Getting the length correct is not difficult.

Click to expand...

Good point. RGM and AN sell cut rod, but it is only .235" and guaranteed to leak IMO without a clutch push rod seal. .250" rod would probably be a good size to work with. Hardened or not they end up with dimples at both ends anyway. lol