Needing Air

Status
Not open for further replies.
needing said:
Thinking out loud re: my AMAL Mk1.
The slide needle diameter at the parallel is 2.5mm or 0.098”.
My currently fitted needle jet is 0.105”
Therefore, the annular clearance between the slide needle parallel and needle jet is only 0.0035” i.e. 3 and ½ thou.

The air and fuel flow at slide opening of 6.5mm will pull the needle toward the manifold resulting in wear of the needle against the needle jet.
From your experience, needle and needle jet life expectancy is ??
Ta.

Background and Context
A drivability issue encountered with my recently purchased '74 850 caused me to remove the carburetors for a thorough review (never had an AMAL carb apart before). Problem turned out to be a loose jet holder in one of them (had almost completely unscrewed), but since they were off decided to rebuild and do some measuring. Thought my findings might be relevant in light of the recent comments here on annulus area of needle jet/needle, needle wear rates and other carb dimensions.

Carb Component Dimensions
The small orifice sizes (idle and main jet) were determined by probing with pin gauges sized in 0.0005" increments. The needle jet was sized with pin gauges of 0.001" increments. Jet needle dia at various locations along the length were assessed with an optical comparator.

Slide Fit
Depending on vertical position the slide could be displaced laterally in the carb body 0.012" - 0.015", so fairly loose.

Pilot Jets
Pilot jet dia is often quoted at 0.016", however the right and left fixed idle jets had diameters of 0.018" and 0.017" respectively.

Needle Jets and Jet Needles
Both carbs were fit with 106 needle jets and 4 ring needles. The jets had an ID of ~ 0.1065" dia. The 0.106" gauge pin dropped in easily and the 0.107" pin could not be inserted or even started into the jet bore. The needle clip was found in the top groove on both carbs (leanest condition) and the diameter of one needle was measured by mounting on an optical comparator and measuring at 10 mm increments along its length starting at the clip and moving toward the tip. A worn section was noted in the needle that corresponded to operation just off idle (position where needle is repeatedly subject to momentary high vacuum, thus side thrust, as engine transitions from idle to higher speed operating regimes), and where the needle would experience constant use (every time the twist grip moves from idle - every blip, every shift, every use) over its 10,000 mi of life to date. The needle was worn at this position from an original dia of ~ 2.535 mm to ~ 2.500 mm.

Main Jets
Ended up finding two different main jets in the carbs - R = 250 and L = 260. I realize the main jet IDs refer to the fuel they are capable of flowing (cc/min at a given pressure head), but nevertheless wanted to estimate the difference in main jet orifice size. I was a bit surprised how close the 2 jets were in size, where a 0.0545" pin would pass through each jet, albeit slightly easier in the 260 than the 250, and a 0.0550" would not pass through either jet. So perhaps the jets differ in orifice size by a maximum of 0.0005", which seems a very small difference (~ 1.9% difference in orifice areas) given that the flow difference between the 2 jets is 4% (260/250 = 1.04).

Needle Annulus Area vs Main Jet Area
With the above data in hand, the annular area between the needle jet and throttle needle at various positions along the needle's length were calculated and compared to the area of the main jet. The rationale for this undertaking was simply to create a plot showing how needle taper affects mixture strength at different throttle openings with this "special 4 ring needle" intended for use with a 260 main jet. With the needle clip in the highest groove and the throttle totally closed, the point at which the needle enters the 0.1065" diameter section of the needle jet orifice was assigned the position "0 throttle opening" and the remaining throttle opening positions were assigned as fractions of the 32 mm of needle that exist below this point, which in total cover throttle openings from 0% to 100%.

Needing Air


The worn section of the needle referred to above is readily observed in the plot at ~ 1/8 throttle, where the worn out needle section creates an undesirable rich spot. Disregarding the worn needle section for the moment, the plot suggests that from 0 to 3/8 throttle, a virgin needle jet/needle combination would not change mixture strength significantly, since there is minimal, if any, change in needle dia occurring over this range of throttle position. From 3/8 to 3/4 throttle the needle jet/needle provide a very significant change in mixture strength, and it appears that by 3/4 throttle the needle is withdrawn sufficiently from the needle jet that it no longer regulates/limits fuel flow since the annular area has now exceeded the main jet area, thus the main jet is now limiting fuel flow in the system. It should also be noted that the needle clip provides a total adjustment of ~ 3.4 mm, i.e., by dropping the clip to the bottom needle groove the red "throttle opening scale" shown on the plot shifts to the right ~ 3.4 mm (the blue vertical bar becomes the new 0 throttle starting point for the throttle opening scale), thus providing increased mixture strength relative to the scenario where the clip is positioned in the top needle groove.

