Introduction and front brake question

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kwoody51

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I was gifted a great Norton by my Uncle who knew I'd enjoy it and was moving and didn't want to take it with. Much thanks to him!!!!

It's a 73, 750. It's got a single mikuni carb and electronic ignition. I was able to put ~1000 miles on the bike this last summer and it's a lot of fun! I've got a sportbike, 02 Aprilia Mille R, so this was a nice change of pace. It was fun learning the left shift and right brake, I will say I messed up a couple downshifts looking for the brake :)

Got a couple of questions that will lead me into my winter projects. The front brakes had some strange behavior. They would seem to stop fine most of the time, but when squeezed a little harder than normal they would almost lock up. Meaning that you would go from a nice gradual amount of slowing to a much greater amount of slowing accompanied by a very loud squeal. It was like you had twice the braking power in an instant all with the same amount of lever pressure.

I haven't gone into the front drum yet so I have no findings to report but thought you all might be able to give me couple of things to look for. I'm well versed in newer bikes, having many sportbike and MX bikes but never have I dealt with anything older than '96, so I know I'm up for some learnings :)

The bike had been serviced by Wheels unlimited in Rochester, MN, who I've heard are very good so I feel I've got a nice solid bike to work from. I think it just needs a little TLC after sitting unridden for a few years.

Here's some photos
Introduction and front brake question

Introduction and front brake question

Introduction and front brake question

Introduction and front brake question
 
You do want to fix that soon as can. I crashed a friends '71 drum brake that took a lot of effort to get started then would increase grab, this happened when I was a tiny bit leaned almost straight going 30 when increase grab hit on top of unseen grit layer and instant dumped us into the grass almost head long into big oak tree. If going 2-3 mph about to stop and brake while on a bit of pebbles it can snatch front out in an instant. Do not brake while leaned or turned any till fixed.
Brake issue advice should follow form listee's soon.

Steve 'hobot' Shiver , NW. Arkansas Ozarks.
 
The cable may need lubrication but it's probably best to replace it. You can check cable action by removing it from the brake arm on the brake backing plate, it should operate very smoothly without any drag. You can also try to operate the drum with the brake arm, that should also operate smoothly but require some effort, it should snap back when you release it.

Jean
 
looks like a mk5 750 but is it a hirider to stll have a front drum brake?
 
possm said:
looks like a mk5 750 but is it a hirider to stll have a front drum brake?
Click to expand...

It's also got the Hi-Rider headlamp.
 
Lucky guy, a very nice gift from what must now be your fave Uncle!
Sounds like the Twin shoes are not working together, you need to strip it (easy Job) and first clean it all out. Check the action of the shoes when pulled, they should both bite at the same time, adjustment is by the rod linking the two arms.
Chances are one is ahead of the other hence the braking action at first then the second shoe comes into play and locks the front end.
BIg learning curve ahead but well worth it :D
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'll have to dig into it soon and take a look at all the things mentioned. I've got a set of AM 26's on the way so I'll have a peak when I change out the tires.

On a similar note, is there a reputable location that supplies parts at reasonable prices? I've found cheap britts, andover, and colorado Norton. Just wondering if there are other spots people have that they like to get parts from.

I'm going to need a new ignition as well so I'd like to get that on order as well. Currently the ignition had to be jumpered to start the bike. Apparently one of the contact was bad so when you turned the key it didn't realize it. Boy did I kick for a a good 30 minutes before I realized what was going on. Couple jumper wires later and she fired up 3rd kick.
 
If you read thru many threads, Tri spark is the way to go. Congrats on the aquisition. Free will eventually = $10,000.00!!!!
 
Most all of the suppliers are reputable. Stay away from a guy with the initials Marshall Hagy in Chicago however, he is on line too with various names. Chicago is the operative word here. Old Britts, Walridge, Fair Spares, RGM, Burton Bits, Eurotrash Jambalaya, Domiracer, Commando Specialties, Mick Hemmings, Norvil, Rabers, British Only to mention a few. You will find the parts from the UK usually more reasonably priced even with shipping if you are in US. However check around. You can get nearly anything you want, but nothing is cheap.

Dave
69S
 
Sweet! Your uncle didn't even trash it first like many do! What was he thinkin?

Get yerself a manual, study the parts breakdowns at Old Britts and/or get yourself a parts book. Ask lots of stupid questions. Enjoy. That's what I do anyway.

It shouldn't cost you a lot of money to go through the bike and take care of existing maintenance issues. Where you can really start spending money is on buying parts to change the look or for performance upgrades. You have a nice looking bike there.
Russ
 
One more thing, those forward foot pegs are prone to pinching the down tubes on the frame. I would lose them, but make sure you don't clamp them down. If the tubes are already pinched you will eventually want to repair that area, just don't make it worse than it is!
 
850cmndo said:
Wisconsin plate. That where you are?
Click to expand...

I live in Mound, MN which is on the west side of Minnetonka. My uncle lived in WI, hence the plate. I see you are in the cities. Is there a local Norton club?

I plan to lose the highway pegs, just haven't gotten around to it, tool are too damn cold right now :)

I do have a manual as well, not super well layed out though so the parts breakdowns will be helpful.

Looking through the receipts it's had $1000+ in repairs/ upgrades prior to my Uncle storing it. The tranny was rebuild recently, electronic ignition added, and single carb added. I really don't have too much desire to alter the look, other than maybe a differnt tail light and maybe different bars. As for performance, I've got a 120+ HP sportbike so probably will keep this "stock" from a performance perspective. I may look to improve reliability so may look to an o-ring chain or belt coversion.... which I see are both $500+ :shock:
 
bwolfie said:
If you read thru many threads, Tri spark is the way to go. Congrats on the aquisition. Free will eventually = $10,000.00!!!!
Click to expand...

I should have said ignition switch was bad and needed to be jumpered. The bike already has digital ignition.
 
I wouldn't be surpised to see rust in the drum that is making the sudden lock up happen. Had a similar situation several years ago on a Matchless G80CS that I sold to a friend. We both thought it would be a good idea to pull the drum apart due to this type of behavior. That didn't happen (soon enough), and the wheel locked, he went down, and in the process, it broke the front brake plate. Upon inspection, the drum had severe rust in just part of the surface, not evenly, probably just from sitting, and enough rust on the springs to slow the shoes down from returning correctly. This was a barn find that hadn't run in a while, and you know how it goes. Once he had it going, he had to take it out for a spin, and....

Good luck with the new bike. Sounds like a jewel. And a jewel of a deal.

I just re-read your post, and didn't realize you put 1000 miles on it last year. So maybe rust from sitting isn't an issue. I'm sure once you're in there, it will be easy to see the problem.
 
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