Bottom line, with new needles/needle jets and clean, freshly synchronized carbs, bike ran great. Even with loose slides the idle is very stable at 1000 rpm.

Examining the new vs old needle jets, no difference in size could be ascertained with the pin gauges on hand (0.106" and 0.107"), albeit a coarse means of measuring a precision hole.
 
Hi WZ507.
I have found the carbys to be tolerant of a lot of play between slide/body interface. My original carbys 16 and 19 thou if I recall but the slide skirts were hammered.
Jet holders came loose twice in a year for me so I have now grub-screwed them.
Your measured components compared to new parts would make for interesting dyno runs to see the correlation of air:fuel data for each.
Today's dyno run was the last for this series. 105 needle jets are still just a tad rich but much improved on 106s. Need some warm/hot weather to confirm across operating conditions.
I'm packing just now for a 1230km spin through the state: weather forecast is looking pretty good for winter here seeing how we're on the ground overnight.
Ta.
 
Info from a ride in the countryside.
Day 1: 457 km.
Day 2: 430 km.
Day 3: 288 km.
Total: 1175 km.
Speed (mode): 110 km/h
Oil consumption: zero
Fuel consumption (mean): 20.53 km/lt (58 mpg UK)
Woke this morning to kookaburras laughing in the trees at the riverbank.
Bike needs a wash!
Ta.
 
changed my mind.....

ok oil cooler, but usually at the top? i'm thinking stone hits, heat from close ex pipe, use a thermostat? maybe not needed in oz

does it make a diff? must be if you are using it and i'm sure you checked it out,

you'd think there would be alot more out there if it did much, yours is the only one i've seen on a commando, even from the odd race bike i've seen
 
84ok said:
changed my mind.....

ok oil cooler, but usually at the top? i'm thinking stone hits, heat from close ex pipe, use a thermostat? maybe not needed in oz

does it make a diff? must be if you are using it and i'm sure you checked it out,

you'd think there would be alot more out there if it did much, yours is the only one i've seen on a commando, even from the odd race bike i've seen
Hi 84ok.
My oil cooler is:
1. Low mounted so the head has maximum cool airflow (crankcases are not so critial)
2. Mounted forward of headers
3. Plumbed correctly so the oil fills the cooling tubes
4. Routed after the 85°C activated thermostat (which is after the filter)
5. Often activated on hottish days (+35°C) and churning heat out on +37°C to +40°C days
6. Useful in combination with the breather circuit to increase engine oil capacity to 3.4 litres (3.6 qt of Redline)
7. Yet to take a stone strike after years of use
8. 'Made in Canada' stamped and sourced from a Triumph (Dolomite, if I recall)
9. Sensible insurance based on all of the above
Ta.
 
needing said:
Combat crank case breather.

Stephen Hill said:
Interesting approach. I'm assuming the ball bearing is functioning as a one way valve.
Do you think the mass of the ball bearing will limit its ability to accurately track the pressure cycle of the engine?

Stephen Hill

No I don't. :D
Zero or minimised positive pressure rather than a negative pressure in my cases is my desire.
Ta.

Whilst can see that low crankcase pressure will perhaps give a power gain , surely there is a huge downside . Less oil mist to get to the mains or even the cam lobes?
 
oldmikew said:
Whilst can see that low crankcase pressure will perhaps give a power gain , surely there is a huge downside . Less oil mist to get to the mains or even the cam lobes?
Hi oldmikew.
Have no fear, the reality is that the mains have been in the bike since 1989 and the cam could be original, or perhaps replaced prior to my purchase in 1981. This Combat engine has been pushing oil and air out the crankcase breather ably assisted by low pressure extraction into the oil tank by the ham-can hose and created by carby air draw. Adding a valve into the system just promotes said flow in that direction only.
Also, adding the one-way cool air inlet to the rocker cover reduces the risk of excessive negative crankcase pressure 'pulling' air:fuel mixture past the rings. The current metered air circuit provides just 2 inHg of engine vacuum (see page 4)
Ta.
 
Hi Needing- Good that you have a Combat and well done for keeping it running over the years obviously it poses no issue. Back in the early 70s the works race engines experimented with using BMC A series oil pumps . It fitted were the magneto used to be and was plumbed in externally. The idea
was to improve scavenging to the extent that there was an appreciable gain in Brake mean effective pressure. Have thought with roller
bottom there must come a trade off point were one can go too far. Obviously you havent. Interesting that your Combat cam is ok . Among the the problems associated with the engine , camshaft wear was not one.. When it became an issue with the 850s the engines were not run up round the track as the Andover built bikes had been. Perhaps this gave the lobes a chance to work harden.
 
Replaced a worn pawl on 07-Jul-15 with one of two bought for a good (for me) price.
After just seven weeks, I replaced that first one today with a Norton bagged one.
Yep, inadequate hardening on the cheap(er) part. The second one is now in the bin: not throwing more money after bad to harden it. Oh yeah, that shop is now off my preferred supplier list.
Ta.

Book Review.
Don't bother!
There was not even one paragraph specifically on the Norton Commando (or the owners of said bikes).
A waste of money that would be better spent on fuel! :D
http://www.fishpond.com.au/Books/Norton ... 2FResearch
 
oldmikew said:
Interesting that your Combat cam is ok . Among the the problems associated with the engine , camshaft wear was not one..


Not sure who told you that but my Combat cam wore out at around 30K miles, even though I'd had it Tuffrided at the same place where Norton were having theirs done, at 4K miles. I have a friend who had similar happen. So it was a problem.

Ian
 
Hi oldmikew.
I actually do not know what cam type is in my bike but all the lobes are fine whatever it is. I know this from examination of the lobes and follower stellite when the engine was apart recently. If it was changed in the nine years prior to my ownership, who knows? Personally, I believe it is an ordinary one but if the weather here is ever unrideable for long enough I will sit in the shed and assess it. :D
Ta.
 
Nortoniggy said:
oldmikew said:
Interesting that your Combat cam is ok . Among the the problems associated with the engine , camshaft wear was not one..


Not sure who told you that but my Combat cam wore out at around 30K miles, even though I'd had it Tuffrided at the same place where Norton were having theirs done, at 4K miles. I have a friend who had similar happen. So it was a problem.

Ian

Ian Who told me? The usual suspects .. the 72 engines were well known for main bearing failure at low mileages. Given the kind of profile it has and that presumably it had survived a bearing failure then 30k is not too bad. Not acceptable in a standard
over the counter motorbike though but not picked up as a fault in the rumour mills at the time.However do remember reading there was a problem with some 850 cams. Perhaps your replacement cam was Tuftrided then? 4k is terrible . I had a similar experiance with a Spitfire cam I fitted to Rocket in the 60s.
Spoke to a bloke at Piper cams at one of the shows in the earlyb70s and was told one should never let a new cam idle or run below 2000rpm . Had been guilty on both accounts. Tuftriding is very thin , I note the PW3 cam is chilled iron . But many factors wil contribute to premature cam wear
 
I didn't explain very well. I had the motor apart at 4K miles to replace the failed main bearings. It was then that I had my original cam Tuftrided as I heard the rumours about camshaft failure and that the factory were now having that done. I live not far from Wolverhampton where Norton were at the time and managed to find out from a friend of a friend where they were having them Tuftrided. The place ran a night shift so I went round there, cam in hand, one evening and one of the guys there put it through with the others being done and charged me £1. Those were the days.

Ian
 
Nortoniggy said:
Those were the days.

Ian

Indeed they were ! In fact still on the subject of soft cams , bought a 4s cam in the late 70s , have never fitted it as I suspect
it was not properly hardened. Rather than go through the fag of getting it tested and rehardened , be easier and probably
cheaper to fit a PW3
 
These are not easy to acqire at short notice but coupled with 105 needle jets and flat top spray nozzles should be the last items needed to bring the A:FR between 12:1 and 13.5:1 throughout the entire throttle range.
Ta.
 
Feedback updates re AMAL Mk1 carbys. Let me know if you have more...
 
An alternate method of manually/visually synchronising the throttle slides opening with aircleaner in situ.
Note: balance beam (movement amplifier) not shown.
Ta.
 
needing said:
Feedback updates re AMAL Mk1 carbys. Let me know if you have more...

Re that Difficult to keep outside clean.

CRC CarbRClean or similar aerosol carburettor cleaner is very effective at keeping carbs clean.
Just spray it on, and the deposits wash away.
Smells sweet/evil, may not be available everywhere ?
Doesn't seem to affect paint, not so sure about contact with rubber though.
 
To the person that provided the original feedback that AMAL Mk 1 carbys were difficult to keep clean:
Beware using "Clean-R-Carb™ Carburetor Cleaner" and utilise all precautions recommended in the MSDS (link below) for this product, especially be aware of page 10:
"...US. California Proposition 65 WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm..."

Grubby carbys may be the preferred option!
Ta.

Material Safety Data Sheet at:
http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/5079.PDF
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